Stampede4ever

If you had heads, cam, exhaust, intake to support High RPMs. With sending a rod through the oil pan, and living past 100,000 miles?

Thanks.

racer7088

Well the valve train will fail first but the shortblock can spin at least 7500 or more if everythings right. I'm sure if you went through the stock stuff it might even go higher but a lot of the stock failures seem to be oiling related which also does get worse with rpm. Anotherwords you might be able to zing it up there very high a few times but not for long periods.

777

iTrader: (21)

I disagree. There's no way I would feel comfortable spinning my engine up to even 7000rpms very often. You spin a stock 98 bottom end to 7500 and I highly doubt it will last.

You do realize he said stock ls1 correct? You are talking as if he was talking about a built one with better rod bolts.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Most would agree the stock rod bolts let go at 7200

pushinfreight

Stock motors can be spun to 7000-7200 on a regular basis. There are many people who are spinning to those levels and running at the track. Now I am not sure on running the stock springs to 7000 and sustaining it for more than 1/4 mile runs. The biggest thing you would need to do is make sure you have proper oil pressure, good oil and a good tune to make sure you are not starving the motor for fuel. Now are you going to get 100,000 miles of beating on the car at the track and street. Doubt it but you should get 15-20k miles out of it before the spring would need to be checked.

Stampede4ever

What mods should be done to oiling system, and what internal parts should be replace?

Thanks.

racer7088

Yes I realize that. I guess I haven't seen any LS1s fail at that RPM. Not so far at least. The engines I see go bad have spun bearings and such etc. from lack of oil or foamed oil. I have seen several guys shift back to the wrong gear and only bend valves or pushrods and they may hit 8000 rpm.

I wouldn't build an endurance engine that will be at 7000 all the time with the stock parts though but I still haven't ever seen a stock engine blow up on the dyno or track from RPM that low. At least not from the bottom end so far.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

As long as you have rod bolts at the least it will live. Ive acually thought about building a motor using some stock parts, and rods were one of em. People under estimate what these stock bottom ends are capable of.

777

iTrader: (21)

As far as I'm concerned stock bottom end uses stock rod bolts, which is why I said I didn't think it would work. However, come to think of it all the bottom end failures are from spun bearings. I always thought that was because the rod bolts though, not necassarily oil starvation. If this turns out true I would be much relieved in the fact that my 113k mile engine will live in the upper rpm range. My oil pressure is awesome. 60-65 cold idle, 45-50 hot idle. 70-75 WOT.

racer7088

777,

I agree though with you and others that the better bolts are good insurance if you are changin them anyway. The stock rods seem to be mostly alright but when they do spin a bearing it seems like they are much worse than the aftermarket rods with sometimes these oem rods even breaking in half. I'm not the biggest fan of the powdered metal stuff myself but as long as oiling keeps up they don't seem that bad.

I just don't like the stock rods in general and when and if they are fubar or way out of round from a near incident you can not really resize them the normal way but rather you have to hone the housing bores oversize and then use the special oversized OD rod bearings which do not give you really any selection at all in bearings. That' s why I hate even reusing the stockers plus 90 per cent are press fit in the pin end which is also semi ghetto and limits your piston choice as well.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Whats the weight of the stock rods anyway?