RyanSws6

iTrader: (72)

I've done some reading and found a similar cam to my LT1. Its a 228R camshaft 228/228 .588/.588 114 LSA. I like the LSA.

So can I get by with my Stock converter?

Also can I put down 400rwhp with that cam with all the normal boltons?

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

u should really do a converter before a cam!! u might actually be slower without a stall. do stall first. it will really wake up your car. or if u can, save up to do the stall/cam together.

RyanSws6

iTrader: (72)

I still want dravability and right now I'm gathering parts for a complete rebuild. The trans is next. I just don't want too much cam surge.

Well thinking a bit more. Since I'll have the eng out a TC swap is right there. I don't want to get too much into trans talk since I'm in the eng section but a 2600-2800 might be nice. I know TCs kill your gas and this is why I converted my WS6 to M6 but I want an A4 as a daily.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

honestly, if i were you, i would spend the money and build up your tranny first if it was me and throw in a stall the same time. that way, you dont have to worry bout your tranny failing once u do a cam swap.

tuning will take care of your cam surge. a vig 3200 or yank 3600 stall with that 228 cam will make for a good daily driver setup man.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

ive got the 228R on a 112lsa and i promise it will pull through your stock tc.

I was REALLY worried about getting a stall at first to but I had performabuilt make me a 9.5" race stall (3000rpm stall).

It drives really smooth, very close to stock and it doesnt pull through the brakes or anything. But when you mash the pedal it will send you slingshotting down the road.

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

I've done the 228R on a 114 in stock verter cars. It's definately the limit of what I'd try with a stock verter, but I've had many vette owners do it with good results. It could be done no problem, but ultimately a verter will make you a lot happier!!!

RyanSws6

iTrader: (72)

Thanks so much guys. The main reason I swaped my LT1 A4 to M6 was due to the limits on TC thus limiting the cam choices. This is why my 383 will have a GM847. Besides I now feel that is the best thing I did for an LT1.

I'm glad the stock TC will be ok. I'm not planing any track times with that trans until its rebuilt. Correct me if I'm wrong but this set up should net 400rwhp. Oh the rotating assembly will be balanced. I just got my new ls6 pistons today and rods are on the way so I can work on those and just have the crank balanced.

My goal is a quite, smooth 114lsa, n/a respectable ride that can pull maybe 11's.

Hybrid86Z

iTrader: (2)

Jason, thank you for your words. I think I now found my next camshaft for the '02

johnLs1camaro

iTrader: (28)

i had a 224/230 cam on 114 and i was on a stock stall and my car ran fine but..it was a lot more badass when i put the stall in,also i think it is smart to build the tranny too cuz i went through my stock one quick but some people will dissagree and say your stock one will hold up,which it might if your smart.. i really didnt loose any drivability by doing a stall..also go 3200 or bigger i promise it really wont affect your drivability

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

I think if you are dead set on retaining the stock converter a 224/224 cam will be a better choice. It will come on earlier and be less surgy with very close to the same peak numbers. Both cams with full bolt-ons will get you close to or right at 400hp and are capable of 11 second timeslips.

RyanSws6

iTrader: (72)

Thanks Jim. I'm not dead set on the Stock TC. I will change it out with the trans rebuild. I'm just worried how its going to work in the period before the trans rebuild.

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

I definately agree if I was staying stock verter I'd go a little bit smaller, but if all your needing to do is deal with the larger camshaft a for a short time with the stock verter than go a little bigger... The 228R camshaft will be driveable with the stock verter, it just ultimately begs for a little bit of verter!

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

im not being a dick but on a stock stall that setup will never see 11s...unless your sprayin it....the 114 will idle smother than the 112 but trust will not idle smooth and will peak higher than your thinking......yeah it will work ive seen a couple guys on here stick the ms4 in front of a stock stall......listen to these guys tellin you to do a stall first get a ss3600 and dont look back......you will see alot more gains from that than any cam....JMO

Paint_It_Black

iTrader: (1)

A stock cam/stalled car will beat your cam/stock stall in a drag race .

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

+1!! i highly suggest going with a beefed up tranny first with a stall. in a way, think i should have gone with a beefed up tranny first. that way i can get on it, whenever i want and dont worry bout breaking anything.

johnLs1camaro

iTrader: (28)

yeah i went with beefed up motor first,and got on my car all the time,and what do you know the tranny went in like a month,so the car was down for a month until i could afford a stall and i built tranny....

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

i don't know how a stock cammed car would beat one with an aftermarket one with the stock stall. i could run mid 13's with LT's, TSP catted Y, and air lid. this was with street tires. i know many stock cars ran this but my car seemed to be a slower one. it only dynoed at 314 with these mods. i then added a TR224 cam, TSP 5.3L heads and a powerbond pulled. i then ran 12.9's. all of this was on the stock stall, stock tranny, stock rear, and the same street tires. i do have a stall going as we speak and i know it will run better with a stall but i can't see it being slower than a stock cam/stock stall car. i realize most of my gains were at higher speeds and rpms. i felt no seat of the pants loss at low rpms. in all honesty i could spin the tires more easily. i am sure the heads helped in my situation too. i am not saying to run a stock stall. i am just saying that i think your car will be faster with a small to medium cam than the stock one, even with the stock stall. with nittos i run consistent 12.6's. i know that is pretty terrible for a 375 horsepower car, but i am running a stock stall. i can't pull better than 2.0 60ft times with it.

Paint_It_Black

iTrader: (1)

Stock longblock cars with full bolt ons are running low-mid 12's very typically, with some breaking into the high 11's. Talking about 300-400hp cars here.. your ET is in your 60ft time. Your 60ft is going to be crap with a stock stall. And his car WILL be faster with a cam and a stock stall thanit is right now, but if he kept the stock cam and put a good stall in it, it would be faster, that's what I'm saying.

Have a look at some of the faster stock heads and cam cars running big stalls:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-results/628613-quickest-stock-internals-list-11-79-bump.html

I've said it before and I'll say it again, the first 2 mods that should be done to an A4 are a Stall and Gears. You won't have a dyno queen, but no one races on a dyno. I'd rather put UP a number than put DOWN a number, you know what I mean?

dca1042

paint it black,youve got it covered,YOU DONT RACE DYNOS......PERIOD................
Our town run about 5.7 stock 99 commodore,(cold air,headers,2500 stall,3.73,bridgestone 225 radials).12.89@113mph,only has 226rwkw,but is fun to drive.
just saying not big power but convertor and gears sure helps.

cheers dave.

vn commodore,iron 427,dd,waiting on street warrior.

Empatho

iTrader: (16)

if you plan on getting the cam, don't waste your time with just a converter get a build tranny 2, because if you get more power you're going to destroy that stock tranny with an expensive converter.