Is this a rear main seal leak? (pics w/ trans removed)
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Is this a rear main seal leak? (pics w/ trans removed)
looks wet just on the lower part, some bolts on the cover are wet, but nothing at the cover seal. I'm guessing rear main seal and maybe where the oil pan bolts up, no RTV was used where the oil pan meets the cover, so I"m guessing that's a problem.
How would I know if it was a oil galley plug leak? I see the plug in there but nothing around the pilot bearing appears wet with oil.
This is a motor that was just rebuilt top and bottom btw.
How would I know if it was a oil galley plug leak? I see the plug in there but nothing around the pilot bearing appears wet with oil.
This is a motor that was just rebuilt top and bottom btw.
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Originally Posted by nytoy
looks wet just on the lower part, some bolts on the cover are wet, but nothing at the cover seal. I'm guessing rear main seal and maybe where the oil pan bolts up, no RTV was used where the oil pan meets the cover, so I"m guessing that's a problem.
How would I know if it was a oil galley plug leak? I see the plug in there but nothing around the pilot bearing appears wet with oil.
This is a motor that was just rebuilt top and bottom btw.
How would I know if it was a oil galley plug leak? I see the plug in there but nothing around the pilot bearing appears wet with oil.
This is a motor that was just rebuilt top and bottom btw.
No RTV in the corners where the pan meets the front or rear cover is a problem...definately will leak. Could be your crank seal, have it replaced to be sure. Does the seal look like it is put in straight?? Hard to tell from the pics. It has a bi-directional lip,one lip points toward the engine and the other points toward the transmission. If it is put in crooked...even slightly it will leak. I hope you find the culprit, best of luck to you.
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SS1875 is right about all of the above silicone and the rear seal (Witch is hard to install strait with out the correct tool.) I would be leaning towards the rear seal. The cover is supposed to be installed first without the seal and as level as possibile against the bottom of the block they even have a tool for that LOL! Then the seal is supposed to be pressed in with a tool that screws into the crank and pushes it on strait etc... I didn't do it this way but once you understand how the seal and cover are supposed to work you can do it with out the tools and have a leak free install. Good luck!
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Yep, I just had this motor rebuilt, the builder had trouble with the crank seal, and it almost looks like he put the cover seal on backwards because you can see part of the gasket sticking out on the top drivers side. Anyone else?
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Yes you can the tool just makes it hard to messup. I would drop the pan a little and remover the cover. Install the new seal carefully and as even as possible I eyeballed it. Use the little plastic retainer that comes with the seal to help you get it over the crank. You might have to use a small flat blade screw driver to make sure everything is on correctly (Be sure not to tear the seal!) once it is on there start all the bolts on the cover don't tighten them down all the way yet. place some silicone on each of the corners where the cover meets the oil pan (Don't get carried away with the silicone as it can hurt you as well and help you.) Then make sure the corners of the cover are as flush as possible with the block and then tighten down all the cover bolts and tighen up the oil pan again should be ok. Someone else might give you some other pointers, but this should get you there.Good luck.