In the middle of installing heads, have questions
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In the middle of installing heads, have questions
I am in the middle of installing my heads and have a couple of questions. I rented a power steering pump pulley puller and figured it out and started to try and pull it off, started to get hard so I put more in to it with a larger wrench and it made a loud pop so I stopped, it didnt seem to even move the thing at all so I put the installer on it and snugged it up. so was that something breaking or is a 7 year old pulley that has never been off unseating?
It may just be easier to slowly take it off with the pulley still on it like ls1howto says to do it, but to do that I would need to take off the water pump which is no big deal but I jsut want to make sure which way sounds the best
Next the driver side header: got it off and am trying to sort of lay it out of the way but the steering colum is in the way. do I take out the shaft? and to do that do I take out the top bolt and the bottom bolt too or just loosen the bottom one and does the hole shaft come out.
So please help with the questions if you can
Thanks
-Mike
It may just be easier to slowly take it off with the pulley still on it like ls1howto says to do it, but to do that I would need to take off the water pump which is no big deal but I jsut want to make sure which way sounds the best
Next the driver side header: got it off and am trying to sort of lay it out of the way but the steering colum is in the way. do I take out the shaft? and to do that do I take out the top bolt and the bottom bolt too or just loosen the bottom one and does the hole shaft come out.
So please help with the questions if you can
Thanks
-Mike
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The popping on the pump is normal when removing the pully, it will do it pretty much til the pully comes off. Get behind that thing with a box wrench, no need to use the puller!!!
As for the header... zip tie it or something, just push it out of the way, it shouldnt be in the way of unbolting the heads, you shouldnt need to take the steering shaft out, just work around it.
As for the header... zip tie it or something, just push it out of the way, it shouldnt be in the way of unbolting the heads, you shouldnt need to take the steering shaft out, just work around it.
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I just removed my heads this past weekend. I needed to move the headers out of the way in order to get to the bottom 15mm bolts. I took my jacl and used it to lift the headers up and out of the way. Not too much force but just enough to move the headers far enough to unbolt the heads. No problem!
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Number one, you can take the power steering pump completely off with the pulley attached without removing the water pump. I always take it off with the pulley still attached as opposed to pulling it, but to each his own.
As for the headers, it will depend on the brand. You're better off than I was since you got them off the rest of the exhaust. My Pacesetters were completely jammed into my exhaust and could not be removed without actually cutting the exhaust apart. So for the driver's side I had to remove the steering linkage and use a prybar to muscle the header out of the way to get to the bottom head bolts. On the passenger side I had to slide my floor jack under the header and jack it up to clear the head bolts.
If you have to remove the steering linkage, you will need to completely remove both bolts before you can pull it out.
As for the headers, it will depend on the brand. You're better off than I was since you got them off the rest of the exhaust. My Pacesetters were completely jammed into my exhaust and could not be removed without actually cutting the exhaust apart. So for the driver's side I had to remove the steering linkage and use a prybar to muscle the header out of the way to get to the bottom head bolts. On the passenger side I had to slide my floor jack under the header and jack it up to clear the head bolts.
If you have to remove the steering linkage, you will need to completely remove both bolts before you can pull it out.
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Originally Posted by Silverhawk_02TA
Number one, you can take the power steering pump completely off with the pulley attached without removing the water pump. I always take it off with the pulley still attached as opposed to pulling it, but to each his own.
As for the headers, it will depend on the brand. You're better off than I was since you got them off the rest of the exhaust. My Pacesetters were completely jammed into my exhaust and could not be removed without actually cutting the exhaust apart. So for the driver's side I had to remove the steering linkage and use a prybar to muscle the header out of the way to get to the bottom head bolts. On the passenger side I had to slide my floor jack under the header and jack it up to clear the head bolts.
If you have to remove the steering linkage, you will need to completely remove both bolts before you can pull it out.
As for the headers, it will depend on the brand. You're better off than I was since you got them off the rest of the exhaust. My Pacesetters were completely jammed into my exhaust and could not be removed without actually cutting the exhaust apart. So for the driver's side I had to remove the steering linkage and use a prybar to muscle the header out of the way to get to the bottom head bolts. On the passenger side I had to slide my floor jack under the header and jack it up to clear the head bolts.
If you have to remove the steering linkage, you will need to completely remove both bolts before you can pull it out.
Yea I got the linkage out and the header moved over, I did take the water pump off (gaskets is like 6-7 bucks and its only 6 bolts) and taking the power steering pump off with the pulley on was so feakin easy!! it only took about 5 mins!! so the real PIA was the dip stick for the trans but I got it.
now I am scraping the head gasket off and little parts of it fall into the water jackets, so I stopped, do I need to put paper towels in the holes?
and whats the best way to get the coolant out of the bolt holes?
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a drinking straw "modified" to fit on a shop vac....(the big braums/mcdonalds straws work the best) works great for sucking out the bolt holes. then i spray a little brake cleaner in them let them set a few hours then i suck them out again. then i blow out the holes with the air compressor just to verify nothing is left in there.
Im in moore if you need some more info on the "modification" lol.. just takes a little imagination.
also i have the hawk tool for reinstallation of the crank and a pushrod checker if you need them. (might as well get some use out of these things!) just pm me.
later
Im in moore if you need some more info on the "modification" lol.. just takes a little imagination.
also i have the hawk tool for reinstallation of the crank and a pushrod checker if you need them. (might as well get some use out of these things!) just pm me.
later
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my cam is a 238/242 .605/.610 110+2 and the heads are PRC LS6 stage 1 heads not milled.
so my PTV clearence should be fine (they were with the stock heads) and I think my 7.400 pushrods will work
and I am doing this swap with the motor still in the car, its a pain but not to bad I am a little sore.
Thanks for the offer.
you should check out our local club for LSX cars www.okgmp.com
so my PTV clearence should be fine (they were with the stock heads) and I think my 7.400 pushrods will work
and I am doing this swap with the motor still in the car, its a pain but not to bad I am a little sore.
Thanks for the offer.
you should check out our local club for LSX cars www.okgmp.com