Rearmount C5 v2, suggestions for improvement
10-14-2008, 03:56 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rearmount C5 v2, suggestions for improvement Last year I fabricated a Rearmount Turbo for my Silver '00 C5. Unfortunately and regrettably I sold that car. Now I've been considering another rearmount system for my 98 C5. I would like to put together a solid bottom ten second setup (ok, I'll admit, I want to run 9.xxx, but doesn't everyone?)
Here's the build thread from my previous project.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...148&highlight=
That project used 2.5" to 3" Y and 3" pipe from the Y to the turbo, as well as 3" after turbo piping, and 3" Aluminum Charge piping back to the engine. It was a 346, stock engine, 2.73 gear, RPM A4. It worked well, but I think there was room for improvement, especially in off the line response. If I remember from logs, it took a little over a second to build 10psi, which caused some dismal 60', 1.79 at best.
I've come up with some ideas I'd like to try if I decide to build another one. Please comment on any or all, especially if I'm off base on any of these.
1st. Y-pipe
I've read that several rearmount guys have switched from 3" Y pipes to 2.5" and seen dramatic improvement in spool time. So I was planning to make that change. Of course it will be double layer heat wrapped front to back, and the manifolds will be coated if I can budget it in. Any other Suggestions on this?
2nd. Charge pipe
On the charge side, I remember a thread where there was some discussion regarding charge pipe diameter and air velocity. I've searched several times, but I can't seem to find that thread. What's the consensus on charge pipe? Several guys are still running the 2.25/2.5 STS return pipe correct? There's room on the C5 to run 3" pipe, but it gets narrow at the front subframe area. My previous car drug the charge pipe over speedbumps, so I'd like to run smaller pipe through there for ground clearance, or perhaps run the charge pipe up through the front fender to avoid going under the front subframe. These options are both easier if 2.5" charge pipe is acceptable.
3rd. Rear Gear
My last project used a 2.73 rear gear. I was planning to use a 3.42 gear on this one. I understand load v boost, but I also think the gear will help the car 60' better. Am I wrong? I already have 2.73 rear and 3.42 rear for the car, so I can (fairly) easily test this later.
4th Intake Manifold
00 car used a stock Ls1 intake and 78mm TB. I have an Ls2 TB and LS2 intake for this project. I've seen good results on FI vettes using this combo over the stock Ls1 stuff. Any comments on this?
5th. Fuel system
I used billet rails and big feed line, fittings, 60# injectors, twin pumps, regulator etc... on my last project. I had issues with the tank venturi/leveling system. ON this one I planned to mount two walbros in tank (one on a hobbs switch), feed through the stock lines and rails, and use 60# injectors. Since my 98 is a return fuel system, the stock regulator should boost index correct? If not, I can run the stock feed and return line into an Aeromotive regulator, and run a line from the opposite side of the regulator over to a returnless style rail. Either option should work right?
6th. After Turbo Exhaust pipe
Needs to be larger than 3" outlet of the turbo. I was going to do a simple 4" dump off the turbo, and mock up some tips to make the rear end look right.
7th Wastegate
I used a Tial 44 on the 00, it worked great, but If I can save $150 by using a smaller gate I'd like to. Anyone have issues using the 38mm gates from Tial or Turbosmart instead?
8th
Turbo selection.. this could be an entire post in itself. Turbo's I've been considering: TC76/78, PT76GTS, MP70, MP76, PT74GTQ (friend of mine has one used) Borg Warner SXXX (I don't know what BW turbo matches up correctly) Old car used a .8x T4 housing S trim. New turbo should be...???
9th
Anything else you guys can think of? Zombie? LongRange4u? 1320?
Here's the build thread from my previous project.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...148&highlight=
That project used 2.5" to 3" Y and 3" pipe from the Y to the turbo, as well as 3" after turbo piping, and 3" Aluminum Charge piping back to the engine. It was a 346, stock engine, 2.73 gear, RPM A4. It worked well, but I think there was room for improvement, especially in off the line response. If I remember from logs, it took a little over a second to build 10psi, which caused some dismal 60', 1.79 at best.
