Crane Gold rocker arms 1.7's
06-22-2005, 10:40 AM
#1
Crane Gold accelerated lift rocker arms 1.7's They will be coming in probably tomorrow they are at the UPS hub at this moment. i know if i want it done right it will take like 6 hrs 
reading about all the bleed down and such. if anyone else has any advise and/or tips id greatly appreciate it.
reading about all the bleed down and such. if anyone else has any advise and/or tips id greatly appreciate it. Last edited by SVC707; 06-22-2005 at 11:19 AM.
06-22-2005, 11:19 AM
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After 0 lash is set
Set them to approx .090 preload. That is only 6, 1/4 turns. Each 1/4 turn is approx .015
I like to let the car sit for the day prior to instaling them.
Set them to approx .090 preload. That is only 6, 1/4 turns. Each 1/4 turn is approx .015
I like to let the car sit for the day prior to instaling them.
Last edited by HALLZ; 06-22-2005 at 08:25 PM.
06-22-2005, 04:37 PM
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ok, DO NOT use the method shown on the crane page. that is for gen I & II small block chevy ,motors. just went over this in another thread. DO NOT only go 6 1/4 turns either. do exactly as the instructions say.
here's the correct instructions via the vinci website.
Proper technique for adjusting VHP / Crane Roller Rocker for the LS1 / LS2 / LS6 engines. ***
here's the correct instructions via the vinci website.
Proper technique for adjusting VHP / Crane Roller Rocker for the LS1 / LS2 / LS6 engines. ***
06-22-2005, 04:42 PM
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preload is what you are doing by turning them 2 full turns. in the red dog plan, there is a misprint on the procedure where the picture of the crib sheet is. when doing the 1/4 turns, you DO NOT turn the motor one revolution. here's the correct method.
Originally Posted by vinci tech and tune page
Zero lash should be determined by carefully lifting up on the front of the rocker arm.. at the roller tip and letting the rocker fall against the valve stem. The loose motion, or lash, causes the rocker to click against the valve stem. The adjusting nut should then be adjusted clockwise, by finger, a little at a time, until the click or loose motion is just removed. Do not turn the nut any tighter for this will depress the pushrod into the lifter. When in doubt, back off the nut and repeat the procedure. When all 16 nuts have been zeroed, The engine must be rotated, from the crank pulley bolt, or with a strap wrench. I recommend rotating about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. When you check for zero lash again, you will see that some of the rockers are loose because the cam has rotated and those lifters have moved toward the base circle. Simply repeat the rocker arm lash checking and adjusting procedure again. Next rotate the engine another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Check lash and adjust again. When you no longer have any loose "clicking rockers", you are finished with step one. Please note that sometimes the engine must be rotated several times before all the loose rockers are at zero lash. Now, you will not rotate the engine again. Step two requires you to tighten the adjusting nuts on all 16 rockers 1/4 turn. Wait about 10 minutes and repeat. That is, rotate the rocker nuts another 1/4 turn. Wait 10 minutes and rotate the nuts 1/4 turn again. You must rotate the rocker nuts, in this manner a full 1 and 1/2 to 1 and 3/4 turns, so keep an accurate count of the number of times you make 1/4 turn adjustments. You must wait 10 minutes between each 1/4 turn rotation to prevent the depressed valves from contacting the pistons. When you have finished the adjustment procedure, tighten the jamb nuts by holding the adjusting nut with your wrench and tightening the jamb nut with an Allen tool. All of this is necessary to allow the “relatively weak” stock valve springs to “bleed down” the hydraulic plunger in the lifter to allow proper lifter preload adjustment. If this procedure is not followed, valves could be “hanging open” when the engine is cranked over. This could result in bent valves. We realize that this procedure seems unnecessary or “overly-complicated” at first glance; but it works and, in the long run, minimizes installation aggravation. The use of higher seat pressure springs can reduce the waiting periods from 10 minutes slightly, during rocker arm installation. If the rockers are being installed as part of a complete rebuild, we recommend adjusting lifter preload to .060 -.100.” Extensive testing has shown this preload to provide the best power and performance, as well as minimizing valve train noise. The tech department at VHP will gladly help you through this procedure if issues occur.
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06-22-2005, 05:38 PM
#10
Originally Posted by mrr23
ok, DO NOT use the method shown on the crane page. that is for gen I & II small block chevy ,motors. just went over this in another thread. DO NOT only go 6 1/4 turns either. do exactly as the instructions say.
here's the correct instructions via the vinci website.
