Want bird to handle better
#1
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Want bird to handle better
So I have had the unfortunate opportunity to drive a brand new vette and now i am very disappointed with how my car handles, I already have an airbag spring in the back right corner of the car. I am in college so budget is 500 bucks, I am considering doing the sway bar set from spohn
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1998-2002-...32mm-22mm.html
or a torque arm (i know a torque arm won't help with handeling) anyone have any other suggestions or any information on the best sway bars for these cars.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1998-2002-...32mm-22mm.html
or a torque arm (i know a torque arm won't help with handeling) anyone have any other suggestions or any information on the best sway bars for these cars.
#2
Good shocks is a great place (probably the BEST place) to start. Stock shocks = crap.
Konis are great shocks for the money, but they are a bit out of your price range. I'd save up and get them.
Konis are great shocks for the money, but they are a bit out of your price range. I'd save up and get them.
#5
TECH Senior Member
So I have had the unfortunate opportunity to drive a brand new vette and now i am very disappointed with how my car handles, I already have an airbag spring in the back right corner of the car. I am in college so budget is 500 bucks, I am considering doing the sway bar set from spohn
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1998-2002-...32mm-22mm.html
or a torque arm (i know a torque arm won't help with handeling) anyone have any other suggestions or any information on the best sway bars for these cars.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1998-2002-...32mm-22mm.html
or a torque arm (i know a torque arm won't help with handeling) anyone have any other suggestions or any information on the best sway bars for these cars.
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#8
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iTrader: (41)
Shocks are most important. And fwiw, there are other shocks other than AGX's that fit the budget. Bilstein's are $425 a set. Tokico's are an option too @ $390 a set (but really for the price difference Bilstein's are better built). But you do get what you pay for performance wise with shocks, with little exception. And Koni's are the absolute best on that front.
Bars are a great tool for making a car roll less and be balanced well. Many companies have bars, and there are sets of various sizes. But most folks don't turn corners. I do. A combination of bars @ 32/21 or 32/22 is to rear biased. I use a 22mm rear bar most of the time (there are exceptions) but use a much stiffer 35mm front bar. You get more roll control, and a car that's better balanced and easier to drive quickly.
There are always many ways to attack a setup. Most have preferences and I'm not different. However often the preferences are based on very little experience. I can guarantee that I've been on more different setups than anyone else, and I know how the suspension of these things work.
You want it to handle better, and that's great. My first question on a phone call between us would be "in what way". The answer needs not be a super complex one with engineering terms. I want to get a sense of what you dislike about the car. I know from experience that most complaints stem from the shocks, and that's why I generally start there.
Bars are a great tool for making a car roll less and be balanced well. Many companies have bars, and there are sets of various sizes. But most folks don't turn corners. I do. A combination of bars @ 32/21 or 32/22 is to rear biased. I use a 22mm rear bar most of the time (there are exceptions) but use a much stiffer 35mm front bar. You get more roll control, and a car that's better balanced and easier to drive quickly.
There are always many ways to attack a setup. Most have preferences and I'm not different. However often the preferences are based on very little experience. I can guarantee that I've been on more different setups than anyone else, and I know how the suspension of these things work.
You want it to handle better, and that's great. My first question on a phone call between us would be "in what way". The answer needs not be a super complex one with engineering terms. I want to get a sense of what you dislike about the car. I know from experience that most complaints stem from the shocks, and that's why I generally start there.
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Last edited by Sam Strano; 11-07-2008 at 12:15 PM.
#10
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Well, only if you want to increase your front roll stiffness about 45% and the rear by about 33%.
You get a lot less body roll.
You get a lot less body roll.
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#12
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iTrader: (41)
Your stock bar is 32mm.... and it's 10 pounds lighter than a solid bar is. And don't buy the claim a solid one is a lot stiffer, it's not. Some, but not very much.
Let me put it to you this way. 94+ 1LE's had 32/19 bars (your bars). Only '93 1LE's had 32/21 bars (the front one being your, a hollow one, the rear solid). But were like that because that year car did not get the stiffer 1LE rear springs so they ran more bar to counter that.
In short, 32/19 on stock springs or most lowering springs is a great balance. And in fact I use a 35/22 because it maintains a very similar front to rear bar ratio as the 32/19 setup.
Let me put it to you this way. 94+ 1LE's had 32/19 bars (your bars). Only '93 1LE's had 32/21 bars (the front one being your, a hollow one, the rear solid). But were like that because that year car did not get the stiffer 1LE rear springs so they ran more bar to counter that.
In short, 32/19 on stock springs or most lowering springs is a great balance. And in fact I use a 35/22 because it maintains a very similar front to rear bar ratio as the 32/19 setup.
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18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
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Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#13
TECH Senior Member
Again I'm going to urge you to forget about any other piece before you get better shocks. Both the front and rear bar combined didn't make the difference that the Konis did. If I had a choice between driving my car with just konis on otherwise stock suspension, or stock shocks with upgraded swaybars and springs I wound't hesitate to go just with just the konis, yes, they make that big of a difference and the car wouldn't drive/feel/be nearly as stable or controlled as without them.
Your car probably feels sloppy and fat compared to the vette right? Doesn't give much feedback? Snap-oversteer, twitchy, and unnerving at the limit because its hard to feel whats going on right? Am I right?
#15
TECH Senior Member
This is a good question for Sam to answer, he can explain in detail what you need to know, give him a call.
For me, I chose konis over the KYB's because:
1.) They don't warranty their shocks with lowering springs, which sounds kinda fishy to me. Koni has a life time warrenty (to the original shock buyer).
2.) From what I've seen on the forum they have some quality issues. I saw a few occasions which the piece that mounts the shock to the rear end physically snapped off. Its one thing to have a shock blow itself out, but this is just dangerous.
3.) They adjust compression with rebound. When you adjust for more rebound you automatically get more compression, whether you want it or not. Koni's adjust rebound independently from compression.
#16
a lot of people don't trust it, but i bought a lot of my suspension stuff used.
i did
-a 32mm front bar(mine stock was 30)
-revalved bilsteins/hypercoils in the front
-slp bilsteins/slp eibachs in the rear
-poly endlinks
-autox alignment
all for well under $400. could have saved another $100 by swapping the struts myself but i didnt feel like going out and buying a spring compressor and possibly messing it up hahah.
i did
-a 32mm front bar(mine stock was 30)
-revalved bilsteins/hypercoils in the front
-slp bilsteins/slp eibachs in the rear
-poly endlinks
-autox alignment
all for well under $400. could have saved another $100 by swapping the struts myself but i didnt feel like going out and buying a spring compressor and possibly messing it up hahah.
#19
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iTrader: (41)
Adjustable they are, and that can be used to tune things to your needs. However the overall quality of the damper is not as good, the level of control is not as good, and the ride quality at the levels of rebound control suffer.
Just last week I had a customer get and install some Koni's in place of his AGX's. The KYB's were set @ 8 all around (that's full stiff). He complained both of a lack of damping, where the car would not just take a set, and a harsh ride. The Koni's (by his report) are better in both ways (and they should be), and he's nowhere near running out of room to adjust up should he want more control.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#20
your sig says your car is a ws6, in which case you would have a 32mm front bar.
another way to find out for sure is to look near the side of the swaybar there's a tag(may have fallen off) labeled either KAB or KAC(i think).
i know KAB is 30mm, and the other(again i THINK KAC) is 32.
another way to find out for sure is to look near the side of the swaybar there's a tag(may have fallen off) labeled either KAB or KAC(i think).
i know KAB is 30mm, and the other(again i THINK KAC) is 32.