I've come up with some ideas I'd like to try if I decide to build another one. Please comment on any or all, especially if I'm off base on any of these.
1st. Y-pipe
I've read that several rearmount guys have switched from 3" Y pipes to 2.5" and seen dramatic improvement in spool time. So I was planning to make that change. Of course it will be double layer heat wrapped front to back, and the manifolds will be coated if I can budget it in. Any other Suggestions on this?
2nd. Charge pipe
On the charge side, I remember a thread where there was some discussion regarding charge pipe diameter and air velocity. I've searched several times, but I can't seem to find that thread. What's the consensus on charge pipe? Several guys are still running the 2.25/2.5 STS return pipe correct? There's room on the C5 to run 3" pipe, but it gets narrow at the front subframe area. My previous car drug the charge pipe over speedbumps, so I'd like to run smaller pipe through there for ground clearance, or perhaps run the charge pipe up through the front fender to avoid going under the front subframe. These options are both easier if 2.5" charge pipe is acceptable.
3rd. Rear Gear
My last project used a 2.73 rear gear. I was planning to use a 3.42 gear on this one. I understand load v boost, but I also think the gear will help the car 60' better. Am I wrong? I already have 2.73 rear and 3.42 rear for the car, so I can (fairly) easily test this later.
4th Intake Manifold
00 car used a stock Ls1 intake and 78mm TB. I have an Ls2 TB and LS2 intake for this project. I've seen good results on FI vettes using this combo over the stock Ls1 stuff. Any comments on this?
5th. Fuel system
I used billet rails and big feed line, fittings, 60# injectors, twin pumps, regulator etc... on my last project. I had issues with the tank venturi/leveling system. ON this one I planned to mount two walbros in tank (one on a hobbs switch), feed through the stock lines and rails, and use 60# injectors. Since my 98 is a return fuel system, the stock regulator should boost index correct? If not, I can run the stock feed and return line into an Aeromotive regulator, and run a line from the opposite side of the regulator over to a returnless style rail. Either option should work right?
6th. After Turbo Exhaust pipe
Needs to be larger than 3" outlet of the turbo. I was going to do a simple 4" dump off the turbo, and mock up some tips to make the rear end look right.
7th Wastegate
I used a Tial 44 on the 00, it worked great, but If I can save $150 by using a smaller gate I'd like to. Anyone have issues using the 38mm gates from Tial or Turbosmart instead?
8th
Turbo selection.. this could be an entire post in itself. Turbo's I've been considering: TC76/78, PT76GTS, MP70, MP76, PT74GTQ (friend of mine has one used) Borg Warner SXXX (I don't know what BW turbo matches up correctly) Old car used a .8x T4 housing S trim. New turbo should be...???
9th
Anything else you guys can think of? Zombie? LongRange4u? 1320?
10-14-2008, 04:26 PM
#2
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i dont have any experience with the setups but it all sounds good to me.
what kind of rpm did u pull at the end of the 1/4 with 2:73's?
what size tire?
3:42s may work good, grand nationals run them, but they weigh much more.
also correct me if im wrong, wasnt it a bad idea to double wrap? or was that just for the sake of rust? i swear i read somewhere that it doesnt help but dont take my word for it
edit: also if you wanna spend the money, a trans break and whatever will keep the rear from blowing up would help your 60 if you can get it to hook
what kind of rpm did u pull at the end of the 1/4 with 2:73's?
what size tire?
3:42s may work good, grand nationals run them, but they weigh much more.
also correct me if im wrong, wasnt it a bad idea to double wrap? or was that just for the sake of rust? i swear i read somewhere that it doesnt help but dont take my word for it
edit: also if you wanna spend the money, a trans break and whatever will keep the rear from blowing up would help your 60 if you can get it to hook
10-14-2008, 04:44 PM
#3
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i dont have any experience with the setups but it all sounds good to me.
what kind of rpm did u pull at the end of the 1/4 with 2:73's?
what size tire?
