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Just traded lt1 for ls1 and i need a cam!!

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Old 10-18-2006, 10:37 PM
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Default Just traded lt1 for ls1 and i need a cam!!

well i just traded my bolt on lt1 for a 98 ws6 with 50k original. it has gutted cats and a ls6 intake mani. i plan on running a small shot of spray and want a cam that will get me close to 11's with headers and a TB...



i dont want to change injectors/heads. i understand valvetrain parts but that is all im willing to change. no timing chain anything!


let me know what you guys think!
Old 10-18-2006, 10:45 PM
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don't touch it. If you don't want to replace a timing set on a 8 year old car while putting a larger cam in with greater spring pressures, you are taking a gamble.

timing chain & oil pump = cheap insurance
Old 10-18-2006, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by hammertime
don't touch it. If you don't want to replace a timing set on a 8 year old car while putting a larger cam in with greater spring pressures, you are taking a gamble.

timing chain & oil pump = cheap insurance
Amen.

Supporting mods are just as if not more important then the "fun" ones.
Old 10-18-2006, 11:26 PM
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This is just about the first time ive heard 2 people in a row say not to cam it. It seems like he traded for this engine to let him go fast. Theres a lot of good cams out there.
Old 10-18-2006, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pHEnomIC
This is just about the first time ive heard 2 people in a row say not to cam it. It seems like he traded for this engine to let him go fast. Theres a lot of good cams out there.
We are saying so for a reason, we rather him have a running stock motor them gamble on stuffing a Trex in there maybe hitting an 11 then calling triple A.
Old 10-18-2006, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Ace$nyper
We are saying so for a reason, we rather him have a running stock motor them gamble on stuffing a Trex in there maybe hitting an 11 then calling triple A.
Amen.

There is a lot more to hopping up a car than making the dyno numbers. There is a good chance you would be fine running the original 50,000 timing chain with a performance cam and higher spring pressures, turning more rpms. There is probably about as good a chance that it comes apart at the first missed shift. Like I said, taking a gamble.

I'd be more inclined to say go for it if we were talking about the same mileage on an '02 that has had years of improvements applied by the general, and not an early LS1 car.
Old 10-19-2006, 12:09 AM
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Also, in order to really recommend a cam, rather than just throw the name of a cam I like out there, there are a few pieces missing.

Is this a daily driver? stick or automatic? If auto, what converter, if any, can/will you tolerate? want good all around power or more top end?

There are plenty of A4 cars out there in the 12's with a converter and bolt-ons, so close to 11's could be done on the spray - no cam required.
Old 10-19-2006, 12:11 AM
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Sometimes you have to let people like this find out on their own .Its kinda like the time when I recommended my buddy replace his worn out timing belt , sure nuff few weeks later I get a call for me to go check whats wrong with his car .hes left with a car thats not worth **** right now until fixed , bent valves , needs a new cylinder head for sure, and damn them pistons with holes in them , in short a major overhaul is needed . Going the extra mile for a new timing belt and he would still be rollin , instead he rideless .
Old 10-19-2006, 12:15 AM
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Spend the $80 and get the LS2 chain... If your budget is that tight then.........I just need to be nice.
Old 10-19-2006, 06:12 AM
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yea i understand...after doing research i now understand that. so actually time chain/oil pump will be done as well...


now on to the cam :-D



it is a M6 and it is a DD
Old 10-19-2006, 10:18 AM
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In that case, I'd say get a custom ground cam, something like a 224/228 on a 110 LSA. Should have a nice lope to it, and idle well. You wouldn't want the LSA that tight on an auto without a stall converter.

Keeping the durations lower but with a narrow LSA gives better low and mid performance, still gives healthy gains all around and will give you the lumpy idle everyone likes.

Two things to be careful of:
1) Running N2O with a M6, you'll want to invest in a window switch to cut the nitrous when shifting. Additionally, you'll want the proper low pressure switches and such to keep from melting down the motor if there is a malfunction. There's tons if info out there in the Nitrous Oxide section.
2) While its tempting, beware of bolting sticky tires onto your stock rear. The first several launches will be fun, but M6 + Traction = Broken Parts before long. The loading/unloading of nitrous runs on sticky tires will only make it worse. Invest in a good 9 inch or 12-bolt and sell your complete rear to someone with 2.73's and an auto.

Sorry to be hard on ya in the replies, but we're only trying to save you aggravation and broken parts.

Good Luck!
Old 10-19-2006, 10:27 AM
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i appreciate it and im glad that you guys are looking out for me. the car has a DR on it right now but dont intendedo n going anything more. would you guys advise running nitrous without headers/exhaust... i have the system with a WOT switch and window switch/purge and wondering if a 75 shot would be too much on stock everything but ls6 intake mani and gutted cats.


thanks guys
Old 10-19-2006, 04:53 PM
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The spray was the very first thing on my car
Old 10-19-2006, 07:12 PM
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how big of a shot did u go?
Old 10-19-2006, 07:17 PM
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a friend of mine, a performance mechanic by trade, had a 150 shot on it a couple months after picking up his 98. He beat the snot out of that thing. A lid, catback and free mods, he was trapping 109 N/A.




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