ABadMother1999

iTrader: (9)

I had a new motor put in with a .580ish lift cam, full intake, full exhaust, 4.10s, and a spec stage 2! How should I break it in? When should I take it to get dynoed? Is there a reason I should or shouldnt take it on a 2 or 3 hours drive? Help me out so I dont ruin what I just got lol!

Thanks!

conan

iTrader: (5)

When I built my new moter I started it got all the air out of the coolant then changed the oil/filter before I even drove it. Then put about 400 easy miles on it stayed under 3500 rpm's. Changed the oil again, Then slowly started to take it higher in rpm's. Heat cycle the motor a few times too.
EDIT use mineral oil to brake in then swich to synthetic after brake in if u choose.

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

Run the motor and let it go through a few heat cycles and then change the oil/filter.. Put a few hundred miles on the engine and then change the oil/filter again. Keep the rpms decently low and just cruise.. Once you get a few hundred miles on it and have changed the oil/filter you should be good to go..

ABadMother1999

iTrader: (9)

Awesome... Thanks guys! When should I take it to get dyno tuned? I am also going to Indiana Sand Dunes this weekend and I wanted to know if it would be safe to drive it there? I have an m6 so keeping the rpms down shouldnt be to hard of a problem. I am going to drive it today and then change the oil and filter. Then I am leaving about 9am tomorrow and its about a 2 hour drive from my house. Any reason I shouldnt take it with me? Is it safe to take without being dyno tuned yet? Any more help and advice would be very helpful! Thanks again everyone!

PREDATOR-Z

Just don't get excited and run it hard. Take it easy, very easy and you'll be fine.
As long as you stay stoich and not WOT.

equandt

iTrader: (2)

I would change the engine oil and filter after the first 20 minutes of run time. This will flush out any cam lube or initial break in contaminates. Then maintain your normal oil change intervals.

Tune it ASAP!

I would put the rear end through several complete heat cycles of gentle driving to let the gear teeth develop a nice pattern. Once you have put an easy 500 ish miles on the new gears, change the gear oil. I like Redline 75w90.

You are then good to go. Rip it at will.

Good luck.

ABadMother1999

iTrader: (9)

Alright... Keep the suggestions coming...

So far this is my plan of action... Let it run to operating temps when I get it, take it for a lil drive about 20 miles. Come home and change the oil (after it cools down).

Then I am waking up at like 6a, and going to the dunes (about a 2 hour drive), I am going to take it easy and not go over 3500-4000rpms. When I get home Monday I think I am taking it to speed inc. I am going to have them change the oil and dyno tune it!

How does this all sound? Any other tips, advice, help, anything...? Thanks again guys and keep everything coming!

TAQuickness

iTrader: (28)

I put mine through 10 heat cycles (full operating temp, let it cool to ambeint), changed the oil, let 'er rip, dyno tuned, let 'er rip, 500 miles later changed the oil to synthetic.

When I did the rear, I took it nice and easy for 500 miles, changed the oil, then let 'er rip.

No problems what so ever.

S1LV3R

iTrader: (5)

Not starting anything. Just a question. What's the difference in someone getting a new car off the lot and hammering on it from the moment you get it and the new motor he installed? Lets even say a newly rebuilt stock motor. Just always wondered this. I had a '98 SS and hammered on it on the way home from the dealership. So, yes, I'm guilty of this. No flames please just some input. Sorry about hijacking the thread.

Larry

PREDATOR-Z

Well I think factory motors are run before install (I could be wrong), but 1000 miles is recommended as break in.
Also if anything goes wrong, the warranty takes care of it (but they can find missbehavior from pcm.)

ABadMother1999

iTrader: (9)

I have heard heat cycles are BS but hey, I'd rather play it safe and do the BS heat cycles and not rip on my car and possibly blow it up! Thanks for all the help guys! I hope all goes well and nothing gets messed up!

PREDATOR-Z

It is NOT BS, even after cycling, you always should reach normal operating temps before you beat on it (especially in cold weather). aftermarket springs are much more brittle than stock.