eminem1833

I have an 98 camaro with the following mods:

hooker LT headers
X-pipe
Borla two mufflers
342 gears
K&N CAI
stock torque conventer
78 fast intake
80 BBK TB
NJK sparkplug
MSD wires
241 heads stock
Trans go shift kit
B&M cooler gear
crank pully
160 thermostar
ported Mass air
hp tunner


I am looking to do a large cam soon, I daily drive my car so it has to be streetable. I would love to have a nice lope at idle, I want 400rwhp+. I am not completely against doing heads at the same time. Is there a Cam setup that will land me 450rwhp with a stock bottom end N/A and still be able to be street driven? I go to the dragway about every other weekend, I don't always run but I do if I change something up on the car.



i orderd now TR-224/224-112 LSA ( what about this cam with my mods)?

thanks aloot

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

On a stock TC? You will not get the most out of the cam at all, nor your setup until you get a TC stalled to optimize the powerband of the cam you chose. You should make your setup synergistic so that your car will work well with your setup and get the results you want! There is really no good way to do that with the stock stall rating on the stock TC. Also to keep the car idling you will be fighting your brakes at stoplights with the cams needed slightly higher idle...

EDIT: BTW our stalled/cammed (soon to be stall/heads/cam) car is my DD, and it would be unimaginably annoying to drive it every day with the stock TC...

Also a TC with a higher stall is one of the best things you can do for your A4 car, hands down, and while it may not be a dyno queen our car is plenty quick enough as is! 385/386 is not too shabby for a stalled A4, and our car will move like a rocket ship with DR's and our suspension...

GOGO

iTrader: (22)

If you want a big you will need a stall. Otherwise your car feel like poo. Check out Yank SS line of converters. They will put you in the power band you need be in with a big cam.

SSilverSSurfer

iTrader: (8)

bigger is also not always better, keep that in mind

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

Why dont you want to get a stall?? honestly, a stall will make your car faster down the track than a cam would. i thought the stall thing was total bullshit, but then i got one and im extremly impressed. its like a whole new car!
i see you already have a shift kit and tranny cooler so you can just add a stall safely.

remeber, streetablity is all opinion and how well its tuned.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Take it from me, I drove around with what your describing with that cam (minus the 3.42's) on the stock stall for a year. It was not fun, the getting in the power band took too long, the car wanted to move forward more at a stop requiring more brake pressure, also slowing down it wanted to go which again required more break pressure, warm starts absolutely suck since the stall is so tight, and the difference between that and the stock cam with the stock converter is barely noticeable, do a converter first.. trust me you dont want a car that sounds stronger than it is.

snake_charmer

Have a G5x-3 (~ 234/242 .. exact specs can be found on board) on mine with a SS3600. Car is a DD and works great once you get it tuned right. Mine idles at ~925 with no problems. Pulled 437 rwhp on my setup before teh tune was ironed out. Only thing is I have 90/90 and EWWP and have run high 10's in good weather on ET streets in my c5. Have not been back to the track since the tune has been ironed out.

But I agree with those above.. you WILL need to get a higher stall converter to get the most out of ANY cam. The SS series from yank will net you a feel that is very close to stock when tuned correctly.

eminem1833

i heared when i fixed stall, my length power will be down .

cuz i want it to street race like 700m or 1km or little more

the TC like 3200 or 3500 , the power in begging of race will be fine

but when i will go rolling like 40 or 50 to 700m/1Km it not will be with

the all power . i checked that with some dyno sheet with my friend

and when i have it , i will show us it.

----------------------------------

i wanna ur opinnion with this cam TR-224/224-112 LSA?

thanks aloot

eminem1833

this is my paint its only samply like dyno sheet

to discribe what i mean

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

What? Can you translate that?

Azrael

iTrader: (10)

With a higher stall rated Torque Converter the car will be in the powerband more consistantly, and will eliminate most of the stock TC's "dead spots". The idea of getting a larger stall is to keep the engine in that general RPM range so the car doesn't lose power during shifts and from off idle launching. Meaning the car will be faster all around. Given the same cam, the car with the higher stall rating TC will be faster period. No if's, ands, or buts. There is some loss of power from the slipping of the TC on the dyno, but the stalled car will be faster than a similar car without the TC putting out higher numbers. It is all about managing the power and getting the car in the pwerband and keeping it there. Who cares if you dyno 5 hp higher? If your car is not in the useable powerband while I am putting buslengths on you with less "power"?

