TuffSS

iTrader: (6)

On a tight budget, but would like to replace my timing chain as its condition is unknown to me on my fairly recently acquired SS. Would like to change cams since I'd already be in there, but I really can't afford much right now or for a few.

Came across a guy who has a little cam that sounds kinda nice for a driver and was curious what you guys would think besides that its small.

Info provided to me so far is only:

Grind Number# HR-279-CSB I google searched a bit for this, with no luck.

RPM Operating Range:

1800 to 6600

Duration:

Advertised IN./.275 EX./.287

@.050" IN./218 EX./228

Valve Lift:

1.7 Rocker: IN./.558 EX./.558

Springs: LS6 or equivalent

Lobe Sep. Angle:

IN./116

EX./116



Looks decent for a cam only very tight budget temporary DD cam for only $150.

Do I need more valve timing events to know? And would that seem OK for no headers?

mvvette97

iTrader: (18)

I think that cam would be a good cam for a daily driver. Some extra hp also. The only thing , I wouldn't use the LS6 springs. With that cam the lift would be about to max the springs out. You need a set of Comp 918s

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

For a car with stock manifolds, that's not a bad cam. Cut in the general mold of TR's Cheater

TuffSS

iTrader: (6)

Found out its a regrind. How does that affect things? Longer pushrods? And how do you know how much longer? My engines never been apart.

8GTOKLR

iTrader: (6)

Timing chain is 25 bucks...The LS2 chain thru GM. I got it on my setup

A-Dub

iTrader: (6)

Why do you think you need to replace the timing chain? To the best of my knowledge, timing chains in a stock engine aren't prone to failure. Save yourself the time and hassle and change the chain when you are ready to put a bigger cam in

Camaro Rick

iTrader: (2)

I've heard of people being worried about their oil pumps failing. Although on a budget, the LS6 oil pump is much more reliable. Your stock one would probably go way before the timing chain.

Also, whichever cam you decide on, I've got a set of brand new Yellow LS6 springs I'd sell you for a good price. PM me if your interested.

Rick M.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

You'll still have plenty of clearance running LS6 springs with that cam. You actually could even shim them a little and still be .050" before coil bind assuming 1.800" install height.

Ben T.

TuffSS

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the input guys. Really appreciate it.

I'm going to see if I can find out the actual valve timing events for the cam to push me towards a decision on it. Was planning a CheaTR or very similar with perhaps the rpm range pulled down just a tiny bit.

However, with my car being a daily driver for likely about another year I do have concerns still about valve springs with the higher lifts. Now I know from reading that guys are getting good mileage out of springs with up to around .600", but my concern is more on whether I'd have to be making more of a point to have my engine warmed up before pulling out of the driveway to head for work. I take it real easy on it when it has not been warmed up. I actually attempt to be real slow with acceleration and keep the rpms real real low until the temp gauge gets up and even once its up to coolant temp I still take it fairly easy for a few more minutes to let everything else catch up and get truely to operating temp. I just usually push the clock in the mornings not allowing me to sit in the driveway and get any heat really at all in the engine before I've got her in gear. Again, taking it real real easy.

Based on my above warmup concerns regarding springs and how much lift,......well should I be concerned about that or is the wanting fully warmed up springs comments I've read about only a concern regarding pully some decent rpm and not an issue if I run it like I do currently til shes warm. Comments on the warmed up springs related to lift on a DD needed?

Thanks

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

.558 is probably a comp XE ramp or similar. It is not as agressive as a .600 lift lobe.

As far as warm up goes, I try to stay under 2500 rpm on cold mornings. It's not hard unless you need to pull into fast moving traffic from a stop.

TuffSS

iTrader: (6)

If I remember right the guy is claiming its ground off of a Hotcam master or some such. I'm not familiar with the hotcams but I thought they were only like .525" lift. Not sure if that means anything at this point.

I know I may want more cam down the rode, but for now and the next little while anyways whatcha think.

On the surface it seems kinda decent for low bucks.



Would I need a pushrod length checker or could I just mic the cam and tell how much the base circle was taken down and thus how much longer of a pushrod I'd need???? My engine has never been apart.

TuffSS

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so 1.6 to 1.7 ratio is accounting for the more lift, but.........the other specs .........

1989GTA

Yes you would need to check the pushrod length. Most likely you will need slightly longer pushrods as this is a reground cam. Nothing wrong with a reground cam if done correctly. Sounds like a fine cam for a daily driver.

TuffSS

iTrader: (6)

Should be possible to pass non-sniffer emissions testing with this I'd assume since its only slightly bigger than a Z06 cam.

Wondering if I'll pass/not kick any codes if I run gutted cats?

With no tune? With a tune?

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

passing a untuned cam with no cats isn't likely to happen.

TuffSS

iTrader: (6)

Really, even with this small of a cam. I thought with the tame duration and wide LSA that it might not be to bad. For example, my Bronco even with the stock speed density computer not only runs OK with the 112 lsa cam I have in there, but passed an actual sniffer test great. Though my Bronc does have good cats in place so, and the duration is real real tame so despite the 112 lsa in that case I suppose the overlap is still real minimal and with the cats maybe thats why she flew through. Probably a bad comparison.

Hmmmm, only 218/228 on a 116 lsa gonna need a tune for emissions code reading huh.



On that note, emissions more of an issue with the CheaTR cam?
And, how much better is the CheaTR likely (educated guess) than this little cam I'm considering? Not just peak power better, but across the rpm range? Should I be holding out for a CheaTR is what I'm thinking?

Thanks guys......

rubber duck

iTrader: (7)

It's the gutted cats that will throw the codes. Most shops will turn off all your emission related codes for about $75. If you leave the cats alone you should be fine, but in the end the ses light tells you if you're fine or not.

BigDaddyBry

iTrader: (15)

Is this the cam on ebay advertised as a hotcam regrind?

TuffSS

iTrader: (6)

Yes, why?

TuffSS

iTrader: (6)