bronko91

iTrader: (4)

Help Mr. Wizard.......

OK, this is an 05 GTO M6 with a forged bottom end, AL block, PM-FL Blower 3 cam (that has been tweaked for Turbo), DART Pro 225 heads (prepped by PM-FL), Vic Jr manifold, Intake Elbows elbow, and APS Twin Turbo kit.

I had an issue with the oil sending unit, but worked through that one. So now I am getting this code: P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance. You can see on run 1 when this happened. Happened rather quickly. So I followed the books, did all of the troubleshooting. It pointed to replacing the sensor. So I replaced the sensor, started it up and got to temp. At about the 7 min mark, idle went high (command was 900) from 1000 to 1100 and threw a code. Don't remember the code (it was an idle high error) because right after it came on, the 336 came on and it all went to ****. When you look at the run, everything went away. So I shut it down and it would not run on it's own after that.

I have no idea where to go next. I verified it has a 24 tooth reluctor so it is not a mismatch and if it was it would not have run for 7 min. So where to now?

Jerry

edit: After thinking about this all night, as usual, I came up with 2 things it could be. Either there is some resistance issue with the wire or the reluctor is installed wrong. Remember this is a turbo install and that kit requires the wire to this sensor be cut and lengthened to get it away from the turbo. Now I have done all voltage checks and they are where they should be. But could the reisistance be an issue? I don't know, I am not that big into 'trons.

My biggest question here is can there be something else I am missing? After all, look at what happens when this code comes in. It affects everything across the board. Any ideas?

1320

iTrader: (6)

Jerry, I cant speak on the sensor/or wiring, as I have not really had too much trouble regarding crank sensors. (other then burned wiring that was obvious and easy to fix)

I do have alittle experience with reluctors though. I was hired at one point to test some cranks, that some other shops reported a problem with. The wholesaler gave me some cranks to test. The short story, is that I got pretty good at changing reluctors because there werte all bad. The crank manufacturer messed up the crank design on the face surface of where the reluctor mounts. They did it for looks, because on the side you can see after the reluctor was installed, appeared to have a ridge that people would quetion. Anyways by doing so, it caused the outside edge of teh reluctor to hit the crank counter weight and destroy the reluctor alignment. I would suspect that many could run that way, but I never tried it. To even check it, you would need a scope to send through the crank sensor hole or you would have to pull the pan. With the pan off, if the reluctor is touching the crank counterweight its probably atleast alittle wrong. You should be able to just get a peice of paper inbetween the reluctor and counter weight. If its touching its highly likely that the reluctor is tweaked on the other side absent of the counterweight causing pretty big alignment problems with the reluctor wheel. The ones I tested, were all in the .030 and greater area, and when I fixed them I was easily able to get to less then .005....and less.

I hope your problem is somewhere else. Yes I know they sold some of cranks, even after they new about the problem. I only tested and fixed a few compared the the (about 1000) that they had.

bronko91

iTrader: (4)

What brand were they? I believe this is an Eagle crank.

bronko91

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE:
OK, so I made negative ground this past week. I have removed the sensor, tested, inspected, all was good. I cut out and redid all solder connections and wrapped it in electrical tape and then aluminumized heat insulation tape. I also cut and lengthened the knock sensor wire so I could reroute it way from the manifold and the #8 wire. The book says one of the items could be it is picking up intereference from the secondary ingition system. So I made that go away.

So I fired it up and ran great, for 5 min. I have to analyze the runs side by side but it looks like it ran for the same amount of time before this occured. It gets to temp, then all electrical sensors flatline on HPT. Short Trim, Long Trim, MAP. MAF, O2 - both banks, all go flat, the idle increases about 100 dropping a code, then it goes to **** and drops the 336 code which is crank position sensor performance.

So I am thinking it is something else I am overlooking and the 336 is a result of whatever that is rather than actually being the problem. The question is, what? So I may try another ECU and see what that does. This is a 5 star puzzle.

Oh and just to add to the fun, last night it sounded like the throwout bearing gave out. When I shoved the clutch in before killing it, it sounded like the front of the trans was trying to rotate. This is a brand new slave and bearing that I got when we installed the OZ700HD. It has worked just fine while bleeding and everytime it has been run so far. Now it dies? Now? WTF?

bronko91

iTrader: (4)

ANOTHER UPDATE:
I got this from AMS racing, the builder of the shortblock.

Jerry,

There is only one way for the reluctor to go on, and we check run-out; so I'm sure it's installed properly. Sounds like there is a resistance issue with the crank sensor though. Keep us informed on it, and if we think of anything else we'll email you.

Thanks,

Raymond

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

This may or may not help you. I have had every kind of bug you can have with codes and chasing them down. Check all your grounds. Esp the one on the drivers rear head. I even had the crank sensor code.

After reading this def check your grounds same issue I was having. Also check for a burnt wire.

When I had the ground issue I had MAF, MAP, O2, both banks maxing out at +25. So thats way I am really pointing to a ground.

1320

iTrader: (6)

The cranks could be almost anyones. Many come from the same place, overseas, and then each company finishes them the way they want.

As for reluctors.....there are non oem reluctors and oem reluctors. For putting them on, even with the jig, they can go on two ways, and then there is a substantial variance in actual jig degree variance. This accounts for the reason that some cars take more timing then others. The actual timing is probably pretty close to the same, due to variances in the reluctor. You can rotate it 5 degrees easily putting them on.

The only problems Ive personally seen with eagles were the crank pilot bushing hole being to big.

I still hope its ground issue or pcm issue or something, and they are probably more likly then a reluctor issue.
I recently had a false knock issue, that could not be cured, until a simple pcm swap, and gone. The od part, is that the "false knock" pcm was tested in another car, and no knock. LOL.....really.

bronko91

iTrader: (4)

Not sure yet, but I think I might have this one beat. I will know in a few days as I had to pull the trans due to a noise. Seems I got another bad Eagle crank and need to replace the pilot bushing with a special one from them.

CASE Learn. Crankshaft Angle Sensor Error Learn. The book says you must do this whenever you disturb or replace the sensor, or when you replace the PCM, or when you replace the engine. I have swapped an LS2 from one GTO to another with no effect. However, I was having horrendous missfires on my engine after I replaced the shortblock with a new one. So I think this procedure will fix 2 cars.

You get to it on the HPT Scanner. The procedure is on HPTuners.com or in the tech manual. HPT website says they fixed CASE Learn for the Gen 4 in the latest (2.22) version. Before it only worked for throttle cable cars. It would stop the process as the throttle is open too far on a ETC car. But that is fixed now. Will post up later this week.