5.3 block question
I have a offset grinded crank with forged rods and crank, that equals a 360ci, I can t decide on a iron or aluminum block?
Bo so it should only be 150 or so to get the block bored?
Bo so it should only be 150 or so to get the block bored?
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Some shops charge more than others, $150 would be the minimum. Changing cranks does not warrant line honing, swapping caps or swapping over to studs from bolts does....as does wear/misalignment.
Originally Posted by Bo White
Some shops charge more than others, $150 would be the minimum. Changing cranks does not warrant line honing, swapping caps or swapping over to studs from bolts does....as does wear/misalignment.
Sweet, thanks for the reply bo.
It's highly recommended that you get the block checked out after a drastic bore. I'm surprised you haven't been assaulted yet...maybe the elders are tired lol.
I have a 5.3L in my RX7 and as far as I've seen from what I've read, manufacturers do their best to cheap out on everything, including blocks with more meat between the bores than the min req'd.
This, along with the extra cost, is why shops recommend getting your block "magnafluxed" after it is bored.
I think you should do what everyone else does...spray your setup until it blows up and get a built motor.
I have a 5.3L in my RX7 and as far as I've seen from what I've read, manufacturers do their best to cheap out on everything, including blocks with more meat between the bores than the min req'd.
This, along with the extra cost, is why shops recommend getting your block "magnafluxed" after it is bored.
I think you should do what everyone else does...spray your setup until it blows up and get a built motor.


