LQ4 Machine Shop
01-13-2007, 08:48 PM
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LQ4 Machine Shop Hey there. I got my hands on a LQ4 block out of a 2002 Denali. Someone poured something into the tank and the engine siezed. The block, pistons, rods, and crank all still good, but it needs new everything else. I've also still got the heads and pushrods.
I'm new at hot rodding and I've learned everything there is to know about the block. Does anyone have any idea what getting the short block rebuilt at a machine shop would run me? I figure I have to get it honed, cleaned, new rings and bearings etc. Any price ideas? As far as I know I'm looking at from 200 dollars to 2,000 depending on who I ask, which isn't really helpful when you work minimum wage and go to college. Thanks.
I'm new at hot rodding and I've learned everything there is to know about the block. Does anyone have any idea what getting the short block rebuilt at a machine shop would run me? I figure I have to get it honed, cleaned, new rings and bearings etc. Any price ideas? As far as I know I'm looking at from 200 dollars to 2,000 depending on who I ask, which isn't really helpful when you work minimum wage and go to college. Thanks.
01-13-2007, 10:22 PM
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Anyone? I've searched these forums countless times and I can't seem to find anything. Also I can't get a quote from any machine shops through e-mail so if anyone can give me ANY sort of guesstimate I would be entirely greatful!
01-14-2007, 08:47 AM
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Top Secret,
You say that the engine seized and yet you say that the block, pistons, rods and crank are still good. What seized? If something seized, one of the four major item categories that you say are still good probably are not still good or need some work.
Your statement "I'm new at hot rodding and I've learned everything there is to know about the block." is also very contradictory in nature. I'm 57 years old, a former diesel truck mechanic and an engineer who considers himself a gear-head and I still don't know nearly everything there is to know about the block. It appears to me that you are very excited that you picked up a 6.0 L long block that seized for probably very little money and you want to do something with it.
What would you like to do with this engine? How much time and money will you honestly have to spend on it?
Give your answers some thought and respond.
All my best,
Steve
You say that the engine seized and yet you say that the block, pistons, rods and crank are still good. What seized? If something seized, one of the four major item categories that you say are still good probably are not still good or need some work.
Your statement "I'm new at hot rodding and I've learned everything there is to know about the block." is also very contradictory in nature. I'm 57 years old, a former diesel truck mechanic and an engineer who considers himself a gear-head and I still don't know nearly everything there is to know about the block. It appears to me that you are very excited that you picked up a 6.0 L long block that seized for probably very little money and you want to do something with it.
What would you like to do with this engine? How much time and money will you honestly have to spend on it?
Give your answers some thought and respond.
All my best,
Steve
01-14-2007, 04:25 PM
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Hey there. Thanks for the response Steve. 
The pistons, rods and crank are good, but the rings are fried. The engine had 5,000 miles on it when it happened. Apparently someone poured salt or sugar in the tank and the barrings are messed up aswell.
The block has been sitting in a garage for a few years. While yes, the statement "I know everything there is to know about this block." is false, it certainly isn't far from the truth. I've spent hours upon hours reading about the lq4/lq9 vortec 6000 series blocks from General Motors.
"It appears to me that you are very excited that you picked up a 6.0 L long block that seized for probably very little money and you want to do something with it."
That statement is entirely correct. I picked up the block which contained:
Block, crank, rods, pistons, heads, pushrods, rockers, water pump, injectors... for 280 bucks with a engine stand.
Basically, all I need to buy is gaskets, bearings, rings, intake, ecu, harness and alternator. I also need an F-Body oil pan so that it will fit in the car. (As many know the Vortec block oil pans hang down about 4 inches lower)
For the ECU and harness I'm going with Megasquirt
For the intake I'm trying to find a truck intake manifold (The tall ones)
The engine is for my current project. A datsun 240z. I'm trying to get the entire project done for under $6,000.00. So far it's looking pretty good:
Datsun 240z: 1,300
Sold L24+Tranny: -400
LQ4 + Stand: 280
A T-56 is probably going to run me at least 1,000 for everything I need and the mounting kit is going to be about 300.
