Lifter Retainer Modification
01-20-2008, 11:18 AM
#1
Lifter Retainer Modification During my recent head/cam install, I modified by lifter retainers by drilling 1/2" holes to help expedite oil drainage to the sump. I found that using a Unibit provided a perfect method to drill the holes without cracking or compromising the strength of the retainer. The holes come out perfect.
Here's what they look like:
Here's the Unibit that I used, I marked right above the 1/2" step with a black marker so I would know when to stop drilling:
Here's a close up of the holes:
Here's what they look like:
Here's the Unibit that I used, I marked right above the 1/2" step with a black marker so I would know when to stop drilling:
Here's a close up of the holes:
Last edited by 405HP_Z06; 03-26-2008 at 05:40 PM.
01-20-2008, 11:31 AM
#4
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o well then im gonna do it to mine since i got it out
if they said stick a potato in the air box to go faster i would probly do it
they build some badass stuff
if they said stick a potato in the air box to go faster i would probly do it
they build some badass stuff
01-20-2008, 01:00 PM
#6
The top picture shows a drilled retainer v. an undrilled retainer.
Sorry for the confusion.
01-20-2008, 01:00 PM
#7
After spinning a lifter in its bore, I bought a new set of lifter trays and planned to do this mod. Then I read somewhere that it works well in a dedicated race environment, but not as well on the street. I went the following method because it wasn't my daily driver at the time, but that changed a month later. No problems so far, but the heads have to come off to change the cam.
mod
Installed
mod
Installed
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01-20-2008, 01:04 PM
#8
After spinning a lifter in its bore, I bought a new set of lifter trays and planned to do this mod. Then I read somewhere that it works well in a dedicated race environment, but not as well on the street. I went the following method because it wasn't my daily driver at the time, but that changed a month later. No problems so far, but the heads have to come off to change the cam.
mod
Installed
mod
Installed
Don't know if I can mention them, so PM me for more info.
01-20-2008, 01:10 PM
#10
Could you explain for the people who don't know what a rev-kit is? I assume you put that in and don't use lifters? Wait, that can't be right. Is it similiar to this?
http://www.airflowresearch.com/hydra_rev.php
http://www.airflowresearch.com/hydra_rev.php
01-20-2008, 01:21 PM
#11
Yes, same premise. Keeps the lifter on the lobe via the helper springs. When I spoke with Tony Mamo at PRI, he liked the idea of the rev-kit for the LS1 also. Others suggest they are bandaids for other valvetrain components which aren't setup correctly, such as valvespring pressure.
I had to shave down the underside of the top a bit so it would fit flush against the head, but there are shims included. IIRC, I shaved it the same amount the deck was surfaced, .020.
I had to shave down the underside of the top a bit so it would fit flush against the head, but there are shims included. IIRC, I shaved it the same amount the deck was surfaced, .020.
Last edited by JimMueller; 01-20-2008 at 01:38 PM.
01-20-2008, 01:21 PM
#12
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Could you explain for the people who don't know what a rev-kit is? I assume you put that in and don't use lifters? Wait, that can't be right. Is it similiar to this?
http://www.airflowresearch.com/hydra_rev.php
http://www.airflowresearch.com/hydra_rev.php
Yea thats a rev kit for a SBC. This is the first I have seen in terms of a rev kit for a LS1, and its pretty interesting. From what I understand is that a rev kit helps control the lifters without adding spring pressure to the valve and pushrods. From the looks of it the lifter trays were scrapped to place the rev kit, yes?
Deffinatly want to hear more about where you got it, looks like something a lot of people would be interested in.
01-20-2008, 01:45 PM
#13
Yes, this kit replaces the lifter trays. Bolts to the stock tray mount location. Needs to fit firmly flush against the underside of the head so that it doesn't rock. As I said before, once this is installed, you can't keep the lifters up for a cam swap, so the heads must come off to change the cam. Most around here aren't interested in that extra work 
Kit cost $425 last summer. I already gave Aaron the URL to the vendor, but will post it if a moderator says its OK. Some more pictures...
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Kit cost $425 last summer. I already gave Aaron the URL to the vendor, but will post it if a moderator says its OK. Some more pictures...
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02-08-2009, 07:58 AM
#18
