Looking for more then the TR224
08-15-2007, 11:52 PM
#1
Looking for more then the TR224 Well I was about to pull the trigger on the TR224 on 114lsa for my CTS-V when I thought why not go a little bigger. So I was recommended this one.
230/234 592/598 114 lsa What do you guys think about this guy. Im running all the needed mods for good power, stock LS6 heads. I also heard good things about a 228 cam. Little feedback guys
230/234 592/598 114 lsa What do you guys think about this guy. Im running all the needed mods for good power, stock LS6 heads. I also heard good things about a 228 cam. Little feedback guys
08-16-2007, 12:36 AM
#4
12 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ed Curtis custom designs a 236/242 on either a 110 LSA or 112 LSA. This will make great peak numbers as well as power throughout the entire RPM range from around 2500 and up. Check out this cam, aka the "Street Sweeper" at Flowtech Induction (Ed's company). Good luck.
08-16-2007, 08:57 AM
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Phila, Pennsyltucky
Posts: 1,520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Blow03SS
man that 228R sounds nice! Can anyone give me some feedback on that cam with a 114lsa? Trying not to have a huge chop on the idle this is why Im leaning towards 114. 588 lift is not crazy.
Trending Topics
08-16-2007, 09:06 AM
#8
Originally Posted by Blow03SS
yeah I know, but I am looking for something bigger. One of the guys on the ZO6 board is running a 232/240 .595/.608 114 with nothing more then LT's and making 425HP. Same motor same mods as me.
08-16-2007, 11:17 AM
#10
If your not going to use the tr224 then you need to go above 234 on the duration to get the bigger cam with better peak results you think your looking for. The TR224 is about the best all around cam on the market today. It will produce more hp and torque under 6000 rpms than any cam bigger than it.
Honestly when your talking about a 224 or a 228 your spliting hairs and moving your powerband up the rpm cycle. A 238 cam will not hit at 2400 rms I can guaranty that. IT will hit around 3500 - 4000 rpms
Big duration moves the power up the rpm range plain and simple. The best off the shelf street cam is the tr224 112 lsa
a 224/228 cam is very good as well, It's an AFR speced cam for their 205's.
Honestly when your talking about a 224 or a 228 your spliting hairs and moving your powerband up the rpm cycle. A 238 cam will not hit at 2400 rms I can guaranty that. IT will hit around 3500 - 4000 rpms
Big duration moves the power up the rpm range plain and simple. The best off the shelf street cam is the tr224 112 lsa
a 224/228 cam is very good as well, It's an AFR speced cam for their 205's.
08-16-2007, 01:20 PM
#11
12 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Talk to some engine builders or performance shops about your goals. Remember that peak dyno numbers don't really tell the whole story. Power under the curve and track times tell the real story. I would take dyno results on this forum (or any forum for that matter) with a grain of salt. There are many tricks that can inflate numbers on a dyno. I would talk to some local guys that are running bigger cams to see what they are putting down and running at the track. Good luck.
08-16-2007, 02:26 PM
#12
I'd say go for the 228 or even the F11 as others have suggested. Good all around cam, though a tune is mandatory once you up from a 224.
I too have been recommended eithe a single pattern 228 from Comp or a split 228/230 from Comp. Depending on which heads i go w/, we'll see which we go towards. I'm trying to remain around or under 230, i don't want to go too radical.
I too have been recommended eithe a single pattern 228 from Comp or a split 228/230 from Comp. Depending on which heads i go w/, we'll see which we go towards. I'm trying to remain around or under 230, i don't want to go too radical.
08-16-2007, 02:44 PM
#13
Im not concerned with the track, as this is not a drag car by no means but I will have it on the road track at times. While I do not disagree that the TR224 is a awsome cam I was just thinking that a 228R will give me just a little more so why not run it. You figure my car running around the track will be in the 3500 to 5900 rpm range for 15 minutes at a time. Then I have to add in that its still going to be a DD.
