my cam progress pics
#6
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Originally Posted by kevins2000LS1
im wondering how hard is to going to be to change them valve springs
Originally Posted by 1baddls1
go to autozone/advance auto parts/pepboys/napa etc etc etc and buy the pen magnets to hold the lifters... 16 bucks and those magnets come in handy all the damn time
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Originally Posted by keliente
Until the little magnet top decides it wants to stick to the lifter more than the glue can hold it to pen itself...then you have a problem.
Also, the springs arnt that bad. i used the crane tool on mine. the #8 cylinder was kind of a PITA, but i got the rest done in about an hour.
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#10
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Yeah, I thought the same thing till I scrolled down. Looks like it is going well. I used the twisty compressor kind and had a time putting in the dual valvesprings, but it was just because the tabs that gripped the springs was'nt long enough but to barely grip the second spring. No big deal, just time consuming, and yeah those springs feel real good when they catch you in the belly when they fly loose! Good luck and be patient!
#11
Originally Posted by cowboysfan
looks good, doesn't have to be metal. wood will work too.
fuerzaws6
fuerzaws6
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thanks guys yea i really dont know what to use to hold those lifters up.... ima break the crank bolt now and pull that **** all apart...... then oil pump yikes.... ill post sum more **** after midnight, i got the more tool and have all new valve seals.... ill post up later
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yippy 1st problem so far,, i rented out the pulley puller that screws into my underdrive pulley right... one of the bolt broke into the pulley and now im lost on what to use.. maybe a huge claw grab it from the back? theres nothing to grab from inside.......
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I used a 3 jaw pulley puller from napa on a march pulley . If you got some tools you could even extend the ends to make them more flat so they get a better grip on the back of the underdrive pulley . Also be sure you got the crank longer bolt .
As far as holding the lifters up go to the hardware store and get some 3/16 or 5/16 dowel rods and cut them a little bit longer than the length of the cam .
As far as holding the lifters up go to the hardware store and get some 3/16 or 5/16 dowel rods and cut them a little bit longer than the length of the cam .
#16
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
Lol @ the LS1HowTo print-out laying on the windshield! I used it every time for a long time. Still need to refer to it probably the next time I swap heads or cam. It is a worthy document and good enough for someone that wants to do it, but never has.
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lol but i kant find the longer crank bolt anywhere at all...
ill look for a huge claw. in the mean time kan i change the springs right away? i probably can. i bought a 4 foot long 5 16 metal rod so ill cut that and stick it in there when i finally get the cover off
ill look for a huge claw. in the mean time kan i change the springs right away? i probably can. i bought a 4 foot long 5 16 metal rod so ill cut that and stick it in there when i finally get the cover off
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Dont need a longer bolt.. Use this tool to install another stock bolt!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/391883-new-crank-dampener-installation-tool-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/391883-new-crank-dampener-installation-tool-pics.html
#20
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Call a rental shop and ask them if they have a 3 jaw puller. Call until you find one. I rented mine for $8 for the day. You dont need the biggest one they have. The jaws need to go in between not all the way around.
As far as the longer bolt its not absolutely needed if your not a retard when threading it in and using it to pull the pulley on. I used the stock one both times. Although now I have an ARP, I still didnt need a longer one to put the pulley on. Think about what your doing and you should be fine. Unless you know that your kind of retarded and will strip it. If so then buy the tool above or call TSP and have them ship you a longer bolt.
Crank it on a turn then back it off then crank it on then back it off. Be smart and feel for the threads grabbing or missing and you'll be fine. BUT if your unsure then get the tool or a longer bolt
As far as the longer bolt its not absolutely needed if your not a retard when threading it in and using it to pull the pulley on. I used the stock one both times. Although now I have an ARP, I still didnt need a longer one to put the pulley on. Think about what your doing and you should be fine. Unless you know that your kind of retarded and will strip it. If so then buy the tool above or call TSP and have them ship you a longer bolt.
Crank it on a turn then back it off then crank it on then back it off. Be smart and feel for the threads grabbing or missing and you'll be fine. BUT if your unsure then get the tool or a longer bolt