CRZY747

Okay here is my delima, I have a 98 SS camaro, ready to build a short block, going to get new heads and cam in the process to match

Lets see what your ideas are say from 346 to 396 how cheap can you build it just short block forged rods and pistons don't matter compression as I will be wanting to shoot say 300 or so of direct port or mayb 250 shot on a 346 not woried about the fuel pump and all that I have all bolt ons and ford 9 and th350 so just give me you combos and what you paid for the short block

Really want to be able to run some 9.s and work for lower 9's in the winter

JET

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

If you're serious about the spray, stay with a well made 346 rather than trying to low budget a 396.

dug

iTrader: (10)

ported heads offer the least bang for the buck. Build a 6.0l nitrous motor with a huge cam, forged pistons and rods would be the cheapest route

CRZY747

Okay here is what I want what will it cost for a forged 346 , stock crank build bottom end to handle a big shot, and say the cost to do a 6liter truck block what would the differece be

JET

CRZY747

Okay so there is no tech in ls1tech is that it, I mean common it is a simple question, build a shortblock, what route would you go or have gone


JET

Vents

iTrader: (9)

"ported heads offer the least bang for the buck. Build a 6.0l nitrous motor with a huge cam, forged pistons and rods would be the cheapest route"

yeah that was my sentiments. i've got less than 2k in my entire longblock. and it's all forged.

Skelton

If you are looking for mid 9's, you should build in some reliability. I would go iron block, stock crank(forged would be a better choice though) esp rods/arp rod bolts minimum and some thick top ring land nitrous pistons(flat tops). Definately stud the block. You will need good head flow for that kind of power so go with some stage 3 ls6's and o-ring them. The cam needs to be setup with nitrous in mind and I would recommend solid roller. Thats about as budget as you can go and be reliable except for the heads and roller cam.Not sure on the cost of the above but it should give you an idea of the parts needed.Your exhaust system will need to be up to the task as well as the trans,rear and chassis.

BIGBOS

I would defiently do the 6.0L iron block, I'm going to be using my stock crank w/that block for a 12psi boost setup...

CRZY747

Cool that is what I want ideas of what it will take to get 9's, I have enough money to do what I want but want some sort of budget to it, just trying to weight the difference of hp per $ and what it is going to be worth going bigger than 346,

Okay my idea is to do a 346, diamond nitrous pistons, forged rods, stock crank, absoulute or teas heads, g5x2 cam and maybe a 200 shot

most cars with similar set up are 450 or so na, and 200 shot would be close to 625 or so, would that be fast enough to get a 9 though ? with say a car that weight about 3000 with me in it considering I only weigh my self 140 wet LOL

JEt

Krazy98Z28

iTrader: (12)

ARE has a 346 street eliminator short block that u can upgrade to ARP main studs and Lunati Rods, It comes with Ross pistons and ARP rod bolts. Its not a very expensive shortblock, You can order it minus the cam which brings the cost down.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Here's how I look at it, I don't just say 6.0 block and blah blah blah.

In my mind, to go say 9.70-9.99, I think you'd want either a 10 second NA car that you can spray a 150 shot to go 9's or you want a low 11 second car that you spray 200-225.

Me personally, I'd shoot for around 11.25 NA, and then I would spray it.

To me it's a tradeoff. If you run strong on motor, you can probably just spray 150 wet into the intake.

Now if you have an 11.25 car and you want to run 9.80's., I think you need to do a 346ci with all the good stuff, maybe a 6.0 block with the same stuff, and a 200-250 direct port setup... Maybe try the NOSzle setup.

IMO if you run like 11.5-11.7 you would have to spray like 300 to run 9's and it might take a long time to dial in that much spray.

In a 346 - 6.0 setup, I'd run ARP main studs, heads studs, I'd pick a valvetrain setup that was setup to spin to around 6600-6800, and I'd run an excellent fuel system.

You could also do a stroker and run less camshaft and keep some weight in the car, some strokers run low 11's@12_mph very easily and can be driven every day.

