99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

How large can I go before my LS6 intake and 1 3/4" to 3" headers hold me back power wise? I am starting with an LS1 block and I still havent figured out if I want to stay at the 346 CI or go bigger. I want to go as big as possibly without worrying about my intake and headers holding me back!

Any ideas? Im looking to spend 6 grand or less.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

There's no set size or power level when it hits a brick wall. I would just go as big as you want/can afford and not worry about the headers. You'll still make good power and you can always free up a little more with the bigger headers in the future.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

So whats the easiest way to make a 383 using a stock LS1? Bore and resleeve?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

383 would be to bore out to 3.905 and use a 4" crank. Practically all the additional cubes come from increasing the stroke.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

an all bore 382 ( stock stroke, 4 inch bore ) have proven to make alot more power then a 383 stroker.. if resleeving the block ( probably more costly ) was your plan.. then I'd take the bore to at least 4.1.. you are doing it, mine as well. I think the CI will be in the 390's that way, and should be a real screamer too.

krexken

Judging by the posts I've read on the percentage of sleeved motors that have leaked, I'm gonna have to stay away from them. I'm not into pulling my motor to get it fixed even if the sleeve repair is gonna be warranteed. Just too much work. I agree though, bigger bore is the way to go if you can afford to do it. I also wouldn't shy away from more stroke though, especially if I didn't plan on putting a bunch of miles on it.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

So, it sounds like the way to go would be to bore it out to 3.905(I assume no sleeves are needed) and then put a 4" crank it. Is the extra $1000 for a 4" crank worth it? What should I expect as an increase in HP from a stock forged 346 H/C to a forged 383 stroker?

98_Formula

iTrader: (15)

so the best thing money wise would prolly be to just get the 4" crank, and keep the rest stock sized and just replace iwth forged stuff... ?

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

Well if you don't opt for the stroker crank then you basically have a 347, one whole whopping inch more displacement than what you started with. You could probably get a LS2 short block for what you'd pay building a 383.

Nate

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Im torn....Maybe just to keep it easy I should just stay with the stock LS1 block and put forged internals in it, AFR heads, and a nice big cam.

'02 SLP#686

iTrader: (1)

Stock LS1 can only be bored .060 over.
I thought about re-sleeving - $150 a hole (roughly)

I currently have a 3.905 JE piston, balanced stock rods/crank and ARPs. Should easily handle 600HP... it has been proven.

Who makes your 237/242??? Very curious... I have a similar cam

jrp

iTrader: (16)

the stock ls1 can not be bored in the traditional sense. the iron liners are only .060 thick

oh, and there is nothing wrong with a sleeved motor if installed properly. the darton MID wet sleeves will got to 4.200.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

Its just the MS3. Nothing special. Actual, I like the cam but after 1000 miles it decided to work the three retainer bolts loose and walk backwards. This is the whols reason for the rebuild. So I think this is my plan:

-Stock LS1 block bored/honed to 3.905
-Stock crank turned and balanced
-Diamond Racing 3.905" Pro-Select Piston Rings, 1.5/1.5/3.0mm
-Diamond Racing LS1 Forged Flat-Top with -2cc Valve Reliefs, 3.905" Bore, 3.622" Stroke, 6.125" Rod Length; .927 x 2.50 Wrist Pins Included
-Callies CompStar Connecting Rods, 6.125" length, 2.100" crank pin, .927 wrist pin, LS1/LS6 (Includes ARP 2000 Series Connecting Rod Bolts)
- New Main, cam, and rod bearings (not quite sure how to determine exactly which ones I need)
- FMS F14 112 Cam
- AFR 205 heads with upgraded springs
- GM Head Gaskets

Any see any issues with this? Im still trying to determine if I want to go bigger with the cam but the F14 would be the smallest I would get.