YIKESS

Before I did work to my car, bone stock with the stock oil pump, at idle with the car at normal temp, the needle would be straight up and down. This was like this since I got the car new back in 98. After install the TR220 cam and a few other things, I changed out to a LS6 ported oil pump from Thunder. Question is, now at idle with the car at normal temp, it shows right above the first line after 0. Not straight up and down anymore. Why is this?? Is it because the pump is ported, so its pushing more oil, but showing lower oil pressure?? I am running Mobil 5w-30 oil, (have since new). Is this oil to thin for the pump, causing it to read low??? Should I maybe switch to a 10-30 or 10-40 redline oil?? Thanks for any help guys.

One other thing, could the blue "O" ring on the pump not be seated correctly causing this??

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

sounds like an "O" ring problem.....every car that I have installed a ported pump on has had at least 40psi at idle (often more)....

BergerMan

I have a ported LS6 pump from A.R.E and I run 70psi at idle cold and 45psi idle hot. I have never seen mine below 40psi.

YIKESS

so if the "o" ring is not sitting correctly, this could cause this?? I thought if it wasnt sitting correctly, I wouldnt get any oil pressure at all.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

depends on how "bad" its off.....

YIKESS

ttt

Tin Indian

I didn't know that Thunder sold a so called "Ported LS6" pump. In fact, I did not know that there was a difference between an LS1 and a LS6 pump.

I have a ported pump from Thunder. It's actually a pump that was ported by Katech and sold through Thunder Racing.

The Katech pump does not have a heavier bypass spring in it, nor does it have a shim under the spring.

Because of this, the oil pressure is [exactly] what it was with the factory original pump:

Hot Idle = 40 psi (never below)
Hot 70 mph Highway speed = 55 psi

Initially, after installing this pump along with a TR220 cam, headers and ported heads, I had erratic oil pressure. In fact, once the engine got hot, the oil pressure at idle would sometimes get so low that the oil light would illuminate and the lifters would rattle.

The Fix: Replaced the O Ring with a new one. Again, now the oil pressure is exactly what it was when stock.

39,000 mile 98 TA

Ron,

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

You said you installed a TR220 cam and a "FEW OTHER THINGS". One of those "FEW OTHER THINGS" didn't happen to be a Double Row Timing Chain while you were swapping the oil pump did it? If so you may have put the pump output port spacer on upside down which is easy enough to do because it will fit on the WRONG WAY. This will severely limit the flow of oil out of the pump into the block. This would demonstrate as a low gauge reading not to mention reduced lubrication.

Vents

iTrader: (9)

Before we dive into mechanical problems, look at the simple things:


thats really a pretty thin of an oil to be using. i used 5w-20 in mine and on hot days, the thermal breakdown on this thinner oil would cause the oil pressure to drop signifigantly after the motor warmed up. borderline on un-safe. on cold startups, the pressure would read fine, but once it heated up, watch the needle.

i'd switch to a heavier oil and go from there. if that dosent solve your problem, start a mechanical examination of the oil pump and o-ring.

YIKESS

thanks......I did put a new "O" ring on.....I guess I will have to break it down and re-check it.

YIKESS

Yes I did install a double row timing chain. But I made sure I put the spacer on correctly. But anything is possible, It may have went on wrong.

Smoke_Ford

Now I am starting to wonder if I put the spacer on the wrong way...

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

just how low is your pressure???
If you're at 40 its all good...If your at the first line??then you got that spacer backwards....did that on accident myself....DOH!!!.

Just tear back into the front and fix it...as soon as possible...and dont push the motor until you get it done....
You should have atleast 10psi of oil pressure / 1000 Rpm.

YIKESS

The first line before the 0 mark.

JeffJeff

I had a similar issue with the TR pump. After doing a H/C swap on my '98 C5, I lost 5 psi across the board compared to stock. I had the pump shimmed and now I run about 10 psi higher than stock. In my case it was not the o-ring.

Miles in MI

I've had slightly low oil pressure in my car since my cam swap, and I also put on a double tow timing chain. It's been taken apart once since then to replace the o-ring, but I didn't know having the spacer backward could be a problem then, so I didn't check it.

How do I know if the spacer is backward? Will it be partially covering a port in the block if it is? I wouldn't want to take everything apart when it's good, and then flip it so it's on wrong when I put it back together.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

sounds like you gotta get back in to check the o-ring anyways(just go buy a new one from the parts store and replace it anyways) and while your in...look at the spacer...the middle hole should be closer to the top...if its not...then it is blocking you......button it back up and tell us the results.....

Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

Ok. I'm getting ready to have the cam, ASP, double roller, valve springs, retainers installed. I have a 99 Z. Should I really buy a ported oil pump? TSP has one for 129, everyone else advertises theirs as "blueprinted" for $149. I just don't want to spend $ if it's really not needed, but I want to do the right thing.

1999_SS_M6

Just get a new stock unit. Save the $$

jrp

iTrader: (16)

im in the same boat as you, i picked up the TSP ported oil pump just for the fact that mine is a hight mileage ls1 and it was cheaper then the others.

looks like a good quality unit with a nice port job, havent installed my **** yet, waitin for the damn ups man to come with my o-ring.