LS1INSIDE

Just like the title says The Arp Crank Bolt bottomed out for some reason and it broke inside the crank, it's the last 1/4 in. of the crank and it's way in there I already drilled the middle with a 11/64's i believe and i am using the #5 Extractor. should I drill some more to use the #6 easy out? or keep it as is, the only thing is that the extractor is still a good 1/2-3/4 in. within the snout do they sell and extension to get to the extractor and start turning it? thanks,

eddie

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

OMG .......good luck man.

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

check and seeif a 1/4 8 point socket will fit over the extractor. heat the material around the broken bolt before you try to remove

LedFut

1. remove crank
2. bring to machine shop
3. ???
4. profit

CATDIESEL

If you are going to use an easy out the bigger the better . Just dont get into the crank threads . The smaller the easy out the easier they break. And those are no fun to drill

LS1INSIDE

guess i'm gonna have to drill it out and just retap it easy out doesn't work that arp s.o.b is really stuck in there. anyone know where i can get a 29/64ths drill bit? home depot? lowes? and a m16x2.0 tap?

Eddie

Krab

iTrader: (28)

That sucks Eddie, is that on your car? What happened to it?

LS1INSIDE

yes sir, my car is in pieces right now the whole front clip is off!! and I can't get this thing off need to fix it before I head to san antonio this Friday

Eddie

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Were you using the ARP bolt to install the pulley when it broke or just tightening it down?

Cal

iTrader: (1)

You can MIG weld an extension onto the end of the extractor and try it. As mentioned before, drill it out for the biggest extractor possible. If the extractor fails, you might be able to split it with a long narrrow chisel and take it out in peices. To help with this process, try drilling out the side of the bolt with a small carbide drill bit. You could also drill out most of the bolt with a larger bit and a thin sleave to protect the crank threads. A machinist could make you a sleave that is the perfect size. Then just clean it out with a tap.

ws.6kid

this **** happened to me awhile back and my bolt had bottomed out then broken off. Luckily I had it fixed with out taking the crank out. But now I just threw a rod through the block.

Sent a PM on what I did to fix it.

Good Luck.

LS1INSIDE

that's what I did yesterday i welded up a perfectly good extractor to a perfectly good craftsman extension.. which i'm gonna go exchange!!! j/k. well i'm down to the last drill bit today which is a 29/64ths hopefully this takes care of it. luckily the hole that is drilled is centered right on. I was thinking of grinding some narrow slits onto the arp bolt to make it into a tap. think it will work?

Eddie

LS1INSIDE

I got the PM thanks alot I really appreciate it

777

iTrader: (21)

and how'd you do that

Cal

iTrader: (1)

That should work; I did it with a head bolt one time. Make the slits fairly deep and wide so there is a place for the metal chips to go.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

is this a problem with the ARP crank bolt?
not good.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

It's not a problem with the ARP bolts, it's just that they have to be tightened with less torque than the stock torque-to-yield bolt.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

hit it with the impact and stop, is what ive been told.
ive done some searching in the last few minutes, and it appears that people are using the stock TTY sequence on the ARP bolt? not posted, but seems to be implied.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

That's the impression I've gotten . . . this has happened to several people.

LS1INSIDE

DONE!!!! IT'S OUT CAR WAS ON BY 2 A.M. LAST NIGHT!!! DAMN THAT ARP BOLT WAS A bITC* TO TAKE OUT. sorry for the caps I'm just excited that I can drive my car again... 3 days without my car seemed like eternity I was getting withdrawls. i'll try to post pictures of the bolt later on.

Eddie