08-16-2007, 09:44 PM
#14
11 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,728
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Blow03SS
man that 228R sounds nice! Can anyone give me some feedback on that cam with a 114lsa? Trying not to have a huge chop on the idle this is why Im leaning towards 114. 588 lift is not crazy.
08-16-2007, 09:57 PM
#15
I said I would like something a little bigger then the tr224 and that the 228R sounds nice. How did you mess that up? The F-11 on a 114 lsa sounds good also. So now Im down to those 2 cams. Im going to try to find some more info on those to see what the torque is looking like for similar moded cars.
08-16-2007, 10:24 PM
#16
11 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,728
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Blow03SS
I said I would like something a little bigger then the tr224 and that the 228R sounds nice. How did you mess that up? The F-11 on a 114 lsa sounds good also. So now Im down to those 2 cams. Im going to try to find some more info on those to see what the torque is looking like for similar moded cars.
I love my F11....BUT one thing I will say is that Futral's customer service sucks ***.
08-16-2007, 10:30 PM
#17
Ill have my car running within the week i hope. I'll be running the 228R and I did A LOT of research. I was in the same spot as you and decided that the 228r was big enough for a starter cam and if i wanted to go bigger in the future i would, but wanted to see how this is first. id rather go to small than to large when dealing with cams.
08-16-2007, 11:51 PM
#18
Find more posts by PatrickG, heres one of his recommendations for example.
Heres another one of PatrikG's recommendations
Originally Posted by Patrick G
If you don't want to spin your motor more than 6300rpm, then you'll want your hp peak to occur at 6000 rpm. This means you'll want an intake valve closing point of around 40-41 degrees ABDC at .050". A 100 shot will want a 4 degree earlier exhaust valve opening point than what works best NA. Keep in mind, most racing from a roll is won when you make the most hp between shift points. Here's something that would maximize hp in the 4800-6300 rpm range (on motor or with a 100 shot).
226/232 .585/.595 111LSA +3
226/232 .585/.595 111LSA +3
Originally Posted by Patrick G
It's very easy to get schooled by people who've made building engine's their life's work. What makes threads like this worthwhile is when you walk away with something that will work for your application. So without getting into any advanced theory, let me give my two cents on how to get that two ton beast moving.
First off, with only a 2400 stall and a two ton weight, you're going to want want to limit your overlap to 10 degrees at .050". Otherwise, it's going to be somwhat of a turd below that. My experience with the LS6 intake and LS6 heads has shown me that the sweet spot for hitting the 6300 rpm power peak is with an IVC between 44-46 degrees ABDC at .050". Obviously, you can cheat that a little by how you position your overlap. By centering your overlap over TDC or slightly to the intake side of TDC, you can still make a power peak of 6300 rpm with a 42 degree ABDC at .050" IVC.
If you're trying to maximize your power under the curve on motor (think heavy vehicle with a tight converter here), you're going to want to have more of your available power at lower rpm. This means not opening your intake valve too early and not opening your exhaust valve too early...both will make your low and mid-range power worse. Also, since the flow of the LS6 exhaust valve coupled to a properly sized exhaust header (like you have), you won't need to close it too late. In your case, you won't need much of a split to the exhaust to strike a happy balance with your more flow-limited LS6 intake/heads.
Here's what I come up with (don't be surprised if it looks familiar).
226/228 .585/.588 109LSA +0
This would work well on motor. 4 degree BTDC IVO, 42 degree ABDC IVC, 43 degree BBDC EVO, 5 degree ATDC EVC. 9 degrees of overlap (all at .050"). 8.54:1 DCR
But if you're still going to run a 200 shot, then this changes things some. Your intake valve events and overlap are still fine, as is your exhaust valve close, but since nitrous speeds combustion a great deal, you'll need to open the exhaust valve much earlier (to avoid pumping losses and get the much larger volume of exhaust out of there). Keeping the same IVO,IVC, EVC and overlap of the NA cam, we would need to open the exhaust valve about 8 degrees earlier for a 200 shot (51 degrees BBDC vs 43 degrees).
