Why don't more people run the lsx 454 crate?
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A custom built engine as is from us using the LSX block with say callies products for the crank and rods and a number of different pistons and the GM LSX-LS7 heads would run about the same cost. Including all you see there. It depends on what you want in the grand scheme as to what the total cost would be. Lay it out for me and I can get you a ball park.
Street car ~650 RWHP, (Not really sure what is feasible with a 454)
Keep cost down as much as possible?
Naturally aspirated
#22
#23
FormerVendor
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1. Start with a Gen IV 5.3 block for a few hunderd bucks.
2. Dry sleeve it at ERL or maybe here?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...Q5fCarQ5fParts
3. Buy an inexpensive K1 crank, rods, and some good Wiseco pistons. (their 4.25 crank worked great for me for clearance and balance, we didn't add any weight)
I think this would make for a killer shortblock for the money, I would try to go 4.185" bore, and I'm not afraid of the 4.25" stroke crank, this is the same basic shortblock that was used in the Hot Rod test (resleeved block, 4.25 crank) then spend what you can on heads, intake and suppporting parts.
The 468 in Hot Rod made almost 700 hp with out of the box L92 heads and the Mast carb intake, take away 30 hp for the Fast and you still have a killer engine. Or step up to the Mast heads used in that test or the new TFS LS7 heads and matching Fast intake and your 730 hp at the crank. Mill the heads to 13.5:1 for E85 and make 750 hp It would take at least 750 hp at the crank to make 650 RWHP.
2. Dry sleeve it at ERL or maybe here?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...Q5fCarQ5fParts
3. Buy an inexpensive K1 crank, rods, and some good Wiseco pistons. (their 4.25 crank worked great for me for clearance and balance, we didn't add any weight)
I think this would make for a killer shortblock for the money, I would try to go 4.185" bore, and I'm not afraid of the 4.25" stroke crank, this is the same basic shortblock that was used in the Hot Rod test (resleeved block, 4.25 crank) then spend what you can on heads, intake and suppporting parts.
The 468 in Hot Rod made almost 700 hp with out of the box L92 heads and the Mast carb intake, take away 30 hp for the Fast and you still have a killer engine. Or step up to the Mast heads used in that test or the new TFS LS7 heads and matching Fast intake and your 730 hp at the crank. Mill the heads to 13.5:1 for E85 and make 750 hp It would take at least 750 hp at the crank to make 650 RWHP.
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1. Start with a Gen IV 5.3 block for a few hunderd bucks.
2. Dry sleeve it at ERL or maybe here?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...Q5fCarQ5fParts
3. Buy an inexpensive K1 crank, rods, and some good Wiseco pistons. (their 4.25 crank worked great for me for clearance and balance, we didn't add any weight)
I think this would make for a killer shortblock for the money, I would try to go 4.185" bore, and I'm not afraid of the 4.25" stroke crank, this is the same basic shortblock that was used in the Hot Rod test (resleeved block, 4.25 crank) then spend what you can on heads, intake and suppporting parts.
The 468 in Hot Rod made almost 700 hp with out of the box L92 heads and the Mast carb intake, take away 30 hp for the Fast and you still have a killer engine. Or step up to the Mast heads used in that test or the new TFS LS7 heads and matching Fast intake and your 730 hp at the crank. Mill the heads to 13.5:1 for E85 and make 750 hp It would take at least 750 hp at the crank to make 650 RWHP.
2. Dry sleeve it at ERL or maybe here?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...Q5fCarQ5fParts
3. Buy an inexpensive K1 crank, rods, and some good Wiseco pistons. (their 4.25 crank worked great for me for clearance and balance, we didn't add any weight)
I think this would make for a killer shortblock for the money, I would try to go 4.185" bore, and I'm not afraid of the 4.25" stroke crank, this is the same basic shortblock that was used in the Hot Rod test (resleeved block, 4.25 crank) then spend what you can on heads, intake and suppporting parts.
The 468 in Hot Rod made almost 700 hp with out of the box L92 heads and the Mast carb intake, take away 30 hp for the Fast and you still have a killer engine. Or step up to the Mast heads used in that test or the new TFS LS7 heads and matching Fast intake and your 730 hp at the crank. Mill the heads to 13.5:1 for E85 and make 750 hp It would take at least 750 hp at the crank to make 650 RWHP.
Looks like I need to do more research because I do not know much about these bigger engines.
