Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

I have the Comp R lifters and need to know how many bolt turns its supposed to take to reach the right preload. I did a search and found the 1 turn before it seats, then to 22 ft. lbs. Is this correct??? I have 7.4 pushrods, non milled heads (I believe), and LGs G5X2 cam.

I keep reading the search topics and confusing myself I guess its because Im sick

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I see you

slobra281

iTrader: (1)

Peak a boo. :p

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Oh damn!!!! I was hoping noone local would see this

quickWS6

I thought the Comp R lifters liked zero preload?

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

turn until there is no valve lash.....then just another 1/4 turn.... must be at top dead center of each valve to set correctly...do one at a time...make sure you are centered or you will not get proper install.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Thats good for a SBC, but the LS1 has to have the bolt torqued to 22 lb.ft. no matter what the lash ends up You have to shim the whole rocker assembly or change the pushrod length to work

You can use 0 lash but it will sound like a sewing maching. Ive been told that .010-.020 is perfect.

jmX

1/2 to a half turn will be fine. I ran compR's at 50+ thousanths preload and they worked just the same btw. No change in noise or performance. <shrug> I had a whole bunch of different pushrods so I tried different preloads to see if it mattered.

Chris99WS6PWTMET

I installed my Yella Terra's with no shims on Comp R's w/ a TR224, 7.4 PR's, and milled .015 heads. After a few WOT runs it sounded as it lifters were collapsed. Talked to Comp Cams and was told I had WAY too much pre-load. I installed the shims provided by Yella Terra and the "collapsing" lifter noise went away but it is one noisy *** valve train now. I'm wondering if I should try some shims of different thinckness now to try and get it a little quieter (if thats possible).

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

What do you use to shim the stock valvetrain??

I got the Comp Rs so they dont bleed down in the upper RPMs (6800-7000) Itll be a couple weeks before I can get the YTs to get the preload right and want to make sure I dont hurt anything

Larry

iTrader: (4)

You can calculate number of turns required to get your .010 or .020 preloading.

I don't know what bolt thread size our heads have but if it's 5/16-24 for example then divide 1" by number of threads per inch = 1/24 = .0417 per turn. For .020 then divide .020 by .0417 = .48 turns or right at 1/2 turn.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

WOW... that just confused the hell out of me right after I woke up

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Finger tighten rocker arm bolt until you can barely spin the pushrod with one finger. This is the "zero lash point" where there is no preload on the lifter. Now torque the bolt counting turns until the instant the bolt stops turning with the wrench. If you get more than one full 360* turn you must install shims. Now torque the bolt to 25 ft-lbs if using Yella Terras, 22 ft-lbs for stock rockers. 1/4 turn = 10-12 thou of preload, so that's how much you want for Comp R's.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

I say drop the car off with Al. He will do you right..

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

Call Brandon too.. I know he wants to help you..

Larry

iTrader: (4)

What size thread are our rocker bolts. I'll calculate turns for what ever preload you want.

All I'm doing is dividing the number of threads/inch into one inch to see how far one turn compresses the lifter. With one turn known you can then calculate the portion of a turn required to compress number of thousandths desired.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Thanks guys, I just wanted to make sure 1/4 turn (very rough guess) is a ballpark. When I get my YTs, then Ill caheck it with a dial gauge to get it exact

Vince... Im more that capable of building my own motor

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

Carl I could have built a 100 unit apartment complex by now.. What is the hold up man?? I am getting a little tired of beating the same people in our area.. Hurry up and get your car done so I can smack you around as well. Oh yeah, I heard you mentioned that the reason you got rid of your TEA heads were because YOU think they are subpar heads.. Hmmmmm. How many slow TEA headed cars in our area..? Ford or GM.. Pls do not take any of my comments the wrong way.. You know I do not mean any harm.. I am just hyping up a kill story, I mean race..

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Hey Vince.. Parts cost money and Im not a big baller like you I was doning good for a long time to not get my stuff repoed. The economy is in the toilet and my job was also

LOL about the heads... Let Al know that I had to sell them along with other stuff to pay bills man, thats all.. I dont think of them as "subpar" persay, but I learned some things that arent public and they are going to stay that way I got a set of heads matched for setup, not just an off the shelf CNCed head. Like I said before Im not bashing Brandons work. He does good work, especially his exhaust work

Also, bring it tall one. Itll be a long time before I can lay into it as Ill need a dyno tune and fix a few things I want first

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

You mean I have to wait longer to run you???? I asked you a long time ago why you were getting rid of the heads and you gave me a brief scenario on how you felt about them and that you just flat out needed the money. Two weeks ago while at our speed proving grounds a discussion about local h/c packages came up and someone in our group brought up YOUR thoughts about TEA heads. I had plans of asking you about it then, but never got around to it. I see this post about your cam choice and I am like he had the PERFECT HEADS for that cam.. Why do I need to let Al know about your financial status? Were you thinking of using Brandon and his services? I do not even know all the particulars. I only know what you tell some of the peeps on Badrap.. Brandon knows he does good work. He has many cars out there to prove it.. We all know you are going to come out with something.. I am just surprised it is taking you so long.. No one is doubting your ability to get the job done, we are just waiting on you to get the job done.