ammuscleftw

As stated i just recently had the heads and cam swaped. I had no engine noise prior to the swap. I had personally put 15k on the car and never heard much of anything. After the swap i have what most would say is the O so hated "LS1 ticking". I have ported stock heads, hotcam, new ls7 lifters, new ls6 oil pump, and new waterpump. I do not have a PR checker but the setup came with 7.350 CM pr's. Just by feel these did not seem the right length(too much play and wear pattern was off). I had to use the stock PR's for the time being. From what ive read on here most have been using 7.425 PR's with a aftermarket cam and stock heads. I have also seen that the ls7 lifters are supposedly needing a slightly longer rod due to the change in design to get the correct preload.. That is my first concern the second is that a lifter was installed not facing the oil port or not pumping up... The noise i get is suttle at idle and is kind of a slight knock and you can barely hear it. during normal cruise under a load it is noticably a tick. When i give it WOT or close to it i really dont hear it. but whenever I let off the gas and there is no load I can really hear a ticking and it follows the rpm range. I have checked the plugs and headers for leaks and have not found any. and it seems to be coming from the drivers side. I am hoping you guys have some insight because i am not sure at this point and I really dont like having a shop or myself rip into my motor unless im pretty sure what is wrong. So far it drives with no problems(no oil press issues, or metal in oil) but I know the noise should not be there.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

First off it does not matter what direction you install the lifters as long as the roller will roll along the cam lobe. That means you can install it 2 direction, each 180 degrees out from each other. Thats simple.

The first thing you need to do is get a pushrod checker and measure what you need, then add your preload to get desired length.

You could also possibly have a busted rocker arm.

ammuscleftw

ok so being that the lifters are new and im having no noticable issues there.. you think it might be the rockers/ PR length? The rockers that are on it right now came on the heads that i put on and are factory from a different car.. So i should put back on my original rockers and make sure i have the correct lenth PR's? Any input on how to make sure i get the right preload on the ls7 lifters? I have seen conflicting statements about that on here because they are different then the ls1 originals. I use a pr checker and add the preload is what im told but how does one add the correct preload with the ls7 lifter? Also does anyone else want to chime in on this with any suggestions on what the noise im hearing might be?

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

Those pushrods are definitely too short. Do like brad8266 says, measure and get the exact length you need.

ammuscleftw

Even if its not whats causing the noise its obvious that my PR's are probably not the correct length. i figured id have to replace those PR's, especially now after what you guys are saying and what ive read. I will put my set of rockers back on as well since i know those were good. I really hope its not a lifter after i do all this.. Pulling the heads are a PITA. Whats the proper preload to add for an ls7 lifter after using the pr checker? Also does anyone have a link for a place to get good PR's and the checker? If anyone else want to state their .02 feel free ill take all the comments i can get. I like many of you love working on the car and learning more about it but hate checking and rechecking things over and over only to still be frusterated lol.

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

Can't stress enough the importance of proper valve train geometry & the wipe patteren must be right on as well as the preload. Some good advice above.

dbuie

Not sure that this applies to your car but I recall while researching CAM installs it mentioned that ticking can occur if you took off the air check valves and didn't replace the gaskets with new ones or else the old ones were damaged. It is mentioned here:

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...g_and_wire.htm

ammuscleftw

My headers do have the AIR ports on them but they have blockoff plates and new gaskets. I have checked for leaks there and on the headers/plugs but i cant totally see under the headers so it is a possiblity its leaking there but the sound im hearing definately sounds like valvetrain on the drivers side or at least the top of the motor.. not exaust. although any leaks can be very misleading and sound like its coming from somewhere that its not lol. I agree with lewis and the others above that the correct setup on the valvetrain is very important. I do not doubt that may be the problem. Even using the tips ive found on here and doing it myself its hard to make sure its right on. Thanks for the suggestion though thats what im looking for and the more the better. Any one have a link to a vendor that has the pr checker and pr's for our cars? I want to do this this weekend and at least get that out of the way to see if it does anything with the noise.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Thunder Racing has what you need. Improperly sized pushrods can be a very bad thing.

There is more than one way to “correctly” determine the proper pushrod length. Click here for the method I used.

ammuscleftw

thanks bsf for the info! I am ordering the checker tomorrow. Just for giggles... even with the stock length pr's installed and the valve at rest should the rocker be able to be wiggled a little and pr's be spun fairly easy? thats what it was like when i took out the 7.350 cm rods and put the stockers in and checked it... im assuming no but just thought id ask