Best use for a .10 over LS1 block?
12-21-2006, 06:12 PM
#1
Best use for a .10 over LS1 block? i have one..i have tried selling it but no buyers..so what would be the best choice for a build? how far can i sleeve it out? what would eb the most feasable power gain? it would bea nitrous engine and maby later on boost..i know that there are a LOT of people here with kick *** builds..* W2W = cars to drool over* and a lot of other people who have built engines and have done lotta different things..again this will be on a budget, parts must be readily available...please give me some help..thanks! in advance.
Greg
Greg
12-21-2006, 06:37 PM
#3
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if it is just a block then get a complete rotating assembly, and as long as you're buying a crank then it might as well be one with more stroke for a 383 right? forged pistons, maybe forged rods, cast crank, and nitrous rings. Your choice of valve train parts. LS6 intake will work if you're on a budget, Fast 90/90 would feed it better, but you could put that money towards refilling your N2O. If you don't want to drop the $ on a stroker set up then go for forged rods/pistons, stock crank and the LS6 intake will be enough on a budget.
Good Luck and let us all know what you have decided
AJ
Edit: That doesn't sound like a big overbore if you're coming from a traditional SBC background but usually people only over bore .005 so have the block sonic checked before you spend any money on a rotating assembly.
Resleeving is extremely expensive so if you were wanting to build a 427 you'd be better of buying an assembled short block.
AJ
Good Luck and let us all know what you have decided
AJ
Edit: That doesn't sound like a big overbore if you're coming from a traditional SBC background but usually people only over bore .005 so have the block sonic checked before you spend any money on a rotating assembly.
Resleeving is extremely expensive so if you were wanting to build a 427 you'd be better of buying an assembled short block.
AJ
12-21-2006, 08:34 PM
#5
Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
.010 or .100?
that's a bit of a difference. I'm assuming he means the former. And people do run LS1 blocks bored even .030 over so a sonic test wouldn't even really be necessary, although would be good safety practice.
12-21-2006, 08:42 PM
#6
If it was bored 0.1" over, then you should throw away the block, or send it out to get it resleeved. If it was bored 0.01" over, which I think is what you mean, then you have several options. Two that I would consider is first using the stock crank with high quality rods, pistons, and rings. This will give you a well built 347 that can handle 1000+ hp, based on what parts you use of course. Or you can go with a 4" stroker crank and build a 383. It would be strong NA or you can throw on a blower or nitrous.
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12-21-2006, 09:33 PM
#8
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Why spend the money on boring a block if you don't already have pistons and a plan to build it? Sleeving means that the existing cylinder walls go away so it doesn't matter about the existing bore size. Darton sleeves are the best option but why bother when for the $2500 that you would spend on the Darton setup you could buy an LS7 block.
12-22-2006, 12:01 PM
#11
the block is the original out of my 99 formy..she spun a rod bearing..i had the short block dissasembled at a place in savannah and they checked it out and honed the cylinder 10 over. the block itself is still inthe plastic bag in my tool shed. I wanted to know what the best build for it would be..looking for 500whp ..forced induction /nitrous will be added eventually.
I realise that it will have to be forged internals, forged crank is kind of a waste of time and $$$$ but i am looking for about the same compression as a stocker..maby a shade more..and yes the block has been magnafluxed, and shot peened by the machine shop i had it at. I am just tyring to figure out if the block itself is worth building or should i just get like a TSP347 assembly and upgrade the pistons?
Was looking at a TSP 347 with ET Performance heads and my current LS6 intake w/ my slp LT's and loudmouth..i realise that N/A it will be super tough to hit that 500whp mark w/ out a power adder..thats why i was thinking ceramic coated pistons just to be safe.
Thanks again in advance for all the info..and how far would it have to be honed/sleeved to acheive that magic 383 #? i know that 383 put out a lotta torque and w/ the right heads/valvetrain/intake combo can run good top end as well..once again..thanks for all the help!!
Gregg
I realise that it will have to be forged internals, forged crank is kind of a waste of time and $$$$ but i am looking for about the same compression as a stocker..maby a shade more..and yes the block has been magnafluxed, and shot peened by the machine shop i had it at. I am just tyring to figure out if the block itself is worth building or should i just get like a TSP347 assembly and upgrade the pistons?
Was looking at a TSP 347 with ET Performance heads and my current LS6 intake w/ my slp LT's and loudmouth..i realise that N/A it will be super tough to hit that 500whp mark w/ out a power adder..thats why i was thinking ceramic coated pistons just to be safe.
Thanks again in advance for all the info..and how far would it have to be honed/sleeved to acheive that magic 383 #? i know that 383 put out a lotta torque and w/ the right heads/valvetrain/intake combo can run good top end as well..once again..thanks for all the help!!
Gregg