3:42s may work good, grand nationals run them, but they weigh much more.
also correct me if im wrong, wasnt it a bad idea to double wrap? or was that just for the sake of rust? i swear i read somewhere that it doesnt help but dont take my word for it
what kind of rpm did u pull at the end of the 1/4 with 2:73's?
what size tire?
3:42s may work good, grand nationals run them, but they weigh much more.
also correct me if im wrong, wasnt it a bad idea to double wrap? or was that just for the sake of rust? i swear i read somewhere that it doesnt help but dont take my word for it
I don't remember what terminal RPM was. I don't have my laptop with me with my logs. One reason I wanted to use the 3.42 was to actually take some load OFF the drivetrain. I snapped a trans o/p shaft with the old setup. I though the steeper gear might lessen that load and help prevent that in the future.
On that note, I didn't mention drivetrain, but other than the 2.73 gear and 3.42 gear, I also have a Vig 3200 convertor and the trans will be built, with a hardened o/p shaft this time!
I suppose I should have said overlap, instead of double wrap on the exhaust wrap.
10-14-2008, 10:07 PM
#4
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
1 Post
See below. Good luck 
All the standard stuff. Fuel, upgraded valvetrain, and oil return. Oil return from the turbine is the most critical aspect to your buld. Suggest running a Mocal return pump + a restrictor on the turbine inlet to prevent over-oiling. Have a thread for this as well.... https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...+inlet+fix+sts
Last year I fabricated a Rearmount Turbo for my Silver '00 C5. Unfortunately and regrettably I sold that car. Now I've been considering another rearmount system for my 98 C5. I would like to put together a solid bottom ten second setup (ok, I'll admit, I want to run 9.xxx, but doesn't everyone?)
Here's the build thread from my previous project.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...148&highlight=
That project used 2.5" to 3" Y and 3" pipe from the Y to the turbo, as well as 3" after turbo piping, and 3" Aluminum Charge piping back to the engine. It was a 346, stock engine, 2.73 gear, RPM A4. It worked well, but I think there was room for improvement, especially in off the line response. If I remember from logs, it took a little over a second to build 10psi, which caused some dismal 60', 1.79 at best.
I've come up with some ideas I'd like to try if I decide to build another one. Please comment on any or all, especially if I'm off base on any of these.
1st. Y-pipe
I've read that several rearmount guys have switched from 3" Y pipes to 2.5" and seen dramatic improvement in spool time. So I was planning to make that change. Of course it will be double layer heat wrapped front to back, and the manifolds will be coated if I can budget it in. Any other Suggestions on this?
Double wrapping can cause moisture retention issues between the layers which will lead to corrosion + excess weight. Single wrap. Also, I tried both 2.5 and 3" pipe on my Camaro STS. 3" worked better. The velocity increase from smaller diameter pipe is offset by the restriction it creates. Larger diameter piping does better. After the turbo, a 4" would be even better for a dump.
2nd. Charge pipe
On the charge side, I remember a thread where there was some discussion regarding charge pipe diameter and air velocity. I've searched several times, but I can't seem to find that thread. What's the consensus on charge pipe? Several guys are still running the 2.25/2.5 STS return pipe correct? There's room on the C5 to run 3" pipe, but it gets narrow at the front subframe area. My previous car drug the charge pipe over speedbumps, so I'd like to run smaller pipe through there for ground clearance, or perhaps run the charge pipe up through the front fender to avoid going under the front subframe. These options are both easier if 2.5" charge pipe is acceptable.
Definetly 3" over 2.5. More volume + less restriction. You could also run 2x pipes at 2" diameter which would effectively yeild a 4" pipe. The latter is if ground clearance is a major concern. Merge from a 4" from the turbine outlet via a smooth transition Y into the 2x pipes, and back into a 4" before the FMIC.
3rd. Rear Gear
My last project used a 2.73 rear gear. I was planning to use a 3.42 gear on this one. I understand load v boost, but I also think the gear will help the car 60' better. Am I wrong? I already have 2.73 rear and 3.42 rear for the car, so I can (fairly) easily test this later.
