LS1AC-Cobra

yesterday I've put in my new Rollermaster double roller chain and a Melling HV Oil pump, now the cover has a gap of about 1/16" to the block, anybody did that install before and can tell me where to take off some material?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Is the spocket/gear which drives the dual chain and oil pump seated FULLY home? If not you could get this result. There's a boss on the crank that the back face of the sprocket/gear bucks up against when it's fully home. You won't be able to see this with the pump mounted. When you drove the sprocket/gear home were you able to "feel" or "hear" that it was home? I use an old sprocket/gear tuned around backwards to drive the new one home. I use a block of wood and hit the block until I hear a thud and can feel that it has reached home. 1/16" is a lot. You need to go back over your work.

bad rock

I had the same problem with the slp oil pump and dr, called the tech line and they told me to remove the oilpump spacer plates. I was worried bout clearance issues but it worked out fine

Guacamayo

iTrader: (1)

This buddy is right, your gap is enormous, try pushing everything as far as possible or you'll have to cut through your cover and im not joking, I did my installation and didn't have a problem, I used a double rollmaster and a ls6 ported tsp pump and just hit both a lot until it I felt they were all the way in, then I reassembled and there wasn't any problem at all, good luck pal

PD. I even used the spacers and had no problem

fossil

iTrader: (1)

I ran into the same problem on my build. I used the same double roller and pump that you have. I Machined about .060" off the Melling pump cover and had to grind a little off from the front cover where the oil pump bolts where hitting.

LS1AC-Cobra

ok, the 1/16" gap is without the gasket, i think with the gasket in between its only half of that. I'm pretty sure that the sprocket is sitting all the way back on the crank. I already had to grind off a little at the back of the Pump, cause the chain was touching it.
I took a bit off from the cover where it was touching the pump, but I think I have to weld a piece of aluminum on the outside cause its very thin now, maybe I also need to put the pump cover on the lathe and take some off there too....

the red coloured section is where I think I need to machine a bit off:


this is where the cover touched the pump:


this is where the chain was slightly rubbing on the pump housing:


this is where I dremel'ed some off the cover:

fossil

iTrader: (1)

Did you use the shims for the pump? I used them. The red circle around the pump is where I removed .060" to clear. Then I did some removing on the cover and that worked for me.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Put dykem on the inside of the front cover, and put the cover on without a gasket. Only use a few bolts to align the cover properly, and wiggle the cover to mark where the pump is hitting. That's where you remove material.

This is what we do with our Melling M295 pumps, but I don't think an LS6 would be too much different. If you take out your pump spacers, the pump may not clear the crank sprocket.

LS1AC-Cobra

fossil: yes I have the spacers installed, without spacers the pump would'nt clear the chain at all

KCS: thats exactly what I did, think thats the only way to find out where you have to shave off some of the cover...

I'm running this pump for about a year know, had absolutely no issues with the stock single row chain, since I changed my cam and upgraded to stronger valve springs I thought it might be a good idea to use a double row chain.
should have listened to the folks here and used a single row LS2 chain....

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

A little off topic, but do you have any pictures of the Melling OP body with the gears removed?

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

If you are running an underdrive ballancer,it needs to be clearanced the same thickness as the oil pump shims or else you will have an interference fit with it and the oil pump.
.125 off the snout of the ballancer.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

this is "normal"

with these parts, make sure you clearence (grind) the lettering off the backside of pump, were the chain passes it. And also the inside corner on the pickup tube buldge. You need to run the spacers.

you already found that corner on the front of the pump case across form the pump outlet passage into the block. Take the pump back off, and grind the corner down you marked. That will grinding the cover like you already did will take car of that spot. You shouldn't have to grind the pump cover at all. It will be close in the cover, but just grinding the cover a little clearns that.

Next youll think it close the the bolt heads that bolt the pump to the block. But normally thats fine. The cover will hit them slightly with no gasket, but the gasket is enogh.

You don't have to do anything do your crank pulley snout. the pump drive gear is the stock lenth, so the snout seats fine.

Some of your pics arnt showing up also.

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

i had to do it on my car too...stock pump but ground the cover in about 3 places...

DaveX

Double roller = overkill and a potential pita to install. Take it back off and get a LS7 chain and gears.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

im running into this same thing-i am using a melling 296 pump, and comp cams double roller chain-i am about 1/8" away, and i think the gasket is something like .070 uncompressed-it looks like the stock pump with spacers may clear, or a single roll chain with the pump and w/o spacers might clear-i think the melling pump is about .080" thicker than stock-at least its on the engine stand, so its easy to mess with

Raven02TA

iTrader: (11)

im in need of switching back to a single roller from my rollmaster, know of where i can order the ls7 chain/gears from. (will work on ls1 i assume?)