bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Just got my 408 running. At the same time I put in an oil temperature gauge and water temperature gauge. The water temp gauge reads right at 200* which is slightly less than the OEM gauge.However the oil temp reads, after some acceleration, like 270*, but with moderate driving 240*. I've got a '04 Vette which has a oil temp gauge and I think it only reads slightly more than the water temp. It's raining today so the Vette is garaged. Is 270* too high or am I being overly concerned??

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

You sure that gauge is right? Where is the sender mounted? I've never seen my oil temps climb above 220F, and that's beating on it in 100*F+/high humidity conditions.

Matt2105

iTrader: (4)

You sure youre talking about an oil temp gauge or do you mean the gauge thats built into the dash because thats not oil temp.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Yes, 270F is too hot.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

I'm talking about my Autometer oil temp gauge mounted in my a-pillar pod.

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

being that it is a fresh motor, it might be normal for now. with and iron block, fresh bearings, nice tight tolerances, etc... i would say 230-250*F would be normal.

couple of questions:
what weight oil?
where is sensor located? IE, near headers, y-pipe, etc...

with the increases in heat being produced from a larger cubic inch iron motor, and assuming stock radiator, the oil is having to pull more of the heat off.

if i remember tomorrow morning, i'll take my infared temp gun and check mine when i get to work.

Black C5 Z06

I've never seen mine go above 225*
And that's what I keep up in the DIC at all time is Oil Temp

ss dave

Oil needs to be between 215-245 for optimum results. 270 would be too hot and would break down the benefical properties of the oil.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Not for synthetics.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

If you cant get your temp any higher than that after beating on the car, then you need to get your gauge checked.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

It's an Autometer gauge on the A pillar along with a temperature gauge. The odd thing is that the temp gauge is staying right at 200*. The sender is installed at the oil filter, near the headers but I don't think close enough to be effected by their heat. If it isn't raining tomorrow I'll take my Vette out and see what it's gauge reads. Also I may give Autometer tech support a call if I have the time.

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

dunno about regular driving, but f-bodies without oil coolers get 300* oil temps in road racing. synthetics don't break down like conventional either. if u are worried, u can put in an oil cooler. search on frrax for oil coolers

ur coolant temps sounds about right. 200* is about common with fan reprogramming.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

I don't know what this blanket statement means. It is my understanding that engine clearances are @ their optimum @ 100*C or 212*F in most production vehicles. For this reason, manufacturer suggested engine oil viscocities are @ their optimum @ this same temperature or there abouts.

I'm not suggesting that synthetics would be damaged in some way @ greater temperatures. I am saying that manufacturer suggested oil viscocities would be thinner than optimum @ 270*F.

There's no dispute that racing oils...etc., can handle the temperature & maintain their proper viscocity.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Ok, thought you were just saying that the oil couldnt take it. Most people dont get into the clearences, and with that I do agree.

I didnt run an oil cooler, and I knew in the texas heat my oil was in the high 200's, so I ran 15w-50 M1 performance driving formula. Latley I havent been able to find it tho.

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

i hardly drive more than 15miles a trip but mine stays right around 190-200. and it actually takes most of the trip to get it there. i use 0-40 mobil 1 and my sensor is installed in the plug right above the filter. i have a stewart warner gauge though.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Gauge works just fine thanks, an infrared thermometer aimed at the sending unit was within 5*F of the gauge....and my "beating on it" may be different than yours, I'm talking a couple back to back runs at the track. BTW, this is with gc 0w30 and ect temps of 178*F, sender mounted above the oil filter.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

I talked to Autometer this morning, a guy named Corey, who used to be an installer, says oil temp should be the same or less than coolant temp, unless you are like in a road race situation. I jacked up the car and my Jet Hots are within 1 1/2" from the sender which I think could mess up the sender, but Autometer says it won't. If this wasn't a new engine I wouldn't have posted but this really seems strange.

The next step is to check the ohms on the sender to see if it's working OK, which I think it is. The funny thing is from a cold start the coolant temp immediately goes to 200*, obviously because of the thermostat, but it takes like 6-8 miles for the oil temp to get to 240+*.

I went over to Lowes this morning and got a piece of aluminum sheet and will make a heat shield. If that doesn't work to keep the temps down, then maybe there is another problem.

Thanks again for the input.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i thought oil temp was usually around 20-30 * warmer than coolant temp ?

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

It is...

& jimmy98LS1, my oil temp never goes over 220-225*F hot lapping on a road course; similar to what you've seen. Your cooling system is set up just about as good as it can be.

The proper t-stat, radiator size, fan settings, & water pump flow go a long way toward good engine heat control.

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

as promised, i checked mine with my infared temp gun. this was as soon as i parked the car and shut the car off.

coolant temp = 190-200*
block temp just above oil pan = 200-210*
oil pan = 190-200*
ceramic coated header tube closest to oil pan = 270-300*
oil filter = 230-240*

so, to me it looks like the sender, which is just above the oil filter, is getting some extra heat from the headers.