Car drivability with cam and no tune
08-30-2006, 01:22 PM
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Car drivability with cam and no tune Hey guys I just got my MS3 installed in my car but it took to long and I missed my dyno appointment. The tuner is on vacation so I am going with out a tune for a few weeks. My question is how much should I drive the car and is there really anything that I could damage by not having a tune? I know the drivability with be a little iffy but as long as I dont sit in traffic I think it will be ok. My mods are MS3 113 LSA, UD pulley, LT's, no cats, catback, haltech intake. So what do you guys think should I be good to go for a short while till my buddy comes back from vacation?
08-30-2006, 01:34 PM
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Well if it runs too rich, you can wash the rings and mess up your cylinders. another area is going WOT and being too lean where detonation will mess up things.
IMO just drive a little and check your plugs. If too black then abstain untill you tune.
I would avoid WOT until tuned.
IMO just drive a little and check your plugs. If too black then abstain untill you tune.
I would avoid WOT until tuned.
08-30-2006, 02:51 PM
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I will not be doing any WOT driving with out the tune believe me. Even if its ok I still dont know what exactly is going on A/F wise untill I tune it. Good thought on checking the plugs will do!
08-30-2006, 03:14 PM
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damn didnt really thing it would matter too much.. i installed a new ms4 on a guys car and hes been racing without a tune.. im pretty sure he hasnt checked his plugs but who knows how its running.
08-30-2006, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by pewter 01 SS
damn didnt really thing it would matter too much.. i installed a new ms4 on a guys car and hes been racing without a tune.. im pretty sure he hasnt checked his plugs but who knows how its running.
08-30-2006, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Blacked Out
Real nice
well just saying cuse the guys car has the ms4 which is not only bigger but is also on a 110 lobe so if he can drive it i think you can drive yours.. but like everyone said ( which i learned from this thread) dont go WOT.. i dont think thats off topic.....
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08-30-2006, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by pewter 01 SS
well just saying cuse the guys car has the ms4 which is not only bigger but is also on a 110 lobe so if he can drive it i think you can drive yours.. but like everyone said ( which i learned from this thread) dont go WOT.. i dont think thats off topic.....
08-30-2006, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Blacked Out
Sorry dude I thought you were being sarcastic. He should get a tune too.
JK.. no problem.. seeing what the consequences might be if you go WOT i wouldnt do it till you get tuned. good luck 
08-30-2006, 08:03 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Blacked Out
Hey guys I just got my MS3 installed in my car but it took to long and I missed my dyno appointment. The tuner is on vacation so I am going with out a tune for a few weeks. My question is how much should I drive the car and is there really anything that I could damage by not having a tune? I know the drivability with be a little iffy but as long as I dont sit in traffic I think it will be ok. My mods are MS3 113 LSA, UD pulley, LT's, no cats, catback, haltech intake. So what do you guys think should I be good to go for a short while till my buddy comes back from vacation?
driving on a bad tune means you can foul the plugs or worse.
08-30-2006, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gfastls1-sj
i drove mine over 6 months after big cam installed and nothing went wrong, went to the track about 3 times wot and my cam is still runing strong..
08-30-2006, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by eamador11
dont drive it, you should let it idle till operating temps then shut it down and let it sit overnight for a full cool down. do the same for the next 3 days. this is called heat cycling the valve springs. (I hope you upgraded to duals)
driving on a bad tune means you can foul the plugs or worse.
driving on a bad tune means you can foul the plugs or worse.
08-31-2006, 03:48 AM
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That is called heat cycling for spring break in.
You still need to let your car warm up before running it hard on a daily basis since the springs are more brittle than stock and can break if reved up cold.
I've never had a broken spring on an LSx motor yet, from 918's with .610 lifts to .670 lift duals. I always let it reach operating temp before moving. Takes a couple of minutes and some gas but well worth it IMO.
You still need to let your car warm up before running it hard on a daily basis since the springs are more brittle than stock and can break if reved up cold.
I've never had a broken spring on an LSx motor yet, from 918's with .610 lifts to .670 lift duals. I always let it reach operating temp before moving. Takes a couple of minutes and some gas but well worth it IMO.
08-31-2006, 08:39 AM
#15
Originally Posted by spazzyfry123
That's a good reminder. I knew about that, but totally forgot about it. I wasn't aware you needed to do it for 4 days though...? I thought you were supposed to start it up, let it reach operating temperatures, shut it off and let it go back to cold (under 100). Then do it a couple more times. All of that can be done in one day. But again, that is just what I have heard from other people. I have never done a cam swap myself, so I can't vouch for it. Please fill me in.
08-31-2006, 08:41 AM
#16
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
That is called heat cycling for spring break in.
You still need to let your car warm up before running it hard on a daily basis since the springs are more brittle than stock and can break if reved up cold.
You still need to let your car warm up before running it hard on a daily basis since the springs are more brittle than stock and can break if reved up cold.
btw, you dont have to wait till operating temps just to move it. I wait till 100deg water temp, then drive it with shifts below 2000 until i reach full temps.
08-31-2006, 12:31 PM
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I had no idea about the spring break in, thanks a lot I will definitely do that. Yes I upgraded the pushrods and to double springs. I had wondered about a break in period but I didnt know exactly what would have to be broken in. I have broken in rebuilt engines and clutches so I figures something had to be but now I know great info. BTW I always let my car warm up for a few minutes before I drive it anyway so I am in good practice.
