eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

I'm getting to ready to put my heads back on my motor soon-I was going to use stock head bolts but now I'm think maybe the ARP's are the way too go. There is a huge difference in price(ARP heads studs versus GM head bolts)but a payoff in convenience. The Studs will save time for future head jobs as you don't have to clean out all the bolt holes. Also I have the ARP crank bolt-I have yet to use it BUT I just read an article last night in HOTROD that stated the factory T/Y crank bolt is notorious for coming loose even with blue locktite? I personally have never seen mine come loose. Also I'm a little weary about the torque specs and the retorquing of the head bolts but Cometic told me the heads need to be torqued only once. This probably is not going to be the last time the heads on my car will be changed-If I don't make the power I want I'll be switching heads again. Let me know what you guys think or suggest-thanks!

technical

FWIW, I wouldn't suspect the threads in the block to withstand more than a couple head swaps. Studs now, or Heli-Coil later.

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

That's a very good point!

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I just put ARP head studs on mine; they're very nice. Even though the threaded holes in the block had only been used once, I still had to re-thread a couple of them, and chase the rest to make them feel smooth. It's the only way to go IMO.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

ARP. the time it saves pulling the heads is worh the price alone, i had to pull my heads about two weeks ago and i couldnt believe how simple it was. i've got the full line of ARP studs/bolts on my motor.

Unaffliated Racing

iTrader: (15)

Just for info...the factory crank bolt is not torque to yield. It only get torqued to like 30 ft/lbs after you use the old one to like 230 ft/lbs. Just because you need to replace it doen't mean it's T/Y. I've used the same bolt numerous times. You don't make the new bolt yield(strech) when you put it in.

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Thank guys-I'm leaning more and more toward the ARP's. Do you guys know if the heads can be removed and installed with the studs in place on a C5? Looking at it with the heds off right now it seems like there should be no problem.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I would say yes, since you can do that on an fbody; the C5 should be even easier.

technical

It's difficult to understand exactly what you are trying to say...BUT
If you think any bolt doesn't stretch when torqued down, you're wrong.
And 30ft/lbs for a bolt the size of the LS1 crank bolt is, relatively speaking, "hand tight."

And FWIW, the factory crank bolt is TTY. You're supposed to *install* the balancer first whether you use the old bolt or an appropriate install tool. Then you proceed with the correct torque procedure of the crank bolt...30 ft/lbs + 240 degrees. With an ARP crank bolt -- 250ft/lbs. (numbers may be slightly off)

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for all the input guys-i will be going with the ARP's.