YellaTerra install
04-20-2007, 09:33 PM
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Northern WV just south of MD
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
YellaTerra install I am going to be installing a set of YellaTerra rockers. Do i need to put the washer in to get stock hight? Any other help or tips?
Thanks
Thanks
04-21-2007, 08:27 AM
#2
Read the installation directions that came with the rockers...they are very explicit..if you can read and comprehend you will do great by just following the directions..if you have lost the directions go to LS1howto.com and follow the directions on there for instalation of yella terra rockers ... nuff said ..
04-23-2007, 09:13 AM
#3
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Northern WV just south of MD
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In the directions it said that the washers that was supplied is need in some installation. Is the LS1 one that need the washer?
04-23-2007, 09:21 AM
#4
Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
In the directions it said that the washers that was supplied is need in some installation. Is the LS1 one that need the washer?
Yes they are talking about the install on a LS1 if you read the instructions you will see if you need to use it or not.
04-23-2007, 11:29 AM
#7
Ok dude here is how you do it..if you can't figure it out after reading this you need to sell your car and ride the phuchin bus because your to dumb to own a LS1 powered car.. 
Now, grab a yella terra rocker pair, 2 yella terra pedestals, and 2 shims from the box. Push the stock bolts through the top of the rockers down through the bottom, place the rocker pedestal over the threaded part of the bolt and butt it up to the bottom of the rocker. The skinny part of the pedestal goes towards the rocker arms. For now, leave the shims off
Now, remember that one cylinder you made sure had both valves shut? Well, install this rocker pair onto that cylinder. To keep the pedestal from falling off, you'll need to hold it as shown in the image....thumbs against the rocker arm bolt heads, index fingers holding the pedestals up, and then manually line up the 2 bolts with the 2 bolt holes.
Note: If you have ported heads, you may want to place some locktite on the bolt threads before install to help the intake ports seal. For stock heads, locktite is less needed.
Once the rockers are sitting in the right place, use a 10mm socket and extension but NO SOCKET WRENCH, and finger tighten the rocker arm bolts until both of the bolts get too tough to spin with 2 fingers. You can take your index finger and try to spin the pushrod under the rocker arms as well, and it should have some friction on it and just barely spin, if spin at all. This is called "Zero Lash" and it is where there is no preload on the lifters....the lifter is touching the pushrod, the pushrod is touching the rocker, and the rocker is touching the valve, all without putting any pressure on the lifter.
NOW, get your socket wrench out and attach it to the 10mm socket+extension you were using. Without turning the bolt AT ALL, place the wrench in the 12 o'clock position. What we have to do is count the bolt turns until the instant the bolt gets hand tight. Turn each of the two bolts 90 degrees clockwise, then set the wrench at 12 o'clock and repeat (do each bolt one 1/4 turn, and keep alternating).....each 1/4 turn per bolt seems to equate about 10-12 thousandths preload (this is a very rough guess!).
If you get MORE than 1 full 360 degree turn on each bolt, remove the rockers and install the shims on the bottom of the pedestals and repeat this process to check the new preload. The shims seem to reduce the turns by approximately 270 degrees. You must install a shim on BOTH bolts, not just one or the other. If you got LESS than 1 full 360 degree turn then you are ok to leave the shims out!
Every car will be different so make sure you check this! You want the smallest number of turns you can get, as long as you have at least 1/4 or 1/2 full turn of preload in there once you are all setup. If you get to the point where the bolt is tight yet you can still spin the pushrod (without using shims), then your pushrods are either too short, your valves are too short, or you have some strange valvetrain geometry. You MUST have some preload or it will be OBSCENELY loud and run very poorly. Longer pushrods may fix your issue in this case.
Now that we know if you need the shims or not, we don't need to do ANY of that legwork above on the other 7 cylinders...we can just throw the rockers on and go (either using the shim or not, depending on what you found out above). So, do just that....bolt up all the other 7 pairs of rockers (if you have ported heads, you may want to use a little locktite on the bolt threads). Remember, since these other cylinders are in totally random positions, it is 100% normal for the rest of the rockers to compress some valve springs as you start to tighten the bolt down, since these valves aren't all shut. Using a small socket wrench, tighten all these bolts down. You should be able to feel when the rocker seats itself as the bolt will stop turning if you are using a small socket wrench.
Once the rocker arms are all seated, get your torque wrench out and set it to 22lb/ft and torque all 16 rocker arm bolts to 22lb/ft. Go over the bolts a couple times to make absolutely sure they are torqued to spec.
Now, grab a yella terra rocker pair, 2 yella terra pedestals, and 2 shims from the box. Push the stock bolts through the top of the rockers down through the bottom, place the rocker pedestal over the threaded part of the bolt and butt it up to the bottom of the rocker. The skinny part of the pedestal goes towards the rocker arms. For now, leave the shims off
Now, remember that one cylinder you made sure had both valves shut? Well, install this rocker pair onto that cylinder. To keep the pedestal from falling off, you'll need to hold it as shown in the image....thumbs against the rocker arm bolt heads, index fingers holding the pedestals up, and then manually line up the 2 bolts with the 2 bolt holes.