Proper technique for adjusting VHP / Crane Roller Rocker for the LS1 / LS2 / LS6 engines. ***
here's the correct instructions via the vinci website.
Proper technique for adjusting VHP / Crane Roller Rocker for the LS1 / LS2 / LS6 engines. ***
06-22-2005, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mrr23
ok, DO NOT use the method shown on the crane page. that is for gen I & II small block chevy ,motors. just went over this in another thread. DO NOT only go 6 1/4 turns either. do exactly as the instructions say.
here's the correct instructions via the vinci website.
Proper technique for adjusting VHP / Crane Roller Rocker for the LS1 / LS2 / LS6 engines. ***
here's the correct instructions via the vinci website.
Proper technique for adjusting VHP / Crane Roller Rocker for the LS1 / LS2 / LS6 engines. ***
06-22-2005, 08:17 PM
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Zero lash should be determined by carefully lifting up on the front of the rocker arm.. at the roller tip and letting the rocker fall against the valve stem. The loose motion, or lash, causes the rocker to click against the valve stem. The adjusting nut should then be adjusted clockwise, by finger, a little at a time, until the click or loose motion is just removed. Do not turn the nut any tighter for this will depress the pushrod into the lifter. When in doubt, back off the nut and repeat the procedure. When all 16 nuts have been zeroed, The engine must be rotated, from the crank pulley bolt, or with a strap wrench. I recommend rotating about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. When you check for zero lash again, you will see that some of the rockers are loose because the cam has rotated and those lifters have moved toward the base circle. Simply repeat the rocker arm lash checking and adjusting procedure again. Next rotate the engine another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Check lash and adjust again. When you no longer have any loose "clicking rockers", you are finished with step one. Please note that sometimes the engine must be rotated several times before all the loose rockers are at zero lash. Now, you will not rotate the engine again. Step two requires you to tighten the adjusting nuts on all 16 rockers 1/4 turn. Wait about 10 minutes and repeat. That is, rotate the rocker nuts another 1/4 turn. Wait 10 minutes and rotate the nuts 1/4 turn again. You must rotate the rocker nuts, in this manner a full 1 and 1/2 to 1 and 3/4 turns, so keep an accurate count of the number of times you make 1/4 turn adjustments. You must wait 10 minutes between each 1/4 turn rotation to prevent the depressed valves from contacting the pistons. When you have finished the adjustment procedure, tighten the jamb nuts by holding the adjusting nut with your wrench and tightening the jamb nut with an Allen tool. All of this is necessary to allow the “relatively weak” stock valve springs to “bleed down” the hydraulic plunger in the lifter to allow proper lifter preload adjustment. If this procedure is not followed, valves could be “hanging open” when the engine is cranked over. This could result in bent valves. We realize that this procedure seems unnecessary or “overly-complicated” at first glance; but it works and, in the long run, minimizes installation aggravation. The use of higher seat pressure springs can reduce the waiting periods from 10 minutes slightly, during rocker arm installation. If the rockers are being installed as part of a complete rebuild, we recommend adjusting lifter preload to .060 -.100.” Extensive testing has shown this preload to provide the best power and performance, as well as minimizing valve train noise. The tech department at VHP will gladly help you through this procedure if issues occur.
or 1 and 1/2 to 1 and 3/4 full turns, making each 1/4 turn .015.
06-22-2005, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by smask04C5
Adjust two full turns, as mrr23 copied from VHP. Studs are 3/8x24, so each full turn is approximately .042
06-22-2005, 08:30 PM
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This all reminds me of a bad nightmare I had!!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=crane
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=crane
06-22-2005, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by smask04C5
total of eight quarter turns, with the last quarter turn, snug allen jam nut. this procedure places .080 preload on lifter, produces a quiet valvetrain.
When you have finished the adjustment procedure, tighten the jamb nuts by holding the adjusting nut with your wrench and tightening the jamb nut with an Allen tool
http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...20PAGE%20.HTML
Here is what I had
when I went 2 full turns I was over .120 preload. Measuring with the dial indicator had me at .12xxx (still should have been ok) with OE lifters
6 .25 turns gave me .092xx" preload.
7 .25 turns gave me .107" preload
Prior to instalation measuring the distance the polly lock moved down the std. with the caliers showed .015xx per .25 turn.
06-22-2005, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by smask04C5
had a similar situation on my wifes truck, coded p0306, found #6 intake too tight after install. VHP instructions are different than original crane procedure. i will try VHP adjustment when I install AFR heads next month
I had to replace lifters!
I was giving up on them till I talked with Vinci!