I'd personally suggest the lower gear ratio for increased engine load to spool the turbine. Test both...... but I think the 2.73's will serve you better.
4th Intake Manifold
00 car used a stock Ls1 intake and 78mm TB. I have an Ls2 TB and LS2 intake for this project. I've seen good results on FI vettes using this combo over the stock Ls1 stuff. Any comments on this?
5th. Fuel system
I used billet rails and big feed line, fittings, 60# injectors, twin pumps, regulator etc... on my last project. I had issues with the tank venturi/leveling system. ON this one I planned to mount two walbros in tank (one on a hobbs switch), feed through the stock lines and rails, and use 60# injectors. Since my 98 is a return fuel system, the stock regulator should boost index correct? If not, I can run the stock feed and return line into an Aeromotive regulator, and run a line from the opposite side of the regulator over to a returnless style rail. Either option should work right?
To run an Aeromotive regulator, you'll need to bypass/remove the stock return regulator. They won't work together to the best of my knowledge. Boost referenced regulator (ie Aeromotive) is the best way to go. The stock regulator WILL NOT boost compensate.
6th. After Turbo Exhaust pipe
Needs to be larger than 3" outlet of the turbo. I was going to do a simple 4" dump off the turbo, and mock up some tips to make the rear end look right.
7th Wastegate
I used a Tial 44 on the 00, it worked great, but If I can save $150 by using a smaller gate I'd like to. Anyone have issues using the 38mm gates from Tial or Turbosmart instead?
8th
Turbo selection.. this could be an entire post in itself. Turbo's I've been considering: TC76/78, PT76GTS, MP70, MP76, PT74GTQ (friend of mine has one used) Borg Warner SXXX (I don't know what BW turbo matches up correctly) Old car used a .8x T4 housing S trim. New turbo should be...???
9th
Anything else you guys can think of? Zombie? LongRange4u? 1320?
Here's the build thread from my previous project.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...148&highlight=
That project used 2.5" to 3" Y and 3" pipe from the Y to the turbo, as well as 3" after turbo piping, and 3" Aluminum Charge piping back to the engine. It was a 346, stock engine, 2.73 gear, RPM A4. It worked well, but I think there was room for improvement, especially in off the line response. If I remember from logs, it took a little over a second to build 10psi, which caused some dismal 60', 1.79 at best.
I've come up with some ideas I'd like to try if I decide to build another one. Please comment on any or all, especially if I'm off base on any of these.
1st. Y-pipe
I've read that several rearmount guys have switched from 3" Y pipes to 2.5" and seen dramatic improvement in spool time. So I was planning to make that change. Of course it will be double layer heat wrapped front to back, and the manifolds will be coated if I can budget it in. Any other Suggestions on this?
Double wrapping can cause moisture retention issues between the layers which will lead to corrosion + excess weight. Single wrap. Also, I tried both 2.5 and 3" pipe on my Camaro STS. 3" worked better. The velocity increase from smaller diameter pipe is offset by the restriction it creates. Larger diameter piping does better. After the turbo, a 4" would be even better for a dump.
2nd. Charge pipe
On the charge side, I remember a thread where there was some discussion regarding charge pipe diameter and air velocity. I've searched several times, but I can't seem to find that thread. What's the consensus on charge pipe? Several guys are still running the 2.25/2.5 STS return pipe correct? There's room on the C5 to run 3" pipe, but it gets narrow at the front subframe area. My previous car drug the charge pipe over speedbumps, so I'd like to run smaller pipe through there for ground clearance, or perhaps run the charge pipe up through the front fender to avoid going under the front subframe. These options are both easier if 2.5" charge pipe is acceptable.
Definetly 3" over 2.5. More volume + less restriction. You could also run 2x pipes at 2" diameter which would effectively yeild a 4" pipe. The latter is if ground clearance is a major concern. Merge from a 4" from the turbine outlet via a smooth transition Y into the 2x pipes, and back into a 4" before the FMIC.
