RALLDU

I just spent quite a bit on my rebuilding my top end.
COMP 228/236 575/590 112 lsa CAM AND LIFTERS, ONE PIECE PUSHRODS 7.100, PATRIOT 1.7 ADJ ROLLER ROCKERS, AND DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING CHAIN. STAGE 3 PORTED AND POLISHED 806 HEADS WITH MANLEY STAINLESS 2.02/1.60 VALVES COMP SPRINGS AND TT RETAINERS.

Now that i cant drive it because i spun a bearing im needing to upgrade the bottom end. spending more money.

So the question is what should be done. forged 347 bottom end or go all out and stroke it. if thats the answer how far should i go: 374, 383, 402, 408----427.

give me some help and some tips guys for a good build bottom end build. what crank, rods pistons, and what block aluminum or iron.

i need some expirience here. thanks for the help

im also panning on using the top end internals/valvetrain i have.

ssam98

iTrader: (5)

If you use your ls1 block you could go 383 or 395. If you resleve it go 427. If you go ls2 go 402 not 408 iron block to much of a load for the car to move around.

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

Its all depending how much power and what u want to spend. I started my 347 build up for my track car. So far Im 900 dollars in it. Texas speed has a good deal on piston and rods. All motor Im looking for 450+ with a six speed and prc heads and ms4. Then Im going to spray it. The stock crank is good to 1k i have read. So with block honing and assembly, and berings u shoud be around 2k I purchase all my bering from car quest the whole bering kit cost 150 dollars. Just about how much do you want to spend and how big? If you stay na I say go big 408 or 402 more tq than a 383+ I think sleeeving cost bukoo dollars better of buying a short block

RALLDU

well im not looking to spend a whole lot. kind of a budget build up since i just blew quite a bit on my top end. but im prolly gonna get a know block considersing some of my head bolt holes had been stripped. thanks for all the input already.

RALLDU

may end up just buying a complete stroker kit if i go that route.

ThirdGenLS1

iTrader: (11)

I love the statements on the iron block, so from your statement the LT1 can't move, neither can any other sbc, or the cobra with the iron block.

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

You would be very surprised to see how well a 374 runs.(3.9 stroke and 3.905 bore) I have built both 383's and 374's and prefer the 374 over the 383. Eagle has the rotating assemblies for this application for a resonable price. Of course if you want to spend more money than the 402 is the way to go.

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

no, the iron block will just mean it wont handle, brake, or accelerate as much better as it would if the extra 80 lbs or whatever over the alum block wasnt there

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

If you're gonna stay with those small valves, I would build a 383.

RALLDU

so exactly how big could you go with an ls2 aluminum block. so if i did go any bigger than a 383 what exactly would i need as far as heads and valves compared to what im running now. and the 408 or 402 would my ls1 full length headers bolt up cause i just invested in a new set. thanks again everyone.

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

Your headers will fit a 408. Your heads will, too. But with the smaller valves you'll be leaving power on the table. I imagine you'll have some good torque down low, but of course most people aren't happy without the impressive dyno number. Your cam is better suited for a 383 than a 4**ci motor, too. If it was me and I was keeping that h/c setup you have, I would go with a low buck 383, get a 90mm intake and rag the hell out of it.

RALLDU

sounds good to me. so what all would be involved on making a 383 ls1. i know they are sleeved, so can they be bored. thats what i was unsure about. would any other machining be required as far as crank and rod to block clearences. in not real intuned to the ls1, sorry if some of these questions are alittle stupid but i would not like to make a thousand doller mistake or two. thanks for the info thus far.
and what would be the the best way to go on building a solid higher rpm 383 without breaking the bank.

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

A 383 is easy, it uses the stock bore and 4.125 crank. You can go super low buck and buy an Eagle rotating assembly. Have a good shop go over your block, probably have the cylinders honed and put it together. With a Fast 90mm setup you can get way up in the 400rwhp range and have some good torque. Who knows, maybe you can end up with a 500rwhp dyno queen. Seen em before. If you actually need more power just spray it. If my 427 ever blows up, that is exactly what I will build.

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

i went 370 :shrug: i like it so far.

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

A 383 with an ls1 block is 3.905 bore/ 4.00 stroke. If he uses a 4.125 stroke he will have 395 cu.in. Eagle doesn't stock a 4.125 stroke. They stock 3.9, 4.0, 4.1 stroke.

quiet_storm98

iTrader: (48)

I would get the eagle 383 package..as everyone else said your topend will compliment that setup much better then a 400+ cubic inch motor..truthfully once i get heads and cam that is what i will probably do and then add some spray if i want some more power

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

I think it is really funny those who think the 60# difference in blocks will relly make the handling that much worse. When your 200# friend is sitting in the passenger seat is your handling/braking really affected. No.

383 is the way to go with a mid 230 cam, 400+ CI motors like big heads and big cams. Minimum for a big stroker is going to be 2.02 valves with 225intake runners and alow 240* cam IMO. Im running a 237/242 112 cam in my 418 and it has too much tq even for my 4wd truck, I will upgrading ot a 245/250 113 cam soon.

SOMENUTJOB

its nice to see that you guys know your stuff, the 383 sounds good, for my descision making, its gonna be a long week ahead -

michael402z06

iTrader: (15)

i think you should do a 402 ls2 or a 408. unless you can afford the price of a 427. later down the road you will want something bigger then a 347. plus you will get a 4" bore instead of the 3.9.

RALLDU

ok now. the heads i have are stage 3 ported and polished 806 heads by brannon performance with the oversized valves manley 2.02/1.60. if i did go bigger than a 383 with my block like the 395 what could i do with the heads to complement it. and again would the cam i have really compliment either a 383 or a 395 or would it be best to invest since its apart. i would just have to replace these parts since i had just imvested in them and the only have 90 or 100 miles on them, thats why i really would like to go as big as i can without having to rebuy. thats so far guys.