al3flangy

Hi

I have ls7 block with 4.135 piston and 6.125 rod my goal is big cubic for n/a so that i decied going to 4.125 stroke ! Is there any problem or the 4 inch will be bette ?( Remember i want big cubic)

lil john

U could go up to 4.250 max as far as stroke but only for N/A build Mr. Tooley had that set up and made over 700fwhp.

al3flangy

It will be N/a and street car , am wondering if there is diffrence between crankshafts 24 and 58 tooth which crank shaft will fit with ls7 , my car is ss 2001 , i think 58 will not work with my ss so that i will go with 24 tooth but i dont know if it will fit with ls7 or am wrong

zacht

iTrader: (18)

i think the LS7 had a 'small snout' crank for the dry sump oiling system...either way if your going 4.125 or 4.250 stroke your getting a new crank...also...youll be running a fbody oil pan...and with a 2001, probably want to run the 24 tooth reluctor on the crank...so...basically a (whatever) stroke crank for ls1 (24x)....

al3flangy

Niice so i will go with 4.250 :p 24x tooth on ls7 with ls1 slp pulley and wet sump (fbody) with ls1 double roller and melling oil pump with ls1 timing chain cover ? There is problem ??

zacht

iTrader: (18)

hm...only thing i see is maybe the double roller, oil pump, cover...not sure...i dont run a double...just got the IWIS c5r chain...

look into what double rollers work with what pumps, some pumps need spaced, some covers need clearanced...

al3flangy

Hmmm because i have all ls1 accessory so that i want to put it on ls7 but i dont know what can fit with ls7 or not ? ��

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

you need longer sleeves to run bigger then a 4.0 stroke on an ls7.

lil john

The standard len. on the L7 sleeve is 5.8 you just can't go over 4.130 bore. Same len. as ERL. and by the way the 24 tooth old style cr. wh. is for older model PCM and 58 tooth crank wh. is for newer PCM.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

If you already have the piston, then you need the correct stroke crank to accommodate it. A piston for a 4", 4.125", and 4.250" stroke will all be drastically different from each other for a standard deck block.

The LS1 accessories work as long as you get the snout correct. The LS7 has a longer snout to drive the "dry sump" pump, but you will want to order a shorter LS1 style to use the LS1 accessories without any kind of spacers, etc.

Since the LS7 block is meant for a dry sump, the casting at the bottom will need to be drilled for a dipstick for the wet sump. You may want to leave that up to a professional. The knock sensors and cam position sensors are in different locations as well, so you will need the harness extensions for them.