LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Its been so long since I asked questions here...

Okay so we just dropped the engine..

should I know any torque specs? crank pulley? head bolts? etc?

head / cam from tsp stage 2.5 5.3 heads and tv3 cam...

Im gonna also change the lifters, ported ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain, and yt rockers...

I need to soak the caddy lifters in oil the night before..

anything else I should remember? any speccial torque specs. or in fact any torque specs would be helpful.

thanks

Red2000SS

Read this - lots of very good info.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=3

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Yes thank you... I am using those instructions somewhat..

now I have the:
headers off
intake manifold off
valve covers off
rocker arms and pushrods off
heads off and crank pulley off..

tomorrow morning Im gonna take off the timing chain, oil pump and cam and replace all 3 with new ones...

Only problem is my rockers still havent came in

so I may reuse them.. My lifters are being soaked right now as we speak..

Okay 3 questions please.

#1 there is carbon deposits on my pistons(normal)... should I attempt to clean them off? the mechanic keeps telling me to leave the pictons alone, I dunno why? but I think it would e better to clean the carbon off the flat tops of the pistons... why shouldnt I?

#2 I broke the plastic case for the knock sensor where the wires go into. The knock sensors are fine, but the orangish/light brown platic case that looks like a solenoid cracked on both of them... where can I get these? dealer? and do I even need new ones? there are bushings protecting oil from gettting in there... also Autozone had the knock sensors only... but not the solenoid looking things...

#3 ... I forgot what #3 was. Ill write if I remember.

thanks a lot.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Oh ya...

NGK Tr55, should be gapped at .060 on stock LS1s.

what should they be gapped at for a 10.75 cr engine with ported heads (5.3 stage 2.5 from TSP) and a bigger cam(Tv3). vs stock 241 castings and stock LS1 cam that only has a 10.0 :1 cr.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

OMG I need answeres by tomm morning pls!!

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Bump!

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I cleaned off my carbon with a razor blade. I brought each piston to tdc and scraped them clean. Just do not gouge the cylinder wall. I dont know the answers to the other two.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Im running into another problem...

I have a powerbond 25% underdrive pulley...

The crank has a pin/keyway, whatever its called that the crank sprocket groove slides in but the pulley doesnt go in, because the keyway isnt long enough for the pulley groove to sit in..

did this pulley always never sit in the groove or did we do something wrong..

we put some shims for the ported ls6 oil pum because without the shims the timing chain would contact the oil pump.. also the sprockets and timing chain are double roller, vs the old single roller. but the overall lenth seems to be the same..

so what I think is the crank pulley groove doesnt even sit in the crankshaft keyway. even though it looks like it should..

but I need to know for sure.

I talked to texas speed and they arent sure. but it may be I cant explain the parts correctly...

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

another thing is....I have a damaged groove I can feel with my hand on piston #6.. its not on the edge, so Im hoping I should be fine..

I wonder if this was a valve contact area once when I mis shifted from the top of 3rd gear , back to 2nd, instead of 4th...??

its less than the size of an average pinky nail ( length) and seems to be only a couple thosandths of an inch deep.. shouldnt be bad, since peopel flycut their pistons. maybe maximum the thickness of a business card.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I had problems with that double roller and had to get a single. I got the Cloyes hex a just. I'm not familiar with the underdrive pullies.

My double roller also contacted the timing cover. My vote is to order the cloyes or if you are crunched for time, go to the dealer and get a ls2 chain.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

If your crank snout has a keyway or is drilled for a pin it was intended for F/I(belt driven) use, but your running N/A aren't you. The sprocket that drives the oil pump/cam chain is mated to the crank by a key, but the serpentine pulley is not. Be SURE you get the shim for the oil pump oriented properly with the ports in the pump and block. If you don't get them lined up oil flow will be restricted. Why did you find it necessary to remove the knock sensors for a head/ cam swap? If you had let them alone they wouldn't be damaged. I hope this helps, but some of your questions and explainations aren't the easiest to understand.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

If you havent figured out yet, pictures are worth 1,000 words....

