FLA 98TA

Well I am getting ready to order some of my first parts for my new motor. I am buying all new parts for the short block.

I am going iron 6.0L block. A new LS6 or LS1 crank. Diamond -2cc pistons 4.030"(room for rebuild) to 4.060" bore and Eagle H-beam rods 6.125". Ported LS6 oil pump. ARP main studs. Rollmaster Heat treated timing chain set. Comp "R" lifters if I go hydrolic roller.
I am not sure on the cam yet. and my heads right now are 2.02" 1.57" valves shaved for 10.8:1CR I figure these needd work they do flow over <a href="mailto:300@.550"">300@.550"</a> lift and I know they flow to .580" but I think they need to be worked to get some nice <a href="mailto:31x@.61x"">31x@.61x"</a> lift.

I have all the bolt ons and Kooks steped headers.

Anything I am over looking or maybe doing wrong this is kinda a budget build hence the Iron block. Plus I spray a little but it might become more.

Any advice is welcome try not to get me confused on what I want too much. It could slow the urge to build this project.

Thanks,
Darrell

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

main/rod bearings, head studs, and gasket set, that's all i really can think of.

honestly though, i think you could find an ls1 block and do the same things to it for same price, and weigh about 80lbs less. also, if you've ever thought of doing a tubular k-member, now would be the time

blu00rdstr

I agree with above.

Also add pushrods and figure out the length based on head milling and cam. Also what head gaskets you're going to use and thickness, Cometic or stock composite. Stock rockers will look wimpy on built heads.

Some suggested 'while you're at it' updates on; new flywheel bolts, water pump, flywheel, clutch or torque converter, engine mounts, hoses, and belts.

FLA 98TA

Most everytihng else has been replaced I have a twin disk clutch 8k miles on it. I will most likely be using cometics I am still looking for more opinions.

Well if I go Solid rooller roller rockers are a must to adjust valve lash. If I stay hydrolic I will get some rollers down the line.

Like I said budget for now I am starting at the crank and block rods pistons and the heads are going to have to come off the car to be redone so that's last. I have 80k miles on the car. SO this is the alternative to a rebuild. I wanna stay around $3000. And how I priced it bearings, gaskets, machine work and all I can do it.
Thanks for the advise.


BTW LG could oyu reply here. I was talking to you on the phone about my new setup. Well this is what I have worked up. Is this a g5x-2 setup or will you have to go bigger on this motor? Name is Darrell from Florida

FLA 98TA

To
The
Top

FLA 98TA

TTT

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

I would stick to the alluminum block. It can handle the nitrous if you build the rotating assembly correctly. I would say go iron if you were stroking it, but with a stock crank I the power increase isn't worth the weight penality. You can use the felpro head gaskets which are about 50 bucks for the pair on either of these setups. 346 solid roller with nitrous would be a sweet engine combo.

FLA 98TA

Actually I was told the iron block (because I could go bigger bore it would be 370-380ci I believe) I would be closer to 490-520 rwhp instead on 450-480 rwhp with the same setup but stock cubes.

And I am not willing on paying $3000 for just a re-sleeve block when if it has a small problem I am out of a $3000 block.

And as for stroke some don't like stroke motors and I am one of them. Too many reluctor ring troubles stories. And that is an extra $2000 as well. And another thing I was told about stroker LS1's is about the reving. I like to rev high. I hear a 4.00" stroke is not the best to go over 6500rpm. So that's that on getting more cubes from stroke.

I am only expecting the cost of this to be $4000-5000 with every thing lifters cam and all that not $6000 for just a short block.

Thanks for the input though.
Darrell

Colonel

I think you're on the right track for a budget buildup. I would stay hydraulic though. If you willing to go solid then you might as well go with LS6 heads and a custom intake manifold to get the most out of it. You're getting far out of your target price range at this point. But yeah, you could run LS1 heads and an LS6 intake but then you'de be one of the weakest solid roller setups around...and you don't to be known for that do you?

As for a 4" crank not being good for 6500 RPM, well, that's complete and utter Heck, my new C5R engine spins WAAAAAAAAAAAY higher than 6500 (if fact, it spins way higher than 7500) and it uses a 4" stroke.

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Actually I was told the iron block (because I could go bigger bore it would be 370-380ci I believe) I would be closer to 490-520 rwhp instead on 450-480 rwhp with the same setup but stock cubes

Not even close to that power unless you are talking about with nitrous. My budies 6.0 367ci put down 453 rwhp and 429 lbft with an m6, moser rear with 4.33, on street tires tuned. He has all the bolt ons. 500rwhp is more like a 418+ci block. Lunati told me that the only rev limit to my 4.075 crank is the hydralic cam. Just trying to save you from miss information, and let you know that there are always unexpected parts that will bring up the price of a build up.

FLA 98TA

Maybe I will wait two months and get a crank too. Same rods and different pistons right?

Thanks again for the replys and info,
Darrell

Colonel

Yes, you can use 6.125 rods with a 4" stroke with the right pistons.