11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

After I got a little over 1K miles on my engine I put it on the dyno. The numbers were down, it made 490/500, but that was with peak power at 5500rpm (torque was good). Then it flattened out and dropped off at 6300. At that time, the engine was consuming some *serious* oil. On a friday night cruise it would go through a quart. Smoke while idling and a smoke screen at WOT that would cover the bumper in black soot and oil. Smoke puffed out the pipes between shifts. Since then I've put another 500 or so miles on it. I still get some smoke at WOT, but it's not bad, and I don't notice anything at idle. Been checking the dipstick everytime I take it out, and it looks like the oil consumption has about stopped. Was it possible that the rings were not yet seated before? Half of that initial 1K miles was a roadtrip from N.C. to N.J. I figured the rings would have been seated by then.

bichin95redta

What kind of rings are you using? What kind of oil (hope it wasn't synthetic) did you use while breaking 'er in?

I had a local speed shop build my Gen III stroker (forged rotating assembly), and the owner used Joe Gibbs engine break-in oil. It stopped puffing black smoke 5-10 minutes after initial start-up. He said once the "puffing" stopped, the rings were seated.....Diamond Pro-Race Custom forged pistons/total seal piston rings.

The break-in oil will get dumped in about another 50 miles, then, for the next 500 or so, we'll either use non-synthetic Valvoline 10/40, or straight 30 wt...haven't made up our minds yet.

I've traded e-mails with both Comp Cams, and Royal Purple....both said NOT to break in my engine with synthetic oil. I took their advice. The only thing that puzzles me, is that hi-performance, OEM oil fills are mostly synthetic (usually Mobil1 5W/30), and I never hear of ring-seating or engine break-in problems with new cars that are filled with synthetic from the factory. Go figure.....

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

I'm running Diamond Pro Select rings, and 10w30 dino oil. Done two oil changes. Will probably switch to 10w40 next time.

mr2guru

iTrader: (16)

At roughly $60/cs. I'd save it and put it on the mantle!
That stuff is expensive.

bichin95redta

Yes, it is expensive. It is specifically formulated for engine break-in, and contains additives for that purpose that are missing from "ordinary" engine oils.

PREDATOR-Z

Rings will seat in the first 20 minutes of break in.

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, but it just seemed weird to me that it took 1500 miles before it stopped inhaling so much oil.

Jed Z06

iTrader: (1)

So what oil is best for a new motor break in?

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

Sounds to me like there was a honing issue on that block. Walls may have been glazed causing the rings not to seat. In that case it could take 3,000 or more miles to seat the rings if they do indeed seat at all. I'm glad that you are reporting the oil consumption seems to have abated.

I have data from Sunnen on honing for Darton Sleeves. All Darton sleeves are made of the same ductile iron including the top fuel sleeves. I'll be happy to e-mail the info to any shop interested. Use of proper stones will also greatly speed up the honing process.

Steve

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

What oil exactly are you using?

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

I guess that could very well be the problem. I was thinking it could be a vaccum issue. I would still like to get a vaccum pump setup, but no one makes a kit for these cars. That's way out of my league to do myself.

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

Castrol GTX 10w30 dino oil. I'm going to change it again next weekend and try 10w40.