Halloran

iTrader: (7)

Engine rebuild specs on my 99 WS6 M6 are as follows.

Comp Cam 224/228 .581/.588 114 LSA
Ported Oil Pump
Hardened Pushrods
Set of 243 LS6 Heads GM
918 Valve Springs
LS6 Intake
Ported Throttle Body
New Gaskets and Bolts
(exhaust headers when I can afford it)

I also need to know whether or not my stock bottom end will be able to handle this setup. I've read some posts about people snapping rods with some higher mileage engines. My car has 140k miles on the block. Should I look at replacing the rod bearings or just check them for smoothness? Anything I'm missing? Also, what is going to be my expected RWHP with this setup? I'm curious to know

Specialized

iTrader: (15)

Expect 350rwhp. If/when you make more, you will be delighted. Expect to have a nice dd car, capable of big potential with some better (even moreso than the ls6s) casting heads (small bore AFR, Darts, TFS, etc) power and torque when those are bolted on. Why not just buy new rod bolts and put those in while you're at it. Katechs are probably the best you can get.

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

IMO you need a bigger cam.

Halloran

iTrader: (7)

I don't plan on putting a bigger cam in the car. This is actually going to be a business and personal vehicle. I drive long distances and although the bigger cams are no doubt tons of fun, I don't plan on going over 400 rwhp in this car...ever. I know the 224/228 cam can achieve very good results if I ever want to push the car to it's limits with that cam. Besides, I don't want to become completely bankrupt come Summer when gas prices decide to royally rape our bank accounts.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

No need for a bigger cam anyway. You'll have better power throughout the entire curve with the smaller cams & way better daily driver manners. Big numbers is not always where its at, unless your dyno racing. The smaller cams are time tested & proven to lay down very good times at the track.

Once you get some LT's & ORY on there it'll pick up even more & you'll get to see the full potiential of your set-up.

santiago

iTrader: (28)

have you ever been in a car with a big cam? cuz ive raced cars with small cams and the power they make under the curve doesnt seem to help them.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well I have only rode in a few cars with cams, but I do know that the guy that holds the fastest heads/cam time @ our local track had a 224/.581 w/ported stock heads.

No one has beat his time since, even with bigger cams. I guess bigger is better if you wanna run high rpm's everywhere you go to stay in a power band.

Shinigami2x4

I dont know why everyone keeps saying go big are go home, not everyone is interested in that. I agree, a small cam is ideal for a DD and a person on a budget. Im thinking of getting the hotcam, it has fairly good results and good for a DD. I agree with the gas price thing.

santiago

iTrader: (28)

i dont know either, but i wont waste my time with a 224

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Give Patrick G a shout and ask him how much power he makes with a baby 224 cam. Small cams make great power when the entire setup is matched.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

With 140K on the clock anything is possible. I went out to my car one morning and snapped a rod in half when I started the car, lol. Juts abd luck i guess.

Just be prepared to have to buy a new block at some point in the future. Your block may last a long time, but it may not.

Halloran

iTrader: (7)

So replacing the rod bolts would be a wise decision I'm guessing? Can rod bolts be installed with the block in the car up top or is that an oil pan removal deal? If I were to get new Rod Bolts should I look at Katech or ARP?

Thanks again

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Its am oil pan removal deal, there is a sticky at the top of this forum with a writeup on how to do it with the engine in.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I would be wary of doin it though. If you do be very careful. A local guy did his & spun a bearing not too long after. Not sure if it was related, but sure was close to the time they got replaced.

I have heard it can mess the bearings up also. Anyone else have anymore info??

Halloran

iTrader: (7)

So replace rod bolts AND bearings and what about cam bearings?

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Dont mess with the cam bearings.

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

either the stock cam is fine or you should go bigger. a 224 cam is only going to net you a few tenths, and its not worth the money. if you are going to cam your car put a cam in that moves those lifters, not just something that mildly irritates the lifters.

i drove my "big cam" stalled LS1 3200 miles back and forth, and around in florida, making about 19mpg.

yes, a 224 cam with amazing trick flow ported heads will make more power than a trex, MS3/4, G5x3/4 car, but it will also cost you about $3000 more. why? it dosent make sense. you can safely daily drive a big cam car comfortably, and if you cant do that, you need to leave your car alone or get another car to daily drive. you will be disapointed with a 224 cam when you get flat walked by a car that gets 1 less mpg and the guy daily drives it too.

Halloran

iTrader: (7)

I'm not too sure how well my stock bottom end will hold out on a larger cam. Last thing I want to do is spin a bearing and then really be up **** creek...without a boat. If I get a larger cam then what should I be looking for and what should I be looking for in upgrades? I know I'll probably need new rod bolts but I DON'T plan on pulling the motor to do new rod bolt bearings etc.

santiago

iTrader: (28)

big cams make more when set up also...

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

True but they are harder to maximize everywhere simply due to PTVC issues. there isnt much room to work with on a stock motor.head car. Now if you have some major piston relief thats a different story.