That puts me somewhere in the ball park of 2280. 6000-2280=3720 left
Now, this money is "as it comes" to me. I'm a 19 year old teenager with a bum minimum wage part time job and a full time college student. This project was never intended to be a 3 month project. I think I can get it done within one year. If I have to spend 2,000 dollars to get this LQ4 running, I will. But as it stands right now, I can't manage to get a straight answer from anyone and personally I hate it when I'm trying to do business and people aren't in the right way about it. I'd really like to call machine shops with some sort of idea of what I'm going to be spending here instead of acting like the casual soccer mom that brings her car in for an oil change and they charge $200.00 and she doesn't know any better. So she just pays it.
Once again, thanks Steve.
The pistons, rods and crank are good, but the rings are fried. The engine had 5,000 miles on it when it happened. Apparently someone poured salt or sugar in the tank and the barrings are messed up aswell.
The block has been sitting in a garage for a few years. While yes, the statement "I know everything there is to know about this block." is false, it certainly isn't far from the truth. I've spent hours upon hours reading about the lq4/lq9 vortec 6000 series blocks from General Motors.
"It appears to me that you are very excited that you picked up a 6.0 L long block that seized for probably very little money and you want to do something with it."
That statement is entirely correct. I picked up the block which contained:
Block, crank, rods, pistons, heads, pushrods, rockers, water pump, injectors... for 280 bucks with a engine stand.
Basically, all I need to buy is gaskets, bearings, rings, intake, ecu, harness and alternator. I also need an F-Body oil pan so that it will fit in the car. (As many know the Vortec block oil pans hang down about 4 inches lower)
For the ECU and harness I'm going with Megasquirt
For the intake I'm trying to find a truck intake manifold (The tall ones)
The engine is for my current project. A datsun 240z. I'm trying to get the entire project done for under $6,000.00. So far it's looking pretty good:
Datsun 240z: 1,300
Sold L24+Tranny: -400
LQ4 + Stand: 280
A T-56 is probably going to run me at least 1,000 for everything I need and the mounting kit is going to be about 300.
That puts me somewhere in the ball park of 2280. 6000-2280=3720 left
Now, this money is "as it comes" to me. I'm a 19 year old teenager with a bum minimum wage part time job and a full time college student. This project was never intended to be a 3 month project. I think I can get it done within one year. If I have to spend 2,000 dollars to get this LQ4 running, I will. But as it stands right now, I can't manage to get a straight answer from anyone and personally I hate it when I'm trying to do business and people aren't in the right way about it. I'd really like to call machine shops with some sort of idea of what I'm going to be spending here instead of acting like the casual soccer mom that brings her car in for an oil change and they charge $200.00 and she doesn't know any better. So she just pays it.
Once again, thanks Steve.
01-14-2007, 04:40 PM
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The truth is a Machine shop is never going to give you an exact qoute, however I believe $200 is to low and would not go there myself... If this were my block I would want it to be completely gone through and all the specs checked 2-3x's, but I'm a picky sob that would rather do things myself if I'm capable! I'm gonna say a good machine shop 2-3k ready to drop in!
01-14-2007, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001bluerata
The truth is a Machine shop is never going to give you an exact qoute, however I believe $200 is to low and would not go there myself... If this were my block I would want it to be completely gone through and all the specs checked 2-3x's, but I'm a picky sob that would rather do things myself if I'm capable! I'm gonna say a good machine shop 2-3k ready to drop in!
That is 3,000 dollars?
01-14-2007, 06:42 PM
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Hey TS, new guy here but I think I can shed a little light on your project since I work in a racing/machine shop. Bear in mind these prices our at my shop and can and will vary!
tear down/clean/inspect 250-300
bore block if needed 175
Torque plate hone 175
Balance 225
Line hone if needed 175
Assembly will vary quite a bit depending on the shop, our shop would get 70$ per hour. $$$ I know
I just did an iron LS block for a local customer, and we pre checked all the bearing clearances for him(280-300 I think), all together I think he spent about $1800
Cory Mattson
Patterson Racing
tear down/clean/inspect 250-300
bore block if needed 175
Torque plate hone 175
Balance 225
Line hone if needed 175
Assembly will vary quite a bit depending on the shop, our shop would get 70$ per hour. $$$ I know
I just did an iron LS block for a local customer, and we pre checked all the bearing clearances for him(280-300 I think), all together I think he spent about $1800
Cory Mattson
Patterson Racing
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01-15-2007, 09:16 PM
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Top Secret,
First and foremost, I wish you success with this project. I owned a 1972 240Z for 14 years and it was a good car. I'd be curious to know what the LQ4/T56 weighs versus the 2.4L engine with a four speed. You will have some significant suspension work plus shoehorning the drive train in won't be easy. Cooling will be a significant issue and the drive shaft, differential and half shafts of the 240Z aren't nearly up to the task. Something like this can monopolize all of your time and attention. I felt the same way about learning to fly during college. For several years, I put all of my spare resources in flying lessons (time, money, energy). Eventually I got my private, commercial, instrument and multi-engine ratings, but there were times when I should have been more focused on school and other aspects of my life after graduation.
