zracer28

iTrader: (1)

I just ordered my F14 112 LSA cam and spring/retainer/pushrod kit from Futral Motorsports. I went ahead and ordered LS6 ported oil pump and also ls2 timing chain. I am now in the process of gathering tools and parts for the installation. After hearing all of the sound clips from ls1sounds.com and ls1tech I can't wait to get the cam in.

A few questions on tools needed:
1) What is everyones favorite valve spring compressor? Where should I get it from?
2) What is the size of dowel rods that hold the lifters up? I don't feel like buying a cam installation tool since a dowl rod can be used. Or should I go the pen magnet route?
3) When using the dowel rod method do you slide the cam in with the dowel rods in there and then remove the dowel rods. (sorry this is my first cam install)
4) What size of air fitting do I need for the spark plug holes. Can I purchase this from an Autozone or Advance?


How do you think this will drive on stock tuning? I'll only be driving it on the stock tuning for about a week or two. Is this ok?

MY CAR:
99 z28 M6 - Daily driver
Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Borla Cat Back, SLP lid, K&N, !EGR, !AIR, !CAGS, Ported/Polished stock MAF, My coil relo kit. 341 rwhp, 332 rwtq
Yes I still have ls1 intake manifold and will be purchasing LS6 shortly after cam install before I get it tuned. 4.10 gears will be installed at the time of dyno tuning.

I can't wait to feel the power of the cam and the 4.10 gears. I hope I am impressed.

Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to post up some videos after I get it installed.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

I'm in the same boat as you. I've got the F14 next to me waiting to be thrown in. I'll probably do it next weekend. All I need is an LS2 timing chaing.

From what I hear, the Vinci/Crane tool is the best. Vinci is a sponsor on the board, and I just recieved my tool in the mail friday. The tool allows you to compress two valve springs at the same time, which is a big time saver. It runs about $105 bucks.

I'm also not going to purchase the JPR lifter tool. You need some 5 1/6 rod, approx 24" long.

For a write up the install, check out www.ls1howto.com (if you haven't already.)

Here's the step by step installation procedure.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

Rob

zracer28

iTrader: (1)

How long did it take you to get your F14? What valve train set up are you using?

Anyone know the size for the spark plug fitting. Where can I get the tool from?
Also will I be ok on stock tuning for two weeks or so?

BigSteele

iTrader: (17)

im stuck between the F13 and F14
Ive got almost exactly the same power mods as you and I drive the car daily.
What made you decide on the F14 vs the F13

BTW I think you'll need a 1/4" and a 5/16" rod to hold the lifters up (I think the left side hole is slightly smaller?)

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

there isnt really too much difference in the 2 cams. its a matter of preference. the f13's powerband is about 300rpms sooner. when my install was done we just spun the cam and hoped for the best.

luv2spd

iTrader: (1)

I used two 5/16" rods for mine but I grinded a flat spot along the length of both rods. If you have the flat spot at about the 10 o' clock position they slide in perfectly. You'll see what I mean if you look.

PREDATOR-Z

Use TDC for spring change. No special tool needed and it is a breeze.
Dot to Dot is TDC on # 1 and # 6 change those, then
rotate crank clockwise 90*, 8 & 5, rotate 90*, 7 & 4, rotate 90*, 3 & 2.

This is true for intake and exhaust when cyl is at TDC

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

ok so just to clarify what yo are saying predator is this: after having the front of the motor all off and you can see the chains, align them dot to dot which will be tdc for the #1 and #6 and then from there rotate every 90* as suggested? sounds goos, however still what tool is a good idea to use in order to remove the springs themsolves? you say nothing is needed what did you do?

thanks
Louie

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

You need a valve spring tool. What he is saying is that you don't necessarilly need the tool that threads into the spark plug hole. By having the piston at TDC you eliminate the need for one. #1/#6 are at TDC dot to dot. Rotate 90 #8/#5 are TDC, rotate 90 #7/#4 are at TDC, rotate 90 one last time, and #3/#2 are at TDC.

More makes a tool, but from what I've heard it's not worth buying. Buy either the Vinci tool for $105 bucks, or check the tools forum of ls1tech. There's a guy who posts up in there and makes his own tool similar to the Vinci for cheaper.

I went with the F14 on a 112LSA, Comp 921 dual springs, tit. retainers, spring seats, valve seals, and chrome-molly 7.400" pushords.

rollinna65

iTrader: (18)

get the larry tool for your valvesprings. its $40 shipped and it works like a charm. not to make the crane tool sound bad but it costs over $100. i just went ahead and saved $60+ dollars and it just took a little longer. plus you're gonna need it when you changing out the springs again. this link should work https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=valve+spring if not just go to search, tools of the trade and type in valve spring. you'll see it down there.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Half, that's the tool I was talking about. Pick it up if you want to save money. I went with the Vinci/Crane tool for ease of removal/installation. Not only now, but later when I change valve springs. It's a quality tool, black anodized, real nice piece. Just be sure to buy either one of these tools, it doesn't matter which. It's basically your preference, but either one of these works the best.