226/236 .585/.602 111LSA +2
This would work better with a 200 shot and wouldn't be too shabby on motor. 4 degree BTDC IVO, 42 degree ABDC IVC, 51 degree BBDC EVO, 5 degree ATDC EVC. 9 degrees of overlap (all at .050"). 8.54:1 DCR
While the Engine Masters may be able to shoot holes in my recommendations, they will work very well for your mods and goals.
First off, with only a 2400 stall and a two ton weight, you're going to want want to limit your overlap to 10 degrees at .050". Otherwise, it's going to be somwhat of a turd below that. My experience with the LS6 intake and LS6 heads has shown me that the sweet spot for hitting the 6300 rpm power peak is with an IVC between 44-46 degrees ABDC at .050". Obviously, you can cheat that a little by how you position your overlap. By centering your overlap over TDC or slightly to the intake side of TDC, you can still make a power peak of 6300 rpm with a 42 degree ABDC at .050" IVC.
If you're trying to maximize your power under the curve on motor (think heavy vehicle with a tight converter here), you're going to want to have more of your available power at lower rpm. This means not opening your intake valve too early and not opening your exhaust valve too early...both will make your low and mid-range power worse. Also, since the flow of the LS6 exhaust valve coupled to a properly sized exhaust header (like you have), you won't need to close it too late. In your case, you won't need much of a split to the exhaust to strike a happy balance with your more flow-limited LS6 intake/heads.
Here's what I come up with (don't be surprised if it looks familiar).
226/228 .585/.588 109LSA +0
This would work well on motor. 4 degree BTDC IVO, 42 degree ABDC IVC, 43 degree BBDC EVO, 5 degree ATDC EVC. 9 degrees of overlap (all at .050"). 8.54:1 DCR
But if you're still going to run a 200 shot, then this changes things some. Your intake valve events and overlap are still fine, as is your exhaust valve close, but since nitrous speeds combustion a great deal, you'll need to open the exhaust valve much earlier (to avoid pumping losses and get the much larger volume of exhaust out of there). Keeping the same IVO,IVC, EVC and overlap of the NA cam, we would need to open the exhaust valve about 8 degrees earlier for a 200 shot (51 degrees BBDC vs 43 degrees).
226/236 .585/.602 111LSA +2
This would work better with a 200 shot and wouldn't be too shabby on motor. 4 degree BTDC IVO, 42 degree ABDC IVC, 51 degree BBDC EVO, 5 degree ATDC EVC. 9 degrees of overlap (all at .050"). 8.54:1 DCR
While the Engine Masters may be able to shoot holes in my recommendations, they will work very well for your mods and goals.
08-16-2007, 11:54 PM
#19
well i dont think the F-11 is a huge step above the 228R cam. I will how ever just use the specs off of the F-11 and have comp cut me that cam if I go that direction. I found a killer deal on custom grind and PR springs and gaskets. So I need to get it ordered. If the car pulls over 400 then so be it but if not Im not loosing any sleep over it. Thanks for the help
08-17-2007, 02:32 PM
#20
Well it just so happen that someone on the board here was selling a F-11, the only downside to the cam is the LSA is 113. I wanted a 114 but I think if I raise the idle a little it will help out the amount of chop it has. So Im hoping this thing will do me right and I will have to make sure that the guys at Harris Speed Works tunes it just right for me. I hope to have a good DD with this cam. If it surges at all or acts up and it can not be tunned out, then the cam is coming out...period.
Any guess on what the car will put out? Dynojet numbers
LS6
Stainless Works LTS
Random Tech Cats
Magnaflow Cat back
CAI
F-11 Cam
Any guess on what the car will put out? Dynojet numbers
LS6
Stainless Works LTS
Random Tech Cats
Magnaflow Cat back
CAI
F-11 Cam