3rd. Rear Gear
My last project used a 2.73 rear gear. I was planning to use a 3.42 gear on this one. I understand load v boost, but I also think the gear will help the car 60' better. Am I wrong? I already have 2.73 rear and 3.42 rear for the car, so I can (fairly) easily test this later.
I'd personally suggest the lower gear ratio for increased engine load to spool the turbine. Test both...... but I think the 2.73's will serve you better.
4th Intake Manifold
00 car used a stock Ls1 intake and 78mm TB. I have an Ls2 TB and LS2 intake for this project. I've seen good results on FI vettes using this combo over the stock Ls1 stuff. Any comments on this?
5th. Fuel system
I used billet rails and big feed line, fittings, 60# injectors, twin pumps, regulator etc... on my last project. I had issues with the tank venturi/leveling system. ON this one I planned to mount two walbros in tank (one on a hobbs switch), feed through the stock lines and rails, and use 60# injectors. Since my 98 is a return fuel system, the stock regulator should boost index correct? If not, I can run the stock feed and return line into an Aeromotive regulator, and run a line from the opposite side of the regulator over to a returnless style rail. Either option should work right?
To run an Aeromotive regulator, you'll need to bypass/remove the stock return regulator. They won't work together to the best of my knowledge. Boost referenced regulator (ie Aeromotive) is the best way to go. The stock regulator WILL NOT boost compensate.
6th. After Turbo Exhaust pipe
Needs to be larger than 3" outlet of the turbo. I was going to do a simple 4" dump off the turbo, and mock up some tips to make the rear end look right.
7th Wastegate
I used a Tial 44 on the 00, it worked great, but If I can save $150 by using a smaller gate I'd like to. Anyone have issues using the 38mm gates from Tial or Turbosmart instead?
8th
Turbo selection.. this could be an entire post in itself. Turbo's I've been considering: TC76/78, PT76GTS, MP70, MP76, PT74GTQ (friend of mine has one used) Borg Warner SXXX (I don't know what BW turbo matches up correctly) Old car used a .8x T4 housing S trim. New turbo should be...???
9th
Anything else you guys can think of? Zombie? LongRange4u? 1320?
10-14-2008, 10:12 PM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I run the LS2 TB and Manifold and they work so well I usually tell people to save money on the FAST crap.
If you do the aeromotive setup just do it all. I run the aeromotive regulator & rails with dual 255lph pumps and have plenty of fuel.
If you do the aeromotive setup just do it all. I run the aeromotive regulator & rails with dual 255lph pumps and have plenty of fuel.
10-15-2008, 12:57 AM
#6
I can reccomend the ST80 turbo as a good choice, but it might be hard to fit on the vette. With the 1.00 a/r and 83mm turbine I get just enough lag on the street to hook when laying into it from a 60-80 mph roll on hoosier radials (except 1st, forget about traction in 1st). Even though I spin in 1st gear I can still reach full boost. If you are doing pure street you can drop to a smaller a/r. I'm trapping mid 130's in a 3800lb car on 16psi so it's making A LOT of power. Even on my street boost (13-14psi) I can hang with most liter bikes I run into, especially now that our temps are below 90 during the day (free HP). Make sure that you converter is setup for a turbo car, a 3200 n/a converter will probably be way too loose under boost. My 2800 turbo converter flashes to about 5700 at 16psi.
The 3.42 gear would be good for the track if you had a transbrake, but it will spool better with the 2.73's and you will be able to build more boost on the foot brake before pushing through the brakes. This is something I've never heard anyone else talk about, but I can build between 5-8 psi on the foot brake on a sticky track before pushing due to the lack of torque multiplication.
My friend 1320 did a twin rear mount c5 using GN turbos that works pretty good, twins could be another option.
The 3.42 gear would be good for the track if you had a transbrake, but it will spool better with the 2.73's and you will be able to build more boost on the foot brake before pushing through the brakes. This is something I've never heard anyone else talk about, but I can build between 5-8 psi on the foot brake on a sticky track before pushing due to the lack of torque multiplication.
