4Birdman

iTrader: (13)

I'm in the process of specing out the parts for my H/C on my 98 TA. The heads are being done by a local friend's race shop. They are 5.3L castings that are going to be resized for LS1 valves, ported, milled .03, and 3-angled. They should be a great budget head. Valve springs will depend on what cam I go with.

The car has Pacesetter LTs, ORY, Spintech cat-back, and will have a 3400 Midwest converter in it.

Right now I'm running the stock TB and LS1 intake, but will be upgrading to an LS6 or a FAST intake.

I know I'll need to flycut, but I would REALLY like to hit over 400rwhp in this car if possible. 450 would be a dream.

What do you guys think?

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

450 may be stretching it but i would go with a cam in the 23x range,maybe a 235/240 or so. are you going to upgrade the rod bolts also or leave the shortblock alone ?

4Birdman

iTrader: (13)

I'm gonna leave the shortblock alone for now. It's got 90k miles and was bone stock and babied when I got it.

PREDATOR-Z

With that year block, you should change the rod bolts. They are prawn to spin rod bearings. Use Katech bolts.

As for cam That is up to you, but unless you want to restall, you should pick a cam that falls in the shift extensions of the stall.

4Birdman

iTrader: (13)

I don't want to bother tearing down this engine just to replace rod bolts. I'll just drive it till it spins one and then replace it with a 402 shortblock.

4Birdman

iTrader: (13)

But in talking with my tuner, we're gonna set up a good cam for my combo once the heads get done.

PREDATOR-Z

You do not need to tear it down. Read this:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/675343-rod-bolt-install-write-up.html

4Birdman

iTrader: (13)

Dur, my mind isn't working right today. I was thinking of the pins that hold ths piston to the rods when I read your post.

Hmmm, maybe I should just do a tubular k-member while I'm in there replacing rod bolts.