What Rods and Crank for a Darton Sleeved 4.125" Block?
#1
What Rods and Crank for a Darton Sleeved 4.125" Block?
I am looking for rods and crank for a 427 motor. First of all, I found an Eagle 4" crank at SDPC, but I am not sure if it is the right one. The part number doesn't match the part# from other places. Its close, just some extra zeros. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct crank? It says it comes with a reluctor ring which I assume I need. Here is the link to it: http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/4191...Crankshaft.htm
As for the rods, HPE said that the Darton sleeves might need to be ground down to clear the rods, since they are longer than the OEM sleeves. My question is, will I-beam rods provide enough clearence? From what I can see they look a little thinner than the H-beam style rods like Eagle, Scat, and CompStar.
Thanks for the help!
As for the rods, HPE said that the Darton sleeves might need to be ground down to clear the rods, since they are longer than the OEM sleeves. My question is, will I-beam rods provide enough clearence? From what I can see they look a little thinner than the H-beam style rods like Eagle, Scat, and CompStar.
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by Ferocity02; 08-31-2005 at 02:20 PM.
#2
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I personally kept the stock crank, nitrided it, and used Eagle 6.300" rods......couldn't be happier (though it's 388CIs, not 427).....
IF I had wanted to go 427 (which I did look at but just really wanted the big bore/short stroke), I would have used an Eagle 4" crank with Eagle 6.125" rods (Eagle stuff has gone to the 800-1000rwhp range in the Stang world....).......it really depends on how much HP you are looking for....
IF I had wanted to go 427 (which I did look at but just really wanted the big bore/short stroke), I would have used an Eagle 4" crank with Eagle 6.125" rods (Eagle stuff has gone to the 800-1000rwhp range in the Stang world....).......it really depends on how much HP you are looking for....
#3
Ok, I actually specified which crank I was planning on getting, I realized that I didn't put that in the post. Anyways, I am looking at the Eagle 4" crank, but am not sure if that is the right one at SDPC, I can only assume it is.
As for the rods I need some that will clear the sleeves. Pretty much any rod on the market will suffice for my power goals, except for the stockers and maybe the Scat I-beams.
As for the rods I need some that will clear the sleeves. Pretty much any rod on the market will suffice for my power goals, except for the stockers and maybe the Scat I-beams.
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I have a Sonny Bryant 4" crank in perfect condition if you're interested, it was just checked out by SDPC. As I'm sure you know, Bryant cranks are about as top of the line as you can get (it was $4500 new). It is so damn impressive it's a shame to hide it in an engine!
I've never advertised it but decided today I'm going to sell it. If you are interested send me a PM.
I've never advertised it but decided today I'm going to sell it. If you are interested send me a PM.
#6
I believe he specializes in race motors. If I recall some of the mid west sprint motors that run around $40k.
Anyway, you need decide budget and use. Street use and limited budget, an Eagle kit is probably fine. Serious racing? I would call Callies, Crower, etc about a custom bottom end.
They will build it to your specs. A 4.125 block could be a 356 to a 441 depending on stroke. If you are getting a new crank, rods, and pistons anyway,they will get you what you need for your application and balance it better than you can. If you ask, you can get a no-holes balance. Since they are making the crank, when they balance it, it is rough cut to the very close to the right balance for your rotating assembly.
If you are going that big, you also need to consider the heads. Chevy went very big on the heads for their 427. My guess is a lot of the non-FI big cube motors run out of breath.
Anyway, you need decide budget and use. Street use and limited budget, an Eagle kit is probably fine. Serious racing? I would call Callies, Crower, etc about a custom bottom end.
They will build it to your specs. A 4.125 block could be a 356 to a 441 depending on stroke. If you are getting a new crank, rods, and pistons anyway,they will get you what you need for your application and balance it better than you can. If you ask, you can get a no-holes balance. Since they are making the crank, when they balance it, it is rough cut to the very close to the right balance for your rotating assembly.
If you are going that big, you also need to consider the heads. Chevy went very big on the heads for their 427. My guess is a lot of the non-FI big cube motors run out of breath.
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#12
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Stroker rods
The Lunati billet connecting rods will clear the sleeves with room to spare without any grinding with a 4" stroke.
Steve
Steve
Originally Posted by Ferocity02
I am looking for rods and crank for a 427 motor. First of all, I found an Eagle 4" crank at SDPC, but I am not sure if it is the right one. The part number doesn't match the part# from other places. Its close, just some extra zeros. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct crank? It says it comes with a reluctor ring which I assume I need. Here is the link to it: http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/4191...Crankshaft.htm
As for the rods, HPE said that the Darton sleeves might need to be ground down to clear the rods, since they are longer than the OEM sleeves. My question is, will I-beam rods provide enough clearence? From what I can see they look a little thinner than the H-beam style rods like Eagle, Scat, and CompStar.
Thanks for the help!
As for the rods, HPE said that the Darton sleeves might need to be ground down to clear the rods, since they are longer than the OEM sleeves. My question is, will I-beam rods provide enough clearence? From what I can see they look a little thinner than the H-beam style rods like Eagle, Scat, and CompStar.
Thanks for the help!
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Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
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760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
#13
Thanks for the help guys...
Now the final question that needs answering... is this crank from SDPC the right one for my application? It is in the LS1/LS6 section, but the part number on the crank does not quite match that of other vendors for the same item. Again, here's the link... http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/4191...Crankshaft.htm
Thanks!
Now the final question that needs answering... is this crank from SDPC the right one for my application? It is in the LS1/LS6 section, but the part number on the crank does not quite match that of other vendors for the same item. Again, here's the link... http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/4191...Crankshaft.htm
Thanks!
Last edited by Ferocity02; 08-31-2005 at 10:14 PM.
#14
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Thanks for the help guys...
Now the final question that needs answering... is this crank from SDPC the right one for my application? It is in the LS1/LS6 section, but the part number on the crank does not quite match that of other vendors for the same item. Again, here's the link... http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/419...-Crankshaft.htm
Thanks!
Now the final question that needs answering... is this crank from SDPC the right one for my application? It is in the LS1/LS6 section, but the part number on the crank does not quite match that of other vendors for the same item. Again, here's the link... http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/419...-Crankshaft.htm
Thanks!
#15
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
Although your link dosen't work, I went to the site and looked under LS-1 cranks. The eagle is on the page with the Callies and Lunati. SDPC had the same part # as thunder racing, so I would guess that it is the right one.
I didnt think the p/n was the same, maybe I misread. I'd imagine it would work, why else would they put it in the LS1 section. It sure seems awfully cheap, thats the main reason I was concerned.
#16
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Fixed the link.
I didnt think the p/n was the same, maybe I misread. I'd imagine it would work, why else would they put it in the LS1 section. It sure seems awfully cheap, thats the main reason I was concerned.
I didnt think the p/n was the same, maybe I misread. I'd imagine it would work, why else would they put it in the LS1 section. It sure seems awfully cheap, thats the main reason I was concerned.