My friend 1320 did a twin rear mount c5 using GN turbos that works pretty good, twins could be another option.
10-15-2008, 01:55 AM
#7
Stealth on the corvette forum had some good results form his T76 rearmount setup then amazing results from the T88 Cartech did for him. take a look at what piping he used and how they got around the problems...
Zombie, guys have strapped 106mm units under vettes!
Chris.
Zombie, guys have strapped 106mm units under vettes!
Chris.
Trending Topics
10-15-2008, 09:45 AM
#8
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Schantin: Thanks for the suggestions.
I didn't mention my oil system. On my last build I used the Reverso Pump, with a check valve. I ran the return into the valve cover. I was planning to return oil into the timing cover this time instead. Is the Mocal pump better than the Reverso pump?
Valvetrain will be LS6 Cam, 918 Springs, Ti Retainers and Chromeolly Pushrods. I used this setup on my 00 car and was very happy with the setup, fairly standard stuff tt seems.
Drew: Thanks. I'll definately use the Ls2/Ls2 setup.
Zombie: I may sell that converter and have one built. The Fuddle in my 00 was 3600 Nitrous converter, flashed to about 3500 on the hit, then slipped to 5500 when boost came on. It needed to be tighter I think.
On my '00 I couldn't footbrake it hard enough to make any boost. It pushed through the brakes at about 2200rpm, and at 2200 it wouldn't make any boost, no matter how long I stayed on it. Transbrake is available on the 4L60E, but I wasn't planning to install one due to substantial additional cost.
Twins are an option I've looked into. Infact, I talked to Jon via PM about the setup he built using the BGN turbos. But I do like the clean simplicity of one y-pipe, one turbo, and one charge pipe.
Chuntington: My first setup was very similar to Stealths 76mm setup. His current T88 setup uses 3" Ypipe and 3.5" charge pipe. He ran the charge pipe through the wheel well, which I think may only be possible running skinny fronts.
Thanks for all the input guys.
I didn't mention my oil system. On my last build I used the Reverso Pump, with a check valve. I ran the return into the valve cover. I was planning to return oil into the timing cover this time instead. Is the Mocal pump better than the Reverso pump?
Valvetrain will be LS6 Cam, 918 Springs, Ti Retainers and Chromeolly Pushrods. I used this setup on my 00 car and was very happy with the setup, fairly standard stuff tt seems.
Drew: Thanks. I'll definately use the Ls2/Ls2 setup.
Zombie: I may sell that converter and have one built. The Fuddle in my 00 was 3600 Nitrous converter, flashed to about 3500 on the hit, then slipped to 5500 when boost came on. It needed to be tighter I think.
On my '00 I couldn't footbrake it hard enough to make any boost. It pushed through the brakes at about 2200rpm, and at 2200 it wouldn't make any boost, no matter how long I stayed on it. Transbrake is available on the 4L60E, but I wasn't planning to install one due to substantial additional cost.
Twins are an option I've looked into. Infact, I talked to Jon via PM about the setup he built using the BGN turbos. But I do like the clean simplicity of one y-pipe, one turbo, and one charge pipe.
Chuntington: My first setup was very similar to Stealths 76mm setup. His current T88 setup uses 3" Ypipe and 3.5" charge pipe. He ran the charge pipe through the wheel well, which I think may only be possible running skinny fronts.
Thanks for all the input guys.
10-15-2008, 11:22 AM
#9
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Washington
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont want to speak for Longrange4u but he was running two charge pipes that were small diameter to obtain the large volume at a lower pressure. I run a 3.23 gear and I agree with the 3.42 , it would help you get out of the hole quicker, it works great on the Grand Nationals. Make sure you run the oil return to the oil pan. Keep us posted on your build.
10-16-2008, 01:22 AM
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: LV NV
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I posted earlier but it froze up.
