5.3 block question
#6
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Fort Rucker
Posts: 607
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a offset grinded crank with forged rods and crank, that equals a 360ci, I can t decide on a iron or aluminum block?
Bo so it should only be 150 or so to get the block bored?
Bo so it should only be 150 or so to get the block bored?
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vance, Alabama
Posts: 2,357
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Some shops charge more than others, $150 would be the minimum. Changing cranks does not warrant line honing, swapping caps or swapping over to studs from bolts does....as does wear/misalignment.
#11
It's highly recommended that you get the block checked out after a drastic bore. I'm surprised you haven't been assaulted yet...maybe the elders are tired lol.
I have a 5.3L in my RX7 and as far as I've seen from what I've read, manufacturers do their best to cheap out on everything, including blocks with more meat between the bores than the min req'd.
This, along with the extra cost, is why shops recommend getting your block "magnafluxed" after it is bored.
I think you should do what everyone else does...spray your setup until it blows up and get a built motor.
I have a 5.3L in my RX7 and as far as I've seen from what I've read, manufacturers do their best to cheap out on everything, including blocks with more meat between the bores than the min req'd.
This, along with the extra cost, is why shops recommend getting your block "magnafluxed" after it is bored.
I think you should do what everyone else does...spray your setup until it blows up and get a built motor.