Of course that is very basic, there is more to the converter than just stall rating. Also consider the STR, and the applications the converter will be used for! You really need to read more about your car before you just start throwing parts at it...

snake_charmer

You are over-analyzing and not understanding how a higher stall TC works. Trust me.. from a roll at 40 or 50 mph, my SS3600 TC hits like a freight train. With good tires I am even able to pull on bikes from time to time. Just imagine the look on a guys face on a 750 street bike when you are all of a sudden a car length in front of them. (Priceless) With a larger cam.. what this does is put you right into the power band immediately (torque wise) and then keeps you there throughout each subsequent gear. This is where you want to be... especially with a larger cam. With a stock TC, even with the stock cam, it will feel a bit sluggish until you start to climb to around 3000rpm.

Again remember this is when you go WOT that the converter is flashing you into this RPM range (this is what it is designed for). However for everyday normal driving the SS series converters feel almost like stock.

My suggestion is to find someone near you with a higher stall and take a ride with them. It is a night and day difference between the two. Once you "feel" what we are talking about you will never look back!

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

Stock Stall + Big Cam = BIG TURD!!

You can run any rearend gear you want, it's still gonna be a dog.

Go with a mild stall (between 2800-3200) and a mid 220* duration cam. The higher you go with the stall speed the more your gas mileage will suffer in a DD.

Have you ever considered a 6 speed swap? Building a DD car with a big cam and some shorter rear gears is easier and better on gas than a big cammed high stalled auto will be.

King James

iTrader: (13)

Not to mention a M6 is much better at roll racing then an A4. Generally speaking of course

eminem1833

i live in King Dom Of Bahrain in the Arab Gulf

the weather here very hot its 45-50 c degree

the TC make the gear oil hotter than normal after than i will lost gear clutches

and my trrany life will be shorter. what do u think??

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

if you have a B & M Cooler already and you add a tc, the tranny will be fine.

SVT THIS

iTrader: (27)

Getting a big cam without a big stall is ridiculous. Would you go out and buy the most powerful, expensive subwoofer on the market. I mean wall pounding, brain thumping bass. Then, run the stock amp on it. I would hope not, and if you did, you would be disappointed.

Or how about this. Go buy a wall mount movie projector, 2 reclining leather seats, a movie theater popcorn machine, and 5 of the biggest budget action movies ever made. Hook up one computer speaker as the only sound system. sit back, and enjoy.

My point is, a large stall for a large cam is absolutely necessary. The larger the cam, the higher in the RPM range the power is. Take the TRex for example. That is a big mother f'ing cam that has been proven at the track and on the dyno. However, its power doesn't start kicking in until 3500-4000rpms. I would think it is safe to say that a STOCK LS1 cam makes more power under 3500 rpms than the TRex. With a stock stalled, stock cammed LS1 versus a stock stalled, Trex cammed car my money would be on the stock cam/stall LS1 until at least the 1/8th, maybe farther.

One last thing I would think about. Adding a stall, shift kit and tranny cooler is much better for your transmission at 450rwhp and street/track races than 450rwhp and a totally untouched tranny. Either way, you'll need to buy a new one at some point.

snake_charmer

I agree with the tranny cooler and the fact you will be looking at a new tranny not long after the mods. With any higher stall converter you will want to add a a transmission cooler, especially in warmer climates and if you run the car hard. Hell, I would do it with any converter period in any climate or any situation.. cheap insurance and longer life for all parts involved. However once you get to the 390-400 rwhp mark on an auto, the tranny itself is not going to hold up long. My car had only 7500 miles when I did the first round of mods. At the time was at ~420 rwhp and tranny only lasted about 500 miles. Since then I have had a FLT Level V.. 20,000 miles later of HARD driving, no problems.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

Stock tranny and H/C cars dont mix. I blew mine up the next weekend after my build up. Now, I have the stage IV tranny which should work out just great!

Side note: Snake_Charmer.. What else did you have on your set-up to run that 10.95 et? I 'finally' got my set up done and heading to the track soon. So, just comparing set-ups. Thanks