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

yes Im running NA

They keyway is driving the crank sprocket, which the chain rides on and not the pulley, but if this is normal, then Okay.. so the pulley just got hammered on the snout.

The shims should be correct they can only go on one way anyhow..

I dunno why we even took off the knock sensors in the first place. I just need the solenoid looking plastic part that is above/before the actual knock sensor...

Thanks and thanks...

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I think I stripped the platic pushrod guide bolts.. 2 of em, 1 on each side of the block.

why? I dunno..

it said 106 inch lbs which equated to roughly 8.8 ft lbs. I went 8.5 ft lbs and 2 kept spinning freely..

wtf is this ?!

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

It appears you still need help so here goes. The "key" marries the sprocket to the crankshaft. That's "normal" as you call it, but it's NOT normal to "hammer" the pulley on. If you've already got it on it's too late to tell you how to do it the correct way. The shim can NOT only go on one way. You're either 100% right(lucky) or 100% wrong. The hole in the drivers side shim is SLIGHTLY offset from center. You might get it right by dumb luck, but if you don't the offset is going to cut the oil flow down quite a bit. If you can live without knowing you installed it correctly don't worry about it, but when you spin a big end shell you'll wish you had checked to be sure it was oriented properly. What the hell are the plastic pushrod guide bolts you said you stripped? You got me on that one. When you're talking inch pounds you using a 1/4" drive at most and barely that. Inch pounds means you screw the fastener with your fingers till it bottoms then snug it a little bit to keep it from backing out nothing more than this or a stripped fastener will result especially if it's made of plastic.

Red2000SS

I think he is maybe talking about the pushrod guides, which are plastic - the bolts are metal.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

The only thing plastic I know of on the inside of the LS are the plastic lifter retainers or the knock sensors. I don't think he's that far into the engine at this point. If he's talking about pushrod guide plates used on adjustable lifters like the Comp Pro Mags he is over his head judging by the trouble he's having and the way he describes his handywork. I don't know about any plastic pushrod guides.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Ok what part goes on before the heads, there is 1 for every 2 cylinders, and the pushrods slide through it.. but before the head? its where the lifters sit. The bolts that tighten those. 2 of the bolts freewheel. They should be fine though..

The spacers/shims for the oil pump can go on only onw way for all the bolts to line up correctly... Ye sthe drivrs side shim has 3 holes and one is slightly offset, so for it to go on correctly, it can only be on one way... or the bolts will not align properly...

you dont need to use a 1/4" drive for inch lbs Im using a 1/2" torque wrench with a 3/8 adapter to use all my bolts...

Also how did you guys torque your crank pulley bolt?

and thanks for all the input.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Also... how was I supposed to put the pulley in? we used a wood block and hammer to press it back in. In chassis and transmission rebuilding, this is perfectly acceptable.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

There is a special tool($44) to push the pulley on. That's the best way. You can also use a longer crank bolt(120mm). Others use heat. You can use a 1/2" drive to tighten a fastener that should be tightened with a 1/4" tool, but that's overkill and it also leads to damaged fasteners. You alredy know about that problem. Just because the bolts line up and go in on your pump does NOT mean the hole in the shim is oriented correctly. If you had looked at the block before you installed the oil pump you would have realized the oil port in the block is NOT directly centered between the two bolts that hold the pump in place. The hole is slightly offset so the shim MUST be installed to align with the offset or oil flow will suffer. I think your talking about the plastic lifter retainer trays. Did you strip the bolts themselves or the threads in the block? If the bolts are damaged you can just replace them. If the block is damaged I'm not going to advise you on that one. To tighten the crank bolt you lock the crank(you choose the method) and then turn the bolt as tight as you can. I slide a piece of pipe over a long 1/2" breaker bar. The extra length allows more torque to be applied. You should avoid using a 1/2" drive to do EVERYTHING. Just because you have the adapters doesn't mean you should do something. Hell you could use enough adapters and tighten a 5/32" nut with the 1" square drive rachet. Does it make sense to do this? Hell no. Sure you can do it, but look at your results. Damaged and stripped fasteners and threads. Use a small tool on a small fastener. You'll be glad you did.