weeble1

iTrader: (6)

You can use the LS3 map sensor, it would just need to be tuned for it, If you are buying the adaptor plug anyway, you might as well just extend the LS1 sensor to the front. Shoot me a PM if you want to the LS3 adaptor harness. I have one left over from my swap I'll sell you.

I'm not sure why you are using a converter box for the LS3 cam sprocket. You should be able to just buy an LS2 cam gear and use the front cover mounted sensor with an adaptor harness. GM 12576407 if I'm not mistaken. At least that's what I did on my swap.

I used the Gen IV knock sensors on my car and just had the tuner adjust the sensitivity. From what I was reading, that's the big issue with running the block mounted sensors on an ECU tuned for the valley cover sensors.

As far as the T56 questions go, I have no idea as I swapped an 80e into my car.

taws6ali

Hey guys updates and I need help I'm running Into a fuel issue ... Ls3 swap done
I am using ls1: (map sensor, knock sensors, oil and temp sensor)
Linger filter box for cam and crank sensors. I am using ws6 TB with throttle bracket. After a hell of a time making sure all the wires are clear from the headers and making sure I have all grounds in and secure, all following (oil, coolant, power steering, brake fluids are full) the beast Started right up, I ran it till reached normal temperature... My oil pressure dropped to 30psi thought it was fishy I start snooping around only to find out my car is dumping fuel out the exhaust to muffler flange driver side (keep in mind I had a hard time keeping that sucker from leaking near where the head/header mate rtv sealed it as it wouldn't seal all the way Near the front).... An old incident ...after rebuilding my ls1 block and installing it I had the same problem "fuel coming out the exhaust ended up blowing a rid through the ls1 block minutes after a fresh rebuild...long story short I came to the realization that my crate ls3 engine doesn't come with a "on rail fuel regulator" like on my ls1 fuel rail... I've been reading about dealing corvette c6 fuel filter with built in regulator "I would use some Intel on that" would be much appreciated ... And about the fuel leaking out the exhaust is that due to the fur regulator issue or do I have a fuel regulator on my tank ? Or is it ecm/pcm problem? I haven't got it tuned at all (not sure if I have to since I'm using all ls1 sensors or since my knock sensors on the side now it'll be different but I don't think it would cause a fuel issue) this swap is killing me I am close to giving up so I could use all the help I can get thank you in advance guys

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

What year is your F-Body? I've read that the '98s have the regulator on the rail, while the '99+ have it by the tank. Either way, I would definitely get the engine tuned, even if it wasn't puking fuel. An LS3 is a different motor with different demands than the LS1, such as an 800 RPM greater redline. Careful not to light your ride on fire.

weeble1

iTrader: (6)

Get it tuned and make sure you have the correct 02 sensors plugged in. I had a similar issue and it was caused by having the rear 02 plugged in (they were deleted). Stupid mistake on my part. Made sure both front sensors were plugged in and it fixed it.

taws6ali

this info raise my suspicions, I suspected this could cause my issue but still hesitated to do anything about it before getting my car tuned. its hard to say because since I first bought my car it had the rear o2 sensors removed and the o2 sensors on the headers were never connected (with the stock ls1 the car ran fine) after my head\cam\intake mod I started having the fuel dumping issue. now after installing the ls3 I installed 2 bosh front o2 sensors I'm still having the same issue (none in the rear tho is this relavent ? )

taws6ali

its a 1999 so the fuel regulator is in the tank (since I have the ls3 block with the oem fuel rail It doesn't have the ls1 fuel damper on it) also its a return less fuel setup. And the PCV on the driver side is plugged up,i never connected it to the other side valve cover is that a bad idea ?

Jonesj901

Sorry guys I'm new to this but I created an account to ask a question, Wednesday I'm buying a L99 out of a 2012 camaro everything is coming with it, the wire harness computer and transmission, will all of that fit into my 4th gen camaro and if so how fast will my car be

G Atsma

Go to the Conversions and Hybrids section. There is a sticky there pertaining to "LS3 into 4th Gen Camaro" or something like that. L99 is the same thing plus DOD and VVT. Lots of resources here if you look for them.

Jonesj901

I can't seem to find it, i guess I'll just make my own thread hoping I get some answers to my questions

weeble1

iTrader: (6)

Read the first post on this thread. All the information you will need is in there.

G Atsma

(slaps forehead...)

blackbird-ls1

iTrader: (3)

I just got done building and putting a ls3 418 into my 99 TA. It's a brand new 6.2L block with an eagle stroker kit with mahle pistons. It has GMPP cnc ported ls3 821 heads. a ported ls3 intake with 90lb. ls3 style injectors. I changed the injection connection plugs to newer style. Yella terra rockers and hardened push rods. I also used newer coils. A Mark Williams 90mm throttle body. I used all new sensors throughout the motor. I got everything connected and changed over. I removed all the ls1 smog equipment and knock sensors. I also did not connect the rear set of o2 sensors. The computer has not gotten a tune yet. When I try to start it pops and coughs but does not start. I am not sure where to start on how to diagnosis this. I know the lines on the timing chain lined up. The only thing I can think of is the coils are possibly not in order. But I have been told that does not matter. Or that the computer needs a tune with all the changes. Any positive help would be greatly appreciated as I am at a loss as where to start.
Thanks!

RGSS

iTrader: (2)

Three things to check:

The coils must be connected to the proper PCM connection in order to provide proper spark firing order.

If your injectors sat for a long time they are probably not firing.
Even if you do not have a tune yet, the engine should start.

You should be getting RPM readings while cranking the engine if your Crankshaft position sensor is in order.

blackbird-ls1

iTrader: (3)

The coils are plugged into the right connection. The original plug connections for the coils. I am wondering if I could have the connections reversed maybe? The injectors are new never been used before. I will check the rpm gauge tomorrow. thanks

weeble1

iTrader: (6)

Did you convert to a 24x reluctor? Are you using the correct cam sprocket? Reluctor wheel and cam sensor/sprocket can cause those issues.

blackbird-ls1

iTrader: (3)

I have a 24X crank, ls2 timing set and just converted to the front cam sensor. Still the same problem. I also noticed the rpm gauge is not moving. I have the black crankshaft sensor. It's a AC-Delco unit. Can it be the problem?

weeble1

iTrader: (6)

Tack not working points to cam sensor issues imo. Make sure you have the 1x cam sprocket and not the 4x. Correct part number is 12576407.

blackbird-ls1

iTrader: (3)

I have the 1X half moon/circle ls2 cam sprocket. did not know their is two! I heard that my cam sensor harness could be wired backwards. It a fairly common problem.
thanks

weeble1

iTrader: (6)

Cool. The sprocket got me when I was putting mine together. The sensor certainly is a common issue. Post up if you make and progress.

blackbird-ls1

iTrader: (3)

I put in the cam sensor. Had to reverse the two outside wires, it had a code for it. I also got a code for the crankshaft position sensor. Put in a new one. no more code. Put in knock sensors and switched out to 60lb injectors. I do plan on running nitrous once the motor is broke in. It still will not start!!! It coughs and pops a little acts like it want to start but nothing! I am not getting an codes other than for the emissions I pulled off. The tach still does not move. I don't know what else to do. I am thinking about sending the pcm to be programmed. Other than that I am going to check the fuel pressure.