#29
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I also heard the same thing about the 4.250" stroke crank I put in my LS7 block. I heard it took tons of clearancing (it took me 5-10 minutes) I heard the rods would hit the cam (it cleared by .030" but I opened it up some more) I heard I would need a special small base circle cam (i didn't) I heard it would take tons of mallory heavy metal to balance the crank (i didn't have to use one piece) I heard it would use oil (it doesn't)
I will say...there is a TON in piston skirt design, cylinder hone, assembly lube and the chamfer used on the BOTTOM of the cylinder bore, that's what separates the oil burners from the runners, in my humble opinion of course.
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Woodylyf767 (02-05-2024)
#30
I hear what you're saying Brian. I guess "longevity" is opened for interpretation, right? 2 years 5000mi or 2 years 20000mi .
Its nice to make the investment last, but how many 45X+ builds actually consider "will I get 30k+ miles out of it....?" (Rhetorical question )
I'm sure most builds like these are not daily drivers either so the point in mute. I know I don't intend on driving mine that much...
But as long it's going to last that long....
....it should make enough power to destroy a dyno.
....and get good mpg.
....oh, build it cheap too, I'm on a budget, lol!
Its nice to make the investment last, but how many 45X+ builds actually consider "will I get 30k+ miles out of it....?" (Rhetorical question )
I'm sure most builds like these are not daily drivers either so the point in mute. I know I don't intend on driving mine that much...
But as long it's going to last that long....
....it should make enough power to destroy a dyno.
....and get good mpg.
....oh, build it cheap too, I'm on a budget, lol!
#31
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I hear what you're saying Brian. I guess "longevity" is opened for interpretation, right? 2 years 5000mi or 2 years 20000mi .
Its nice to make the investment last, but how many 45X+ builds actually consider "will I get 30k+ miles out of it....?" (Rhetorical question )
I'm sure most builds like these are not daily drivers either so the point in mute. I know I don't intend on driving mine that much...
But as long it's going to last that long....
....it should make enough power to destroy a dyno.
....and get good mpg.
....oh, build it cheap too, I'm on a budget, lol!
Its nice to make the investment last, but how many 45X+ builds actually consider "will I get 30k+ miles out of it....?" (Rhetorical question )
I'm sure most builds like these are not daily drivers either so the point in mute. I know I don't intend on driving mine that much...
But as long it's going to last that long....
....it should make enough power to destroy a dyno.
....and get good mpg.
....oh, build it cheap too, I'm on a budget, lol!
What kind of longevity can you expect from an lsx 454 ? ?
#32
That's the million dollar question. Per my previous post...what does "longevity" mean....to you? Or to your builder for that matter? One builder may say 20k, another 50k. Conservative build (street), more aggressive (track) are variables.
Only time will tell as more of these configurations live and die over the next couple years. Unless someone else knows right now, I think its hard to put a percentage on successes vs failures for another couple years. IMO, it's going to come down to industry best practices to determine that.
Only time will tell as more of these configurations live and die over the next couple years. Unless someone else knows right now, I think its hard to put a percentage on successes vs failures for another couple years. IMO, it's going to come down to industry best practices to determine that.
#33
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That's the million dollar question. Per my previous post...what does "longevity" mean....to you? Or to your builder for that matter? One builder may say 20k, another 50k. Conservative build (street), more aggressive (track) are variables.
Only time will tell as more of these configurations live and die over the next couple years. Unless someone else knows right now, I think its hard to put a percentage on successes vs failures for another couple years. IMO, it's going to come down to industry best practices to determine that.
Only time will tell as more of these configurations live and die over the next couple years. Unless someone else knows right now, I think its hard to put a percentage on successes vs failures for another couple years. IMO, it's going to come down to industry best practices to determine that.
I would say 100k.
#35
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Have one on order going into a sand rail (dirt dragster). We'll let you know how much nitrous they can take!
With the track only 300ft long its going to take a ton of pass to make the 20k mile warrenty lol.
With the track only 300ft long its going to take a ton of pass to make the 20k mile warrenty lol.
#36
FormerVendor
Yeah, I've heard that too, but I ran a 4.100" stroke crank in a 6.0L block that was bored .070" over and ran it on the street for two years without a problem and without oil issues. A 6.0 block has the shortest sleeve length of any block made.
I also heard the same thing about the 4.250" stroke crank I put in my LS7 block. I heard it took tons of clearancing (it took me 5-10 minutes) I heard the rods would hit the cam (it cleared by .030" but I opened it up some more) I heard I would need a special small base circle cam (i didn't) I heard it would take tons of mallory heavy metal to balance the crank (i didn't have to use one piece) I heard it would use oil (it doesn't)
I will say...there is a TON in piston skirt design, cylinder hone, assembly lube and the chamfer used on the BOTTOM of the cylinder bore, that's what separates the oil burners from the runners, in my humble opinion of course.