I would not reccomend spraying an all bore unless you have an excellent relationship with your engine builder and you and they are prepared for all eventualities.

Do some research into safe AF ratios as well. I know what's safe for FI, but not for nitrous. The trick to some of these setups is not to extract every little bit of power but to build a setup that you can race all year and freshen up when you feel like it.

Vents

iTrader: (9)

i agree. low 11's on a setup geared and tired to see 9's is the way to go. a 4:30 gear and a 28" tire would be an ideal, with a nitrous hit added, just remember that if you want to see 9's, the car has to be setup to run it.

the tune on the suspension/plugs/fuel/ect.. has to be setup to run on the bottle, and still hit low 11's na. basically a 10 second motor car thats de-tuned, for the jug.

the stock crankshaft is good for 9's so i see no reason to change it. if you've ever seen a Ross pistion, you know that they dont have good nitrous ringlands, they're pretty shallow. Diamond's are more acceptable but most of the parts like solid rollers, adjustable rockers, o-ringing the block, studs ect... are all nice to have but not absolutely necissicary. it can be done for less, so why bother just because it's nice to have? it's gonna cost ya extra money anyway, but some just like to have the extra insurance. but to each his own.

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Care to elaborate on that one PSJ? I don't know see why a few all bore "bad apples" have to spoil it for the whole barrel. So some big bores leaked in the beginning because it was a fairly new process, I think nowadays big bores are much more reliable than they were. That being said my 388 (4.125" bore) has had zero issues, and has my daily driver up until 2 weeks ago when I bought a beater. I plan on spraying a progressive controlled 175 shot on it after get some really good n/a times. I've talked with my mechanic and many others that don't see a problem with spraying a big bore. I personally think it just goes along the lines of the myth the big bores in general aren't reliable.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

It's going to depend, so far I am seeing a number of dry sleeve big bores do okay...

But in some cases you can only go so big on the bore before the liners are too thin and the setup won't really be able to survive any detonation.

My main point is that someone has to run low 11's on motor so they don't have to spray like a 300 shot to get well into the 9's.

Now the big inch guys in some cases have different goals... a guy with a 427ci might be looking for low 10's on motor and high 8's on spray.

CRZY747

Thanks John for the reply, I think that your right build a 346 to run Na pretty good, say 10:90 or lower and hit a 150-200 should hold with the right parts, I am thinking about 3k for the short block or so depending on parts, so maybe some of you can help me with part #'s and ideas on what it should cost

JET

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

10.9 NA with a 346...

I'd say:
3.905 bore pistons, $500?
6.125 rods, $500 with ARP L19 rod bolts?
balance rotating assembly, $250?
hone and machine the block, $200 or less?
assemble the shortblock, $200-300?
ARP main studs, ???
ARP head studs, ???

I think $3K would get you a decent forged shortblock. Just add $2000 for a stroker crankshaft.

I reread your first post, and a 300 shot is best done with a direct port.

CRZY747

I definatly agree John with the direct port that is the direction I am leaning, thanks for the help and other suggestions

JET

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Now, I have a lot of friends and acquaintances out there in LS1 world, and I have seen folks running high 10's to low 11's with anywhere from a 220//112 cam to a 230/112 cam.

If we assume you are less than 3400 raceweight, I think that a cam in the 224 or higher duration can make the right level of power.

Any NA 346ci that can trap 120mph or higher at 3400 raceweight is very interesting.

I've seen a comp 224/228//114 run 11.6@116mph with no weight reduction and on Nitto's, and a stock 3.42 gear... But I once saw Angie run 10.8 with her 220 cam but her car is hella light.

CRZY747

Yes the car will be gutted, I have a friend here that runs 10:80 on a forged 346 car weight is 3300 with him in the car, so I have just been researching on if I should go with a bigger motor if it is worth the extra money

JET

boos2

JET,

I thought you were selling the SS and getting a Z06. You gonna keep it now and make a track car out of it?

Mike