Honest question for "Pinks" project car
08-01-2007, 07:34 PM
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Honest question for "Pinks" project car Hello, can anyone tell me how much of a hit or an ultimate HP number can the LSx engine take with stock type 6.0l heads in a 383 application as far as the head gaskets are concerned?
Thank you SOOO much!
Thank you SOOO much!
Do you have any more pics/info on your fiero? Sounds sweet.
08-02-2007, 01:59 AM
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Since this is a worthless thread in the wrong section anyways, I sure do 
It is a 88 Fiero GT, factory leather and 5-speed. So the last year Fiero, with a great (If not the best), option package. The stock 135hp 2.8l OHV V6 can't do much very good. It's heavy, unreliable, beyond slow, gets poor mileage, and isn't easy to work on. So I did an engine swap, putting in a brand new 3.4l DOHC V6 from a 95 GTP Grand Prix, which made 210hp/215tq stock, and weighs about the same. From here the engine got torn apart (It's hard to pull a crate motor down to the short block). It got a fully ported/polished set of heads, flowing 325in/227exh at 1/2" lift, 48g lifters (40% lighter than stock), A/C and Power Steering delete, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, Spec Stage III Kevlar 6-puck clutch, Davies Craig Electric Water Pump and Thermostatic controller (To be replaced by a CSR), a 96-97 intake manifold swap (Short runners, much larger plenum volume), a 75mm Northstar throttle body, custom tuned equal length headers (1.75" X 20"), custom Y-pipe (Dual 2.5"), and a 3" exhaust (All ceramic coated). Then added was a Garrett dual ball bearing GT35r, a TiAL Sport 38mm external wastegate, an KKS SSQV blowoff valve, an 800hp air/liquid intercooler, Split Second FTC1 for tuning, flow matched 42.5# injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump, and some other things I forgot. I've done everything above myself, except for the P/P heads. I built the headers, I built the turbo kit, I built the exhaust, I will build the charge pipes, I did the engine swap (Including the wiring harness, custom poly mounts, everything). It isn't done yet, but I started it for the first time (N/A) a couple days ago. Pics so far:
It is a 88 Fiero GT, factory leather and 5-speed. So the last year Fiero, with a great (If not the best), option package. The stock 135hp 2.8l OHV V6 can't do much very good. It's heavy, unreliable, beyond slow, gets poor mileage, and isn't easy to work on. So I did an engine swap, putting in a brand new 3.4l DOHC V6 from a 95 GTP Grand Prix, which made 210hp/215tq stock, and weighs about the same. From here the engine got torn apart (It's hard to pull a crate motor down to the short block). It got a fully ported/polished set of heads, flowing 325in/227exh at 1/2" lift, 48g lifters (40% lighter than stock), A/C and Power Steering delete, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, Spec Stage III Kevlar 6-puck clutch, Davies Craig Electric Water Pump and Thermostatic controller (To be replaced by a CSR), a 96-97 intake manifold swap (Short runners, much larger plenum volume), a 75mm Northstar throttle body, custom tuned equal length headers (1.75" X 20"), custom Y-pipe (Dual 2.5"), and a 3" exhaust (All ceramic coated). Then added was a Garrett dual ball bearing GT35r, a TiAL Sport 38mm external wastegate, an KKS SSQV blowoff valve, an 800hp air/liquid intercooler, Split Second FTC1 for tuning, flow matched 42.5# injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump, and some other things I forgot. I've done everything above myself, except for the P/P heads. I built the headers, I built the turbo kit, I built the exhaust, I will build the charge pipes, I did the engine swap (Including the wiring harness, custom poly mounts, everything). It isn't done yet, but I started it for the first time (N/A) a couple days ago. Pics so far:
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08-02-2007, 09:37 AM
#9
What kind of Gorilla **** is that for welds.
And before you say anything about me welding stainless, I know that i can't. I am smart enough to pay someone to do the **** that I can't do.
To be honest, that is a really cool project you have there. But you are one of the biggest know it all dicks that I have ever seen in my life. If you adjusted your attitude, people may actually get along with you.
And before you say anything about me welding stainless, I know that i can't. I am smart enough to pay someone to do the **** that I can't do.
To be honest, that is a really cool project you have there. But you are one of the biggest know it all dicks that I have ever seen in my life. If you adjusted your attitude, people may actually get along with you.
08-02-2007, 09:52 AM
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It shows true ignorance when one criticizes another's welds. Because, fact of the matter is, their appearance doesn't matter. Sure, they are not very pretty. But they penetrated well, without excess inner slag, and are just as strong as the other TIG/MIG welds. And I'd say those aren't half bad for a kid who bought a welder, and tought himself how to use it.
Furthermore, who in the hell said this was stainless? If you can't tell mild from stainless, you have no place commenting on my kit. Why would I ceramic coat stainless steel? So it doesn't rust?
Thanks for the advice Dr. Phil. But advice given to one who doesn't want the advice is not exactly advice.
Furthermore, who in the hell said this was stainless? If you can't tell mild from stainless, you have no place commenting on my kit. Why would I ceramic coat stainless steel? So it doesn't rust?
Thanks for the advice Dr. Phil. But advice given to one who doesn't want the advice is not exactly advice.
08-02-2007, 10:15 AM
#12
I'll take the hit for the stainless part. I just glanced at them.
As far as the looks part that is a classic excuse for someone that doesn't know how to weld. I have worked industrial piping for 10+ years and I have fit more pipe than you have ever seen. I have seen many, many welds failed on a visual. And they looked much better than that jb weld looking spatter you have there.
The consitency of the weld is what make it ugly or not. Good consistency of rod movement and angle along with proper heat is the correct way to get a good weld.
If you think rust control is the only reason to ceramic coat hot side piping, you are the one that is ignorant. Heat control is the biggest reason....
As far as the looks part that is a classic excuse for someone that doesn't know how to weld. I have worked industrial piping for 10+ years and I have fit more pipe than you have ever seen. I have seen many, many welds failed on a visual. And they looked much better than that jb weld looking spatter you have there.
The consitency of the weld is what make it ugly or not. Good consistency of rod movement and angle along with proper heat is the correct way to get a good weld.
If you think rust control is the only reason to ceramic coat hot side piping, you are the one that is ignorant. Heat control is the biggest reason....
