i hate to say this after being on this site so long
03-14-2005, 02:22 PM
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i hate to say this after being on this site so long but it looks like I stripped the crank 
i jammed a piece of metal in the flywheel so it could not spin then had someone turn the crank and boom. the crank bolt spins but the flywheel doesnt move. i dont know how the hell it happened either. i always use a longer bolt to start the pulley install. so i ordered a tap to see if i can clean up the remaining threads to hopefulley catch a few threads. i dont know if its gonna work or not
i jammed a piece of metal in the flywheel so it could not spin then had someone turn the crank and boom. the crank bolt spins but the flywheel doesnt move. i dont know how the hell it happened either. i always use a longer bolt to start the pulley install. so i ordered a tap to see if i can clean up the remaining threads to hopefulley catch a few threads. i dont know if its gonna work or not 
03-14-2005, 02:43 PM
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damn that sucks man. if ya have to pull the crank you might as well buy one thats forged....with a longer stroke 
yea....i am still hoping i avoid any of those big "oops" events.....sounds like you were takin your time and payin attention and still just went. ls6 crank cryo treated if you can't go 383!
yea....i am still hoping i avoid any of those big "oops" events.....sounds like you were takin your time and payin attention and still just went. ls6 crank cryo treated if you can't go 383!
03-14-2005, 03:07 PM
#3
You might look into an aftermarket ARP crank bolt....I THINK its a little longer than stock and might give you enough clean threads to be an OK deal. I'm not sure how many threads you pulled out but I'm thinking it cant be that many or the dampner would have started pulling itself on the crank snout versus stripping the threads.
Good luck...
Good luck...
03-14-2005, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
You might look into an aftermarket ARP crank bolt....I THINK its a little longer than stock and might give you enough clean threads to be an OK deal. I'm not sure how many threads you pulled out but I'm thinking it cant be that many or the dampner would have started pulling itself on the crank snout versus stripping the threads.
Good luck...
Good luck...
03-14-2005, 04:08 PM
#7
Sorry about your misfortune but that's what happens when people get lazy.
I always use my Kent Moore flywheel locking tool ($36.00) and I use a 2' breaker bar to break the crank bolt loose.
A little elbow grease never hurt anybody.
A little hiccup like this can turn into big $$$ repair bill.
I hope it works out for you without a huge repair cost.
Good luck.
I always use my Kent Moore flywheel locking tool ($36.00) and I use a 2' breaker bar to break the crank bolt loose.
A little elbow grease never hurt anybody.
A little hiccup like this can turn into big $$$ repair bill.
I hope it works out for you without a huge repair cost.
Good luck.
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03-14-2005, 06:24 PM
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The ARP bolt without the washer is 1/4' longer, as measured from beneath the bolt head, than the stock bolt. With the washer it is stock length. The ARP bolt is also about 1/2' longer overall. FWIW.
03-14-2005, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by smask04C5
Take a propane torch and heat up head of bolt before you attempt removal. Additional heat softens patch lock, making removal much easier.
03-14-2005, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by DaddySS
So you stripped it putting the pulley on? How many threads got stripped?
03-15-2005, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
Are you sure the threads on the bolt didn't strip and not the crank? That's very odd to strip when the pully is 3/4 of the way on.
03-15-2005, 12:58 AM
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blaster also suggested threaded rod with a nut on the end to pull the pulley all the way on. sounds like a good idea. then just torque the nut down. or get the pulley seated and run a tap in there to clean up the threads and try an arp bolt since there a little longer. im gonna try both ways and will see. i was so close to finishing up the car its not funny if all else fails ill have to get a stroker. im sure the old lady will luv that 
if all else fails ill have to get a stroker. im sure the old lady will luv that 
03-15-2005, 12:33 PM
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How many times have you R&R'd the pulley? If it's been a few times then the longer bolt method of install is definitely what caused the thread damage especially if the pulley(s) is tight on the snout. Eg. I didn't need to hold the crank when I re-installed my pulley...it went right on with ease. Therefore there was much less strees on the threads.
03-15-2005, 01:09 PM
#19
Originally Posted by technical
How many times have you R&R'd the pulley? If it's been a few times then the longer bolt method of install is definitely what caused the thread damage especially if the pulley(s) is tight on the snout. Eg. I didn't need to hold the crank when I re-installed my pulley...it went right on with ease. Therefore there was much less strees on the threads.
Guys...there IS such a thing as a dampner installer and it it the PREFERRED method of installation....It is a high quality metal stud that screw all the way into the crank snout with fine threads on the outside and a large washer/bearing assembly with a fine thread nut that pulls the dampner on the crank with the stud fully engaged in the crankshaft for maximum protection against stripping the actual crank threads....will save you lots of aggravation and give you much better peace of mind when its time to install the dampner.
Tony M.
03-15-2005, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
That's NOT a good thing....the dampner should be a fairly tight press fit on the crank snout....Its not uncommon for the bolts to back out on LS1 motors and if that dampner works it way off at high RPM, your car will have a REAL bad day.
Guys...there IS such a thing as a dampner installer and it it the PREFERRED method of installation....It is a high quality metal stud that screw all the way into the crank snout with fine threads on the outside and a large washer/bearing assembly with a fine thread nut that pulls the dampner on the crank with the stud fully engaged in the crankshaft for maximum protection against stripping the actual crank threads....will save you lots of aggravation and give you much better peace of mind when its time to install the dampner.
Tony M.
Guys...there IS such a thing as a dampner installer and it it the PREFERRED method of installation....It is a high quality metal stud that screw all the way into the crank snout with fine threads on the outside and a large washer/bearing assembly with a fine thread nut that pulls the dampner on the crank with the stud fully engaged in the crankshaft for maximum protection against stripping the actual crank threads....will save you lots of aggravation and give you much better peace of mind when its time to install the dampner.
Tony M.