Shantin, your math is incorrect. 2 , 2 inch pipes are not equal to one 4 inch pipe. The area of the circle is pi r (2)......2 2 inch pipes are alittle less then one 3 inch I think.
The entire build is pretty solid. I would run the smallest turbo to get the goal. Since I know a 3400 lb f body can go low 10's at a poor da with a p trim 76 (81) then I d suspect a slightly lighter vette would get into the 9's fairly easy. The benefit would be better street manners, and quicker responce with out working it hard.
Shantin, your math is incorrect. 2 , 2 inch pipes are not equal to one 4 inch pipe. The area of the circle is pi r (2)......2 2 inch pipes are alittle less then one 3 inch I think.
The entire build is pretty solid. I would run the smallest turbo to get the goal. Since I know a 3400 lb f body can go low 10's at a poor da with a p trim 76 (81) then I d suspect a slightly lighter vette would get into the 9's fairly easy. The benefit would be better street manners, and quicker responce with out working it hard.
10-16-2008, 10:35 AM
#12
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1320: The DA at the locals tracks are generally substantially lower than the Strip in Vegas where (I assume) you and Zombie run. What Y-pipe and charge pipe diameter tubing did you use on your camaro?
On the Y-pipe, does it matter between 2.5" and 3" since the choke point is going to be the turbine housing/wheel anyway? I wish I had logged EBT at some point on my '00 car, so I'd have some data to compare to..
That MP76 P trim might work? Anyone have first hand knowledge about the reliability of those units?
BTW: For square areas I came up with the following:
2x2" pipe 6.28
2.5" pipe 4.91
3" pipe 7.07
3.5" pipe 9.62
4" pipe 12.56
Chuntington: I'm a decent fabricator, I enjoy building my own parts. I was going to reference the pics in my other thread for my fab ability, but it appears I'm over my BW on my photobucket account. Plus It's much less $$ to build it myself. If I had the money to buy a kit, I'd buy an APS or TTiX, but I'm budgeting an entire build (Trans, convertor, fuel sys, roll bar, etc...) for what I'd have in either of those kits.
On the Y-pipe, does it matter between 2.5" and 3" since the choke point is going to be the turbine housing/wheel anyway? I wish I had logged EBT at some point on my '00 car, so I'd have some data to compare to..
That MP76 P trim might work? Anyone have first hand knowledge about the reliability of those units?
BTW: For square areas I came up with the following:
2x2" pipe 6.28
2.5" pipe 4.91
3" pipe 7.07
3.5" pipe 9.62
4" pipe 12.56
Chuntington: I'm a decent fabricator, I enjoy building my own parts. I was going to reference the pics in my other thread for my fab ability, but it appears I'm over my BW on my photobucket account. Plus It's much less $$ to build it myself. If I had the money to buy a kit, I'd buy an APS or TTiX, but I'm budgeting an entire build (Trans, convertor, fuel sys, roll bar, etc...) for what I'd have in either of those kits.
10-16-2008, 10:46 AM
#13
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
1 Post
I posted earlier but it froze up.
Shantin, your math is incorrect. 2 , 2 inch pipes are not equal to one 4 inch pipe. The area of the circle is pi r (2)......2 2 inch pipes are alittle less then one 3 inch I think.
The entire build is pretty solid. I would run the smallest turbo to get the goal. Since I know a 3400 lb f body can go low 10's at a poor da with a p trim 76 (81) then I d suspect a slightly lighter vette would get into the 9's fairly easy. The benefit would be better street manners, and quicker responce with out working it hard.
Shantin, your math is incorrect. 2 , 2 inch pipes are not equal to one 4 inch pipe. The area of the circle is pi r (2)......2 2 inch pipes are alittle less then one 3 inch I think.
The entire build is pretty solid. I would run the smallest turbo to get the goal. Since I know a 3400 lb f body can go low 10's at a poor da with a p trim 76 (81) then I d suspect a slightly lighter vette would get into the 9's fairly easy. The benefit would be better street manners, and quicker responce with out working it hard.
Good catch. 