lt1badbird

iTrader: (-1)

still undecided on the path i want to take the car. Im pretty sure i could do a 550whp 408 with a 25-300 shot for under $10,000

is it possible to do a 800 rwhp (ballpark) turbo build for that price? and maintain reliability and have the parts that can handle it? if not what kinda cost are we looking at? can always get the tubo kit used to cut costs.....thanks

Sluggish

iTrader: (10)

I don't see you getting either one for under 10k. Price of motor, fuel system, turbo kit or nitrous would send you past 10k. A 550whp 408 on motor is going to need some nice parts like trickflow heads, and those bitches aren't cheap.


If you need anymore info there is a little sticky at the top. Here is a free link
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...induction.html

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

Look at the stickies.

Broke EF

I think you can get it done for five bucks. Give it a try and let us know how it works out.

Sean

04gtoBMXracer

iTrader: (26)

Yeah, if you gotta ask then...

Mr CHI

iTrader: (3)

A Speed Inc turbo kit is $7,000.
And thats just for the kit
YOU have to put it in
YOU have to puy a new rear when it breaks under the added HP
Along with a ton of other thing$.
Check...the...stickies.

They make it painfully obvious that F.I is nowhere NEAR cheap, and similar HP goals can be reached A LOT of other/cheaper ways.

For 7 grand you could H/C(450hp) and N20(200HP) your car. Thats 650 hp for around 5 grand. Then throw in 2k for a rear end.

Sideways240sx

iTrader: (22)

The other thing is alot of your Lower hp Na cars will run similiar times to a higher hp turbo car.

Turbo is far from cheap. You can kinda do it on a budget, but it better be a pretty big one..

My kit is homemade, and with turbo stuff, fueling, tunning, and a rear, tires, Gauges, List goes on and on. i easily have over 10k into my car.

I still havm't touched the trans, or motor yet.(just did push rods and valve springs)

So with 10 k. i think you could do a semi reliable 500 hp turbo car. I would say about 20k to do a semi reliable 800hp turbo car.


Chris

1fast bird

iTrader: (22)

I have $15,000 in just parts alone for my turbo build.that doesn't even include all the pipes I must fab up.I'm just trying to do it right the first time.

Sluggish

iTrader: (10)

I am at about 15k now price including motor, turbo kit, and other small parts.

GrandmasterCow

iTrader: (5)

I've got around $17k invested in my boosted WS6 and i still have few things to do,\

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

turbos arent cheap by any means what so ever but is definately the way to go in my opinion. also doing an lsx build isnt cheap either. ill have just about 12000 just into my turbo stuff and theres missing things here and there and then about 22000 into the big block going into the car but i mean im trying to do something more radical here. the point being is, is that you should do it right the first time and get the best parts that have been proven and not cut any corners. by doing that it drives up the price a lot more. total up parts you want and all that and then i would say relistically add about another 40% to it and thats probablly where your budget should be at especially if your not doing any of the labor yourself. theres a saying i tend to go by. fast,cheap,reliable pick 2 and you dont get the other.

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

I've got about 5700 in my build.

People seem to overlook the instrumentation part of turboing. Its not cheap....

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

Ive got around 5K in my entire engine, tranny, and everything supporting the turbo...fuel system, wideband, HP tuners, ....everything. Its very reliable.....has been for 3 years now.

extremetoy

iTrader: (17)

i totally overlooked that part and now ive got over 800 in gauges alone

cracker

iTrader: (1)

The only advice I can offer is research every since part you need, from the oil drain flange, to the bolts, turbo, wastegate, bov, mount bolts, flange gaskets, v-band kits, coating, tubing (bends), silicone, t-bolt clamps, etc etc. Don't forget shipping, taxes, etc.

Then have someone look over it. Then have someone else look over it.

You still wont get everything but it will give you a better idea of where you stand on parts and budget.

-W

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I spent like 5500 for my twin turbo kit when they first came out special price. Another 5 into the short block and another close to 5 into the top end. Still need to finish up fuel system 1500 not counting the injectors which already bought for another 500 or so.
Still want a rear end for 3000 and a tranny and stall so another 5000 there but will get some money back from selling my t56 and clutch and my 346 and stock rear end.
Already put several more thouand into the car previously into brakes and suspension.
And did just put 1000 or so into guages and boost controller and still want alc injection another 600 bucks there. And if hope to hook this thing at track will need to spend another 300 or 400 on tires .
So you can see it certainly adds up. But it is one hell of a car and likely faster than I will ever need or use. But can turn the boost up or down as I see fit and the 408 even without any boost is powerful.

There are several ways to cut corners I went pretty much first class. Oh and didn't add in any labor. Paid some here and there for various things I did so say another 2000 or 3000 there. I did a fair bit myself on the car.

So the cheap way..ok..370 engine iron block just put in forged pistons and rods cranks are strong or forge up your 346 rods and pistons. again cranks are pretty strong.
Buy used kit maybe sts kit used or possibly aps used or whatever. They come around here and there. Then buy most of your other stuff used..fuel injectors..mabye rear end. With careful shopping you could cut the price of a build way down. But it would take patience.

Sometimes I think should just have kept my car stock. And maybe bought a vette a used one as second car and maybe left it stock. But then I take my ta for a drive, here those turbos spool ,feel the crazy power rush and then I think well maybe it was worth it. I definitely don't need more power. I need more traction. And really don't think will go much over 800rwhp or so. Its just not needed. 600rwhp is plennty on the street and still fast enough I think to hit 9s which requires a lot of crap on most tracks .Full cage,medical etc.

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

i got 2000 into just a turbo and another 1100 just in gauges alone but i have a full autometer setup and everything is full sweep electrical with built in warning lights. but then again im doing a radical 25.5 build. i mean forced induction and cheap arent to words that go together. personally i would think of your future power goals to if you even plan to make more so that you can accomedate on a motor and stuff now so that your not buying a lot of new parts later.

TNTramair

iTrader: (15)

i stopped counting after 15k...and i havent done my rear or trans yet. OH THE JOY!!

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

I'm not saying what i have in mu current turbo build....and i already had the bottom end and rear and suspension.


The old saying holds true with FI "You can do it cheap, or you can do it right"

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Spray is going to be the cheapest route (initially) then any for of FI. 10K could get you to 800 rwhp but if you dont have the suspension, drivetrain, rear, fuel system, etc for it then why bother? Im sure you could do a budget build with a lq9 block, 4" crank, forged rods and pistons, nitrous rings, milled heads (up compression for more power though not sure what heads you would use 317's/LS6/etc), stock intake with DP system spraying 250-300 shot, and fuel system for Maybe 10K if you do the work yourself but I think you would end up on the short side. JMO.