Anyway, I still wish you the best!
Steve
I don't blame you one bit for wanting to do this project. However, even if finances were no obstacle, I want to caution you about letting a project like this derailing your education.
First and foremost, I wish you success with this project. I owned a 1972 240Z for 14 years and it was a good car. I'd be curious to know what the LQ4/T56 weighs versus the 2.4L engine with a four speed. You will have some significant suspension work plus shoehorning the drive train in won't be easy. Cooling will be a significant issue and the drive shaft, differential and half shafts of the 240Z aren't nearly up to the task. Something like this can monopolize all of your time and attention. I felt the same way about learning to fly during college. For several years, I put all of my spare resources in flying lessons (time, money, energy). Eventually I got my private, commercial, instrument and multi-engine ratings, but there were times when I should have been more focused on school and other aspects of my life after graduation.
Anyway, I still wish you the best!
Steve
I don't blame you one bit for wanting to do this project. However, even if finances were no obstacle, I want to caution you about letting a project like this derailing your education.
01-16-2007, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
Top Secret,
First and foremost, I wish you success with this project. I owned a 1972 240Z for 14 years and it was a good car. I'd be curious to know what the LQ4/T56 weighs versus the 2.4L engine with a four speed. You will have some significant suspension work plus shoehorning the drive train in won't be easy. Cooling will be a significant issue and the drive shaft, differential and half shafts of the 240Z aren't nearly up to the task. Something like this can monopolize all of your time and attention. I felt the same way about learning to fly during college. For several years, I put all of my spare resources in flying lessons (time, money, energy). Eventually I got my private, commercial, instrument and multi-engine ratings, but there were times when I should have been more focused on school and other aspects of my life after graduation.
Anyway, I still wish you the best!
Steve
I don't blame you one bit for wanting to do this project. However, even if finances were no obstacle, I want to caution you about letting a project like this derailing your education.
First and foremost, I wish you success with this project. I owned a 1972 240Z for 14 years and it was a good car. I'd be curious to know what the LQ4/T56 weighs versus the 2.4L engine with a four speed. You will have some significant suspension work plus shoehorning the drive train in won't be easy. Cooling will be a significant issue and the drive shaft, differential and half shafts of the 240Z aren't nearly up to the task. Something like this can monopolize all of your time and attention. I felt the same way about learning to fly during college. For several years, I put all of my spare resources in flying lessons (time, money, energy). Eventually I got my private, commercial, instrument and multi-engine ratings, but there were times when I should have been more focused on school and other aspects of my life after graduation.
Anyway, I still wish you the best!
Steve
I don't blame you one bit for wanting to do this project. However, even if finances were no obstacle, I want to caution you about letting a project like this derailing your education.
The weight difference between the stock L24 and 4 speed transmission to that of a LS1 and T56 transmission is a difference of about 75 pounds (plus another 70 for an iron block). This can be lessened with aluminum parts and can even return the car to it's original balance by doing small mods such as moving the battery to the rear. I can keep the stock suspension. The r180 rear end can be swapped for a much more stout r200 rear end which is almost a direct bolt on. Cooling is something I'm worried about but I think with a quality aluminum radiator I should be well off. I'll try not to let this project ruin me financially.
01-16-2007, 09:18 AM
#11
Just an FYI; if your bearings are fried, your crank is most likely going to need turned (assuming it's not so bad that can't be done) and you may need to size your rods; With enough damage an align hone may be necessary as well. Those are all a couple hundred dollars a pop, so just keep in mind, depending on the damage to the motor, it may be more $$.
01-16-2007, 07:06 PM
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I'm not saying you can't have it done cheaper, and surely if you buy all the parts yourself the machine shop work is all that's gonna cost you. The price I stated, was assuming you were having them purchase the parts and install, along w/ all the machine work required. As stated above you never know what the machine shop will find w/ your motor, and add to your expense! Good luck on your project.
