One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

set of ported stock heads, 2.02 1.60 valves. patriot gold dual springs
Comp Cams 234 242 .598 .610 on a 114lsa
ls6 intake, direct port ready (prolly wont spray though)

now for other parts i will need. if you know of a company that has them cheaper send me a pm if they are not a site sponsor.

1)ported oil pump - $139.99 - texas speed
2)pushrods (what size would i need, 7.400?) - $109.99 - texas speed
3)heads install bolt & gasket kit (part # 12499217) - $88.82 - gmpartsdirect
4)water pump gasket (part # 12588372) - $4.78/pair - gmpartsdirect
5)crank bolt (part # 12557840) - $2.62 - gmpartsdirect
6)ls2 timing chain (do i need just the chain or the ls2 timing set?) - chain/$35.99 set/$90.99 - texas speed
7)coolant fluid & oil
8)computer tune
9)msd plug wires - 59.99 - texas speed
10)ngk tr55-ix iridium plugs - 7.99each - texas speed


anything else i need or dont need?


car has 53k miles
new transmission with around 2500 miles
a 3000 tci torque converter
4.10s but not concerned
eh....click the link below to read mod list

ssbodyman

I would check into a new set of rocker arms and maybe some lifters depending on how many miles your engine has on it. That is an awfully big cam for the stock rockers and dont think that they will last long. Just my opinion.

One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

fuel pump and/or injectors needed now?

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Shiiiittt. The rockers are fine. If anything send them to Harlan or Nasty for a rebuild. Best 250$ you can put into your valvetrain if you ask me.

Cam is a pretty hefty split. Was that thing out of a nitrous machine?
As far as pushrods go, you are gonna want to find out what the base circle is on that cam. I don't think that it is an off the shelfer. Looks like a custom n2o grind if you ask me. I have a 244/248 (no, not a trex) and run 7.350's. Just make sure that you find out what will work.

Timing. The LS2 chain will work fine with your stock gears if they are not worn out too bad. In most cases they will not be chewed up.

Injectors, you could do a set of 30#SVO (which is around like 36.4#'s on an LS1 motor as compared to a Ford) and be fine with that setup. It is what I did with mine.

Tune. This will be the key to get that thing to run right. It will probably feel like it has no power on the bottom end of the spectrum until around 3k. If you don't have gears/stall whatever....plan on looking into that as well with that sized cam.

If I think of some more things I will barge in here and speak my mind.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

You have to change the crank bolt? Do not use the old one.

Bill

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Anytime you take it out put a new one back in.

One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

how bout new cam bearing set?

One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

t t t

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

Not unless they are bad.

Bill

One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

Do you have milled heads?

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

I would NOT get the iridium or platinum plugs, I'd go with a copper TR55.

Ben T.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

What he said. Don't bother with those expensive plugs. I've never seen any gains from them. I've seen more problems actually.

As also stated, you also shouldn't need the full timing set, just the chain.

I'm running stock non-rebuilt rockers on my motor and they haven't had any issues yet. I plan on having them gone through by Nasty but haven't gotten around to it yet. They've held up to numerous 6500RPM shifts and a couple 7000RPM rev limiter bounces.

Oh, and cam bearings are never a bad idea to replace, but I'm not sure if they can be done in the car. I did mine because the block was already out of the car. Cost me $65 including bearings/labor.

Rod bolts are a VERY good idea if you're going to be spinning that motor much past 6500RPMs consistently, which you'll have to be to get the most power out of that cam. I went ahead and replaced my rod bearings, but again, I had the motor out which makes things a lot easier.

marv

iTrader: (40)

Just a word of advice, scope out the for sale section for good deals...that's what I did.

Takes some time, but it's worth it...I saved a bundle over what I would have paid new.

But there is nothing wrong with supporting the sponsors. They do a lot for the enthusiasts and this site!

sunsetta

iTrader: (3)

Use the old crank bolt to seat the crank pulley when re-installing it.

8banger

iTrader: (16)

Custom? No...it's a G5X3. 7.4's work

One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

Will stock size head gaskets work for clearace. i dont want to modify the pistons.

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

use LS2 timing chain, ported LS6 pump, Katech rod bolts, new GM gaskets, GM multi layered steel headgaskets

when you do all this, pull your motor out the bottom it is easier than trying to do it in the car.

One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

well everything is installed but cant get it to idle. spent the whole day working on the idle and never got it. so the question is are 7.4s the right ones or not? running out of ideas.

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

it wont idle at all? or just wont idle very good? if you question the pushrod length you can determine if thats the problem with a cranking compression test. if there that much too long/short that it wont run, it wont have good cranking compression cause either there being held open all the time/too long cause the rods are too long, or not long enough causing the valves not to open fully and therefore not drawing in enough air to run properly. either case would show up on the cranking compression gauge as a low reading. not sure exactly what it should read, thats gonna be diff. with the scr/dcr, but should be atleast 150 pressure.

One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

spent 5 hours trying to get it to idle and couldnt get it. a few times we got it to kinda idle in park but when its put in gear it dies. he was tuning it as a speed density tune (no maf). we checked for a vacuum leak but didnt find anything. i called comp cam to get a little info on the cam but the tech was a dick and wasnt any help.