View Poll Results: What times and hp numbers will I have after installing mods and getting tune?
install all of those things and get a dyno tune you will be running 13.2-13.5 with 295-300 rwhp
38.10%
install all of those things, get a dyno tune you will be running 13.5-13.8 with 290-295 rwhp
19.05%
install those and get a tune you will be running lower hp numbers and higher 1/4 (please specify
0
0%
those & get tune youll be running you will be running higher hp number and lower 1/4 (plsspecify)
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 21. You may not vote on this poll
Are these numbers and times realistic? Tell me what you think!!
#1
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Are these numbers and times realistic? Tell me what you think!!
Alright guys, I have seen posts like this before and now that I have started modding I can finally start one too. I am looking to see what kinda numbers I should have to the rw and times I should be running with these mods. Cant remember the tire specs I have, but there is still some good stick to them. Car is an M6, 1994, Trans AM with 90.000 miles(oil recently changed with synthetic) Before the end of January these mods will be on the car. The ones with the $$$ next to them means I already have it or it is about to get shipped all the other stuff I am looking for and if you have it, let me know. I put hp guesses next to all of them and what 1/4 time I think I would run with the addition of each mod:
GMMG$$$ 13.9-14.2/255
LPP LT headers$$$ 13.6-13.9/275-280
LPP ORY$$$ 13.6-13.9/275-280
air foil$$$ 13.6-13.9/277-283
TB bypass$$$ 13.5-13.9/280-289
LT4 KM 13.5-13.8/283-292
Moroso CAI 13.3-13.6/291-302
Polished intake elbow 13.3-13.6/293-304
free ram air mod 13.2-13.5/296-308
MGW or B&M short throw shifter 13.1-13.5 NA
OTVC plugs and wires 13.0-13.4/300-312
160* thermostat$$$ 12.99-13.3/302-316
MSD ignition coil box 12.8-13.3/305-319
Dyno tune 12.4-12.7/329-3339 OR mail order tune 12.6-12.8 325-330
Please let me know if my numbers are inaccurate...They are all guesses. and assuming I shift well. I have a G-tech perfomance meter to help with that.
GMMG$$$ 13.9-14.2/255
LPP LT headers$$$ 13.6-13.9/275-280
LPP ORY$$$ 13.6-13.9/275-280
air foil$$$ 13.6-13.9/277-283
TB bypass$$$ 13.5-13.9/280-289
LT4 KM 13.5-13.8/283-292
Moroso CAI 13.3-13.6/291-302
Polished intake elbow 13.3-13.6/293-304
free ram air mod 13.2-13.5/296-308
MGW or B&M short throw shifter 13.1-13.5 NA
OTVC plugs and wires 13.0-13.4/300-312
160* thermostat$$$ 12.99-13.3/302-316
MSD ignition coil box 12.8-13.3/305-319
Dyno tune 12.4-12.7/329-3339 OR mail order tune 12.6-12.8 325-330
Please let me know if my numbers are inaccurate...They are all guesses. and assuming I shift well. I have a G-tech perfomance meter to help with that.
#4
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Alright guys, I have seen posts like this before and now that I have started modding I can finally start one too. I am looking to see what kinda numbers I should have to the rw and times I should be running with these mods. Cant remember the tire specs I have, but there is still some good stick to them. Car is an M6, 1994, Trans AM with 90.000 miles(oil recently changed with synthetic) Before the end of January these mods will be on the car. The ones with the $$$ next to them means I already have it or it is about to get shipped all the other stuff I am looking for and if you have it, let me know. I put hp guesses next to all of them and what 1/4 time I think I would run with the addition of each mod:
GMMG$$$ 13.9-14.2/255
LPP LT headers$$$ 13.6-13.9/275-280
LPP ORY$$$ 13.6-13.9/275-280
air foil$$$ 13.6-13.9/277-283
TB bypass$$$ 13.5-13.9/280-289
LT4 KM 13.5-13.8/283-292
Moroso CAI 13.3-13.6/291-302
Polished intake elbow 13.3-13.6/293-304
free ram air mod 13.2-13.5/296-308
MGW or B&M short throw shifter 13.1-13.5 NA
OTVC plugs and wires 13.0-13.4/300-312
160* thermostat$$$ 12.99-13.3/302-316
MSD ignition coil box 12.8-13.3/305-319
Dyno tune 12.4-12.7/329-3339 OR mail order tune 12.6-12.8 325-330
Please let me know if my numbers are inaccurate...They are all guesses. and assuming I shift well. I have a G-tech perfomance meter to help with that.
