lq4 or lsx
#1
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lq4 or lsx
im trying to decide what block to start off with. first im plaing on making a 800+whp monster via turbocharger no idea what body the motor is going into. i deffinetly dont want to go with a stock aluminum block. i wanna build something stong that will last for a decent amount of miles/passes and cam even be used as a daily driver. i was planing on using a lq4 but it seems kinda dumb when im gonna buy a new rotating assembley and have everything machined anyway. i see em on summit racing for 2k even. is this a better idea. you have to realize that im starting with absolutley nothing as far as a motor goes. will this end up being much stronger, and is it worth it getting a new block lsx block over a lq4.
#4
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Definatly agree with Tj. You could hit 800 with a forged alum ls1, without to much worry. I would say 6.0 should be good to around 1000 whp with some good 6.0 heads.
If you went with a head with a thicker deck such as Afr, you could probably push the 6.0 into the 1200-1400 whp range before you push water.
If you want more then that, you would want to look @ lsx.
Chris
If you went with a head with a thicker deck such as Afr, you could probably push the 6.0 into the 1200-1400 whp range before you push water.
If you want more then that, you would want to look @ lsx.
Chris
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as far as cost effective is it better to get a lq4 or lq9 and have that built instead of an lsx. i see getting a lq4 and having it machined as amost as much as an lsx block which im assuming comes ready to assemble. also have any of you ever found that mabey 800whp is too much. all the hp in the world doesnt do anything if i dont hook. with a custom suspension mabey a 3 or 4 link will it actualyl grap on a street tire and allow me to make turns.
#6
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You will still need to machine the LSX block before use, so for 800whp the 6.0 block would be plenty durable and cheaper.
Any block you purchase will require proper machine work before use.
Quick engine basic parts list
regular 6.0 block
scat/eagle h-beam rods with the upgraded arp2000 bolts
reuse the stock crank and balance it to the new parts
decent heads with patriot extreme duals and s/s valves
forged pistons designed for 9.0-1 comp with your heads
mild boost cam
Any block you purchase will require proper machine work before use.
Quick engine basic parts list
regular 6.0 block
scat/eagle h-beam rods with the upgraded arp2000 bolts
reuse the stock crank and balance it to the new parts
decent heads with patriot extreme duals and s/s valves
forged pistons designed for 9.0-1 comp with your heads
mild boost cam
#7
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Another vote for the iron 6.0 and I would say just look for a built/forged shortblock from one of the sponsors as it will be machined, balanced, and ready to go. The grab a set of ported 317 heads, dual springs, FI cam and you should be good to go. I would suggest compstar/callies forged rods/arp rodbolts, stock crank, diamond/wiseco/mahle dished forged pistons, and head studs.
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#8
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I have no idea what happened to the great boosted lists that used to be stickied to top of this forum. They had so many combos you could easily study and copy if you wanted. The boosted lists are still there if you search for like boosted list 2006.
But you have to use the search.There you will find many builds with the 6.0 iron blocks and many past 1000rwhp pretty sure as said mid 1000s are fine on a 6.0 with thicker deck heads like the afr. I would use an lsx block for two reason. One trying to go 7s or maybe low 8s and trying for over 1500 rwhp.
The other one is for NA bulds where you want the 427 or big displacements.
My personal experience is a 370 iron block is plenty and an 402 or 408 is also lots with any good FI setup. You will not be complaining about power just traction with any of the above. 800rwhp is crazy power. Sure you have guys that talk about 1400 or whatever but believe me 800 rwhp on the street is stupid power and should give 8s at the track with the right setup.
But you have to use the search.There you will find many builds with the 6.0 iron blocks and many past 1000rwhp pretty sure as said mid 1000s are fine on a 6.0 with thicker deck heads like the afr. I would use an lsx block for two reason. One trying to go 7s or maybe low 8s and trying for over 1500 rwhp.
The other one is for NA bulds where you want the 427 or big displacements.
My personal experience is a 370 iron block is plenty and an 402 or 408 is also lots with any good FI setup. You will not be complaining about power just traction with any of the above. 800rwhp is crazy power. Sure you have guys that talk about 1400 or whatever but believe me 800 rwhp on the street is stupid power and should give 8s at the track with the right setup.
#9
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+1 on the power levels! Have you driven a 500+ rwhp car on the street nevermind an 800+ rwhp car? Not trying to be a jerk but 800+ rwhp is a lot on the street, especially if you will ocassionally be DDing it. Been in a few procharged 500 rwhp camaros and a KB 04 cobra at 550 rwhp and it was insane trying to control at lower speeds.
#10
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it will probably see the strip only a few times total im not a big straight line guy. most of the driving i do for fun in ct is mostly twisty back roads, highway runs and hopefully a few track days at limerock or watkens glen. i havent driven anything over 400whp but my daily driver is a extremly modified 95 impreza. its got a full sti drivetrain and handles amazing. with a little over 250whp it pulls at 2600 lb. i know 250whp isnt much but by butt dyno its faster than 330 whp new sti's and 400whp c6 vettes. right now im looking to get back into v8s to gain mostly torque and some power while im at it. im also sick of the import world where everything is bolt on. im trying to get back to some real fabrication. this motor isnt going into a gen 4 camaro. it will probably either be a 70-73 firebird or datsun 240 still open to suggestions on the body but it will have a custom rear set up probably 3 link mabey even independent so hopefully it will hook decently and turn. probably 800 whp max should be a good goal with that, anything more wont hook or will be a little too dangerous in turns.
thanks for your inputs guys
thanks for your inputs guys
#11
I would agree, that running over 800RWH is tough to hook up on the street,
My car will only get decent traction using the best MT 275X17 Drag radial in 3rd,,better in 4th and 5th
1st and 2nd doesn't hook too great on the street, but on aa good track prep it hooks like crazy.
keep in mind my car wieghs 3950 with driver.
My car will only get decent traction using the best MT 275X17 Drag radial in 3rd,,better in 4th and 5th
1st and 2nd doesn't hook too great on the street, but on aa good track prep it hooks like crazy.
keep in mind my car wieghs 3950 with driver.