Note: If you have ported heads, you may want to place some locktite on the bolt threads before install to help the intake ports seal. For stock heads, locktite is less needed.
Once the rockers are sitting in the right place, use a 10mm socket and extension but NO SOCKET WRENCH, and finger tighten the rocker arm bolts until both of the bolts get too tough to spin with 2 fingers. You can take your index finger and try to spin the pushrod under the rocker arms as well, and it should have some friction on it and just barely spin, if spin at all. This is called "Zero Lash" and it is where there is no preload on the lifters....the lifter is touching the pushrod, the pushrod is touching the rocker, and the rocker is touching the valve, all without putting any pressure on the lifter.
NOW, get your socket wrench out and attach it to the 10mm socket+extension you were using. Without turning the bolt AT ALL, place the wrench in the 12 o'clock position. What we have to do is count the bolt turns until the instant the bolt gets hand tight. Turn each of the two bolts 90 degrees clockwise, then set the wrench at 12 o'clock and repeat (do each bolt one 1/4 turn, and keep alternating).....each 1/4 turn per bolt seems to equate about 10-12 thousandths preload (this is a very rough guess!).
If you get MORE than 1 full 360 degree turn on each bolt, remove the rockers and install the shims on the bottom of the pedestals and repeat this process to check the new preload. The shims seem to reduce the turns by approximately 270 degrees. You must install a shim on BOTH bolts, not just one or the other. If you got LESS than 1 full 360 degree turn then you are ok to leave the shims out!
Every car will be different so make sure you check this! You want the smallest number of turns you can get, as long as you have at least 1/4 or 1/2 full turn of preload in there once you are all setup. If you get to the point where the bolt is tight yet you can still spin the pushrod (without using shims), then your pushrods are either too short, your valves are too short, or you have some strange valvetrain geometry. You MUST have some preload or it will be OBSCENELY loud and run very poorly. Longer pushrods may fix your issue in this case.
Now that we know if you need the shims or not, we don't need to do ANY of that legwork above on the other 7 cylinders...we can just throw the rockers on and go (either using the shim or not, depending on what you found out above). So, do just that....bolt up all the other 7 pairs of rockers (if you have ported heads, you may want to use a little locktite on the bolt threads). Remember, since these other cylinders are in totally random positions, it is 100% normal for the rest of the rockers to compress some valve springs as you start to tighten the bolt down, since these valves aren't all shut. Using a small socket wrench, tighten all these bolts down. You should be able to feel when the rocker seats itself as the bolt will stop turning if you are using a small socket wrench.
Once the rocker arms are all seated, get your torque wrench out and set it to 22lb/ft and torque all 16 rocker arm bolts to 22lb/ft. Go over the bolts a couple times to make absolutely sure they are torqued to spec.
Last edited by slt200mph; 04-23-2007 at 12:09 PM.
Trending Topics
04-23-2007, 01:00 PM
#8
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Northern WV just south of MD
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You say that the washers set the preload. Some one else told me that that washers set the valve wipe. Which is it. What I wanted to know is do LS1 use washer or not for stock replacement?
04-23-2007, 01:48 PM
#10
Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
You say that the washers set the preload. Some one else told me that that washers set the valve wipe. Which is it. What I wanted to know is do LS1 use washer or not for stock replacement?
04-23-2007, 02:20 PM
#11
Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
You say that the washers set the preload. Some one else told me that that washers set the valve wipe. Which is it. What I wanted to know is do LS1 use washer or not for stock replacement?
GO TO THE BUS STOP ...
... wait for the short bus ... 
Last edited by slt200mph; 04-23-2007 at 02:27 PM.
04-24-2007, 10:50 AM
#14
This is planet earth calling!!!!...You have to put the rockers on and see if you need to use the spacer (washer) ... cars are different..it is not one phuchin size fits all.. .. read the phuchin directions dude...no never mind ... get on the short bus and forget about it...
.. read the phuchin directions dude...no never mind ... get on the short bus and forget about it...
04-24-2007, 01:05 PM
#15
Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
This should not be so hard. For the stock set-up on a LS1 should I use the washer or not. Does any one the answer?
04-24-2007, 01:26 PM
#16
Originally Posted by SSblack98
How many phuchin (I like that word by the way) times are you going to ask the same question that has already been answered 3 times...LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the kind words sir...it is obvious that this guy is an escapee from the short bus...retarded maybe...a slow learner ... I'm 100% sure on that ...
04-24-2007, 02:02 PM
#19
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It depends.
Follow directions on "howto"
Look at wipe pattern on valve.
Is wipe pattern centered on stem? Yes or No?
If yes no washer needed.
If no then washer needed.
Follow directions on "howto"
Look at wipe pattern on valve.
Is wipe pattern centered on stem? Yes or No?
If yes no washer needed.
If no then washer needed.
04-24-2007, 02:58 PM
#20
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Northern WV just south of MD
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey SLT so do dont know if u need a washer for a stock engine, and you dont know if if the washer sets the preload or the valve wipe. What do u know? Can you read? You also dont know when people make fun of you. I think you are the retarded and a slow learner. Do you know anything?