Help needed ASAP *cam swap*
03-12-2005, 04:06 PM
#1
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Help needed ASAP *cam swap* OK, off to a shitty start so far heh.
Car is up on the stands, and Im about to drain the radiator. However, that DAMN petcock valve wont budge. Any tips or suggestions? Also, 1/2 of the damn "****" that you grip onto decided to break off
Please help asap.
Thnks,
Ryan
Car is up on the stands, and Im about to drain the radiator. However, that DAMN petcock valve wont budge. Any tips or suggestions? Also, 1/2 of the damn "****" that you grip onto decided to break off
Please help asap.
Thnks,
Ryan
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03-13-2005, 12:32 AM
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once you get to the oil tube, please stick a wash cloth or something in the oil pan to catch the nut when (not if, trust me) it falls. would have saved me ~5 hours
03-13-2005, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by LSONE
once you get to the oil tube, please stick a wash cloth or something in the oil pan to catch the nut when (not if, trust me) it falls. would have saved me ~5 hours
Little trick I do is put some safety wire on the bolt after I undo it a few threads, wrap it around and twist it like a bag tie. It won't fall in the oil pan I guarantee you...I still put a rag in there anyway though
Dan
03-13-2005, 01:06 AM
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Few tips iv got from doing my cam swap. I am just about to bolt everything back up.
1) grab a pen magnet when you are loosening the pickuptube bolt and just stick the magnet on the end of the bolt.
2) when putting the new oil pump back on, stick a screwdriver between the pickup tube and the main caps and pry it towards you. i spent about 30 min tryin not to pinch the o-ring and eventually figured out to use the screwdriver. (i had the oil pump apart b/c i had just got done porting it and was centering it on the crank. so i could actually see how the o-ring was getting pinched.
1) grab a pen magnet when you are loosening the pickuptube bolt and just stick the magnet on the end of the bolt.
2) when putting the new oil pump back on, stick a screwdriver between the pickup tube and the main caps and pry it towards you. i spent about 30 min tryin not to pinch the o-ring and eventually figured out to use the screwdriver. (i had the oil pump apart b/c i had just got done porting it and was centering it on the crank. so i could actually see how the o-ring was getting pinched.
03-13-2005, 11:14 AM
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My tips:
1. Get an expandable pen magnet. You'll use it a gazillion times!
2. Get ready for a fluids (coolant, oil, PS fluid) mess. Oil Dry and a couple of old blankets will keep things clean.
3. Label everything. Put each set of hardware (e.g. the timing cover bolts, intake bolts, etc...) in its own baggy and place a piece of paper in it with it's name. It makes re-assembly so much easier.
4. Get a set of metric "ratchet" wrenches. You know, the kind that you put over the nut or bolt and ratchet back and forth.
5. I don't know your setup, but if you are running tight compression (i.e. had the heads milled), check PTV clearance. Make sure the cam matches the cam card by degreeing it (even if you use a non-adjustable timing gear, you still want to check).
6. Learn as much as you can beforehand about, PTV clearance, valvetrain geometry, preload, etc. It's better to have this knowledge BEFORE you put it back together than to find out afterwards, you may have screwed something up.
7. Since you're a newbie (like I was), the chances of you making a mistake are pretty good. Get the ARP head studs in case you have to take the heads back off again. The cost of the studs is roughly the same as two sets of GM head bolts.
8. Take your time. Don't do any shortcuts because they will always bite you in the a**. You will run into a lot of small headaches. There's a guy on here now having a hard time getting the crank pulley off. You will run into these kind of things too, so be calm, take your time and attack each one with some thought.
Good Luck!
1. Get an expandable pen magnet. You'll use it a gazillion times!
2. Get ready for a fluids (coolant, oil, PS fluid) mess. Oil Dry and a couple of old blankets will keep things clean.
3. Label everything. Put each set of hardware (e.g. the timing cover bolts, intake bolts, etc...) in its own baggy and place a piece of paper in it with it's name. It makes re-assembly so much easier.
4. Get a set of metric "ratchet" wrenches. You know, the kind that you put over the nut or bolt and ratchet back and forth.
5. I don't know your setup, but if you are running tight compression (i.e. had the heads milled), check PTV clearance. Make sure the cam matches the cam card by degreeing it (even if you use a non-adjustable timing gear, you still want to check).
6. Learn as much as you can beforehand about, PTV clearance, valvetrain geometry, preload, etc. It's better to have this knowledge BEFORE you put it back together than to find out afterwards, you may have screwed something up.
7. Since you're a newbie (like I was), the chances of you making a mistake are pretty good. Get the ARP head studs in case you have to take the heads back off again. The cost of the studs is roughly the same as two sets of GM head bolts.
8. Take your time. Don't do any shortcuts because they will always bite you in the a**. You will run into a lot of small headaches. There's a guy on here now having a hard time getting the crank pulley off. You will run into these kind of things too, so be calm, take your time and attack each one with some thought.
Good Luck!
03-13-2005, 12:49 PM
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Well, Ive got a guy coming over whos done the swap himself 5 times, so Im not THAT worried. But thanks for all of the great tips guys! ill throw up a short vid or two once its in.
Ryan
Ryan
...I think I've got everything else 