I also heard the same thing about the 4.250" stroke crank I put in my LS7 block. I heard it took tons of clearancing (it took me 5-10 minutes) I heard the rods would hit the cam (it cleared by .030" but I opened it up some more) I heard I would need a special small base circle cam (i didn't) I heard it would take tons of mallory heavy metal to balance the crank (i didn't have to use one piece) I heard it would use oil (it doesn't)
I will say...there is a TON in piston skirt design, cylinder hone, assembly lube and the chamfer used on the BOTTOM of the cylinder bore, that's what separates the oil burners from the runners, in my humble opinion of course.
Yep I have been doing all these big stroke 4.100-4.375 stroke engines and for years. You just have to know what you are doing. Some combos are not so good in the wrong block etc. but a lot more work than people think can work as we've already been there done that years and years ago!
People just slap stuff together that have no idea of what they are doing and then complain when it doesn't go together like LEGOs or has other issues. We have half of all the true pump gas hydraulic roller faster cars out there and several luxurious street engines and most have cranks 4.100 or longer in them.
It's free power as long as you have the top end to make it all work. We are doing more 500 inch stuff right now and they will make over 700 RWHP on pump gas and still idle decent and all under 7K rpm.
#38
I bought one
I bought one back in May and just got in started two weeks ago. I bought it because I liked the fact it came with the LSX block and if I plan to go big in the next couple years, I feel like Ive got a block that can handle most anything I throw at it (turbos or supercharger with bottom end work). The heads are nice as well with the 2.20" titanium valves - although I cant find any real flow data on them other that a few claims here and there.
It came with a relatively mild cam 236/246 .648"/.648".
Just to clarify, it did not come with an intake, so you can run FI, or carb....whatever you have. Mine is injected with 50 lb/hr injectors.
I think they may have rated it at 620 HP to keep the BBC572 owners out there happy. We'll see what the RWHP numbers are hopefully within a few weeks. That HP number also is with the GM carb intake- which I dont like.
I went with the bad boy two piece from Cary (now at Mast Motorsports) with a 4500 accufab throttle body and 2" headers. With a loose converter in my full roller powerglide, I'm hoping to make better than 550RWHP still under a 2 yr warranty!. After the warranty or when I need more, I want to throw a big nitrous shot on it but not sure how big. Maybe a 300 shot?
It came with a relatively mild cam 236/246 .648"/.648".
Just to clarify, it did not come with an intake, so you can run FI, or carb....whatever you have. Mine is injected with 50 lb/hr injectors.
I think they may have rated it at 620 HP to keep the BBC572 owners out there happy. We'll see what the RWHP numbers are hopefully within a few weeks. That HP number also is with the GM carb intake- which I dont like.
I went with the bad boy two piece from Cary (now at Mast Motorsports) with a 4500 accufab throttle body and 2" headers. With a loose converter in my full roller powerglide, I'm hoping to make better than 550RWHP still under a 2 yr warranty!. After the warranty or when I need more, I want to throw a big nitrous shot on it but not sure how big. Maybe a 300 shot?
#39
my lsx 454 crate motor block had bad core shift leading to thin clyinder walls. kinda silly that you buy a crate motor, but still gotta check for the crappy blocks.
no wonder ford is taking the lead!~
no wonder ford is taking the lead!~
#40
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First off it come with a DOES windage tray and NO one out there did a longblock for $9.6k shipped no matter what they say. I called up places like TSP and these other big guys you see out there and the cheapest you could get a longblock built with everything you get with the GMPP crate motor you would have to spend another $1000. Granted I could have built something a lot smaller like a 402 but it would not make as much power and be as streetable as a mild cammed 454. Like it was said with the LSX 454 crate motor you change out the cam and port the heads and you can turn this into a more aggressive track motor. GMPP built this as a street engine not a race motor. That's why they have the LSX454r which makes 750hp out the box. The main reason I think people really don't use it is because of lack of accurate information. One guy blows a hole in the block boosting a engine with 11:1 compression to 1000whp tears GMPP a new ******** ALL OVER the net even though Jamie Meyer came out and said they have not tested this longblock with FI and everyone goes the blocks too thin. The block is thin but it's not TOO thin. You either lower the compression and go with a more boost friendly cam or you raise the compression and get a aggressive NA cam and this motor will turn anything into a badass ride.