GMMG$$$ 13.9-14.2/255
LPP LT headers$$$ 13.6-13.9/275-280
LPP ORY$$$ 13.6-13.9/275-280
air foil$$$ 13.6-13.9/277-283
TB bypass$$$ 13.5-13.9/280-289
LT4 KM 13.5-13.8/283-292
Moroso CAI 13.3-13.6/291-302
Polished intake elbow 13.3-13.6/293-304
free ram air mod 13.2-13.5/296-308
MGW or B&M short throw shifter 13.1-13.5 NA
OTVC plugs and wires 13.0-13.4/300-312
160* thermostat$$$ 12.99-13.3/302-316
MSD ignition coil box 12.8-13.3/305-319
Dyno tune 12.4-12.7/329-3339 OR mail order tune 12.6-12.8 325-330
Please let me know if my numbers are inaccurate...They are all guesses. and assuming I shift well. I have a G-tech perfomance meter to help with that.
I'm not one to guess times...too much comes into play
Last edited by Elliott's94Z; 12-20-2008 at 10:15 AM.
#5
Banned
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A QTP Cutout w/ that set up..somewhere in the 5-8@ the rear
Pulleys maybe 1-2 hp gain...I noticed more of a throttle response off the line then anything. You will have a lot of guys tell you they noticed nothing which was prob the case. I just did it to top everything off.
#6
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I'd say you'd be getting just over 300rwhp with an M6, and running a low 13. Add an EWP and some 1.6 or 1.7 RR's, and you could see upwards of 320rwhp, and get a little closer to mid-high 12's. But, you're definately going to need gears and DR's to be at a consistant mid 12. To get into the lower part of 12's, you'll need all of that, and a little weight reduction.
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#8
TECH Addict
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Don't get Nitto555R2's, they're an autocross tire. Go with the original 555R's. I've got a set of 275's on my ZR1's. They hook hard, and have a lot of tread left for having 8-9k on them. They're getting ditched for my new 315's though, since I ordered some 17x11 ZR1's a couple days ago.
#10
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pick up an underdrive pulley and do a manual fan switch and you have the same mods as me minus a tune. I would bet your in the 290-310rwhp range and will run 12.9 with good air to 13.4 with ok air. Good luck on your build man its definatly a ton of fun to drive after modding. Are you going catted or non catted? are you delting your egr and air? those wont make a diference but will clean up under the hood and look better.
#12
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Ty
I see. I never really considered roller rockers because I figured I would need to pay someone to install them, but I thought I would force myself to do the real boltons myself. The car is my daily driver, but I would like to be able to run low 11s one day with a heads/cam setup and maybe some nitrous. After much deliberation, helpful information, and CamaroCorey telling me about a special for $300 for a full dyno tune that is near me in Florida...I am going with a dyno tune because I figure it will net me more hp and I should get a generous discount for a retune when I add internal engine mods.
Right now I just want to install all the engine boltons. I know suspension is crucial to any setup, but I know next to nothing about it so I will study and do my homework to see what is what. I don't want to have to worry about my *** every time I launch or slam gears; therefore I will upgrade to a 9 in as soon as possible and will prob do new tires and maybe wheels around that same time.
I can easily see 320 + rwhp being attainable with full full boltons. Would a Lloyd elliot cam work fine if I planned to hit a 200 wet shot every now and then? Or do I need a nitrous cam? I may forge the engine and stroke it to a 355...but alas all of that is distant future plans.
Thanks and please keep telling me what you think. I love drinking up information.
Right now I just want to install all the engine boltons. I know suspension is crucial to any setup, but I know next to nothing about it so I will study and do my homework to see what is what. I don't want to have to worry about my *** every time I launch or slam gears; therefore I will upgrade to a 9 in as soon as possible and will prob do new tires and maybe wheels around that same time.
I can easily see 320 + rwhp being attainable with full full boltons. Would a Lloyd elliot cam work fine if I planned to hit a 200 wet shot every now and then? Or do I need a nitrous cam? I may forge the engine and stroke it to a 355...but alas all of that is distant future plans.
Thanks and please keep telling me what you think. I love drinking up information.
#13
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hey im pretty sure he is wantin to run the 1/4 mile and not around the circle track. Nitto 555RII's are a road race tire so the stiff side wall is going to hurt your 60 ft. time bad.
#18
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I'd say you'd be getting just over 300rwhp with an M6, and running a low 13. Add an EWP and some 1.6 or 1.7 RR's, and you could see upwards of 320rwhp, and get a little closer to mid-high 12's. But, you're definately going to need gears and DR's to be at a consistant mid 12. To get into the lower part of 12's, you'll need all of that, and a little weight reduction.
#19
Nope.
You are added way too much ET for some of those mods you have listed. The ignition box will not drop a tenth, neither will a shifter, or new plugs and wires.
You are basically adding headers, a cat-back, a CAI, and a tune. Those are the biggies. Figure your car was a 14.0-14.3 car to begin with, and now you added about 45-60hp to it. You'll be in the 13's, probably 13.3ish, or 8.5ish in the 1/8th.
You are added way too much ET for some of those mods you have listed. The ignition box will not drop a tenth, neither will a shifter, or new plugs and wires.
You are basically adding headers, a cat-back, a CAI, and a tune. Those are the biggies. Figure your car was a 14.0-14.3 car to begin with, and now you added about 45-60hp to it. You'll be in the 13's, probably 13.3ish, or 8.5ish in the 1/8th.