Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Guys, who can give me the bore size's on the aluminum blocks, as well as max bore? Also, are there any strength differences between's the aluminum blcks? And, last but not least, how much can the blocks safely handle? Reason I am asking is I am building a 414" 6.0 truck block motor (.060 over) and was thinking about going aluminum block. I already have the crank, rods, pistons, block at the machine shop. So before any more work is done, I was thinking of going aluminum to save weight. So, can you guys help me out?

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

.020 is kinda pushing it on a oem lsx aluminum block,
.010 is safer. your best bet is a ls3/l92 block, they come with 4.065 bore stock, a .010 would yield 417ci.
i have gone .080 on a lq4 block before, but block was cleared for bore after being sonic tested.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Well, teh thing is, I am kind of stuck with a 4.060 bore, as I already have my pistons. So, that rules out the L92 block, since it starts out too big.

Are there any aluminum blocks that will accomodate a 4.060 bore, would have been a better question. More specific anyways.

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

if you are real serious about going aluminum, you could always guy a new set of pistons and sell or send back your old ones. LS6 block can go about 3.910 or whatever, LS2 can go 4.010 or so, and LS7 is already 4.125, so thats out too. But you should be able to get a set of pistons for $500-$800, and after just selling yours you would probably still not be doing too bad. This also depends on how much work is already done to the block as well.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Yeah, my Wiseco set me back $550. I was trying to make this as cost effective as possible. I can look into sending them back, but was hoping to avoid that. I am pretty sure my block has not been touched yet. So, I was just hoping to pick up a block, go get my iron one from the machine shop and then sell it and done. Finished. But, from what you guys are telling me, there is not a bore that will fit my needs. Well, no biggie. Will finish this build and go have some fun and will probaly do another build later on or something with an aluminum block. Since I like big bore's, look s like my only opyion is theLS7 and LS3. How much power are those 2 known to handle? What can I expect to pay for a LS3 or a LS7 block?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

LS7 Block has alot more work than you think, you have to account for the Dry-Sump Oiling System.

I would go with a 6.2l Block over an LS7 Block.

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

I can dry sleeve an LS2 block for 4.060" bore or any size from 3.9" to 4.190". I have done several smaller bore blocks for NHRA Stock Eliminator racers. These "smaller" bore blocks are working out great. Sleeves are 5.800", as with the other Darton sleeves, to better support the pistons especially with stroker cranks.

Steve

Stang's Bane

iTrader: (22)

The only thing I had to do besides the gen3 to gen 4 conversion stuff was drill a hole for the dipstick and bolt on my stock ls1 oil pan.

JDP

iTrader: (21)

he said he was trying to do this as cost effective as possible.

im running an aluminum block, it was built at canadian performance. dave diluca told me the shortblock was good to 1k+ at the flywheel. the biggest thing is holding the heads down.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

OK, thanks guys. Alot of good info here, thanks! It looks as though there really is not what one would call a cost effective way here. Or, atleast just a simple plug and play. So, it is safe to assume that I will just toss that idea to the side, and finish my current motor. Like I mentioned above, I will just go have some fun with this motor, get the chassis/clutch dialed in, and next season pick up an aluminum block, and proably sell this motor off and build up a more serious one for the NA LSx class. While I figure my current motor will make 700-725+ FWHP, I will need @ 800-850 HP to be competitive. And running an aluminum block will obviously shave some serous weight off the nose of the car. Current combo is 414" 6.0 iron truck block, L92 heads (flowed 35x/24x @ .700), 12-1, solid roller 26x/27x @ .050 .7xx/.7xx, 1050 Dominator, sheetmetal intake backed by a T56 through a Ford 8.8 w/ 4.56's on 28-10.5's in a Fox Body Mustang GT. With a Powerglide and small block Ford with driver, car went @ 2800+ LBS

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

sounds like its gonna be fun to drive on the street

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Ya know that's right! After I get the car running, gonna paint it Base Coat/clear coat, withOUT the clear coat, Army Green. Rims are blacked out. All trim is flat back, and interior is black with Army Green trim. That is, once the car is running

LSC1Vette

Looking at over-boring my ls2 (aluminum) block ... found a publication/pdf (GM Performance Parts 2008.pdf) that mentions over-boring for ls2 is limited to .030. In addition, also heard if you go .030, you should have the block sonic tested. I'm planning on going .020 ... this also seems to be obtainable over-bore piston size.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

i would not take out that much material if it was me, 4.01 is fine.
4.02 or 4.03 is not worth comprimising block integrity for 5-10 ci

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Agreed. Not too much room for overbore on it at all. Really only options is to hone it, and hope that it will take, or to sleeve it, like what I offer


Had fun at teh track on Friday night NemeSS...you need to come out next time.
Track was hooking GOOD! We rolled out on just plain old street tires, and I made 4 runs (each getting quicker) and I kept expecting to blow the tires off, but she just kept hooking. I am willing to bet, I could have got a 1.8x 60' on street tires (1.90 easily) that night if I made a few more passes that night.

Started off 1st pass with a horrible 2.30 60' (bogged BAD)
2nd pass 2.23 60' (again, bogged)
3rd pass 2.15 60' (yep, bogged)
4th pass 2.02 (Bogged JUST a little)

After that, we loaded up, was getting late. Car was a customers car that I was driving...full exhaust, tune, stock intake and throttle body (no port work), stock 3.42 gear set, M6, even had a set of cold plugs for nitrous installed.
I tried one pass on nitrous, but clutch would not hold it, slipped all the way down track.
Weighed with 1/4 tank of fuel, and with me (220 LBS) in it, car went 3530 (98 Formula).
Motor passes
Started out with a 13.30 @ 110
Dropped 13.23 @ 111
13.10 @ 111
and I clicked off a 12.90 @ 111 on the last pass.

On a 100 shot, it went a 12.50 @ 118 (again, clutch slipped BAAAADD)
With 3.42s in 4th gear @ 1000-1100 foot out, I was bouncing off teh rev limiter clutch was slipping so bad on nitrous.
On motor, I was able to go through the traps in 3rd gear @ 111 MPH.

I am installing a Monster Clutch this week in his car, he is problay gonna pick up a LS2 intake and we are gonna put on one of my 90MM TB's, and try it again.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

yea, im gonna have go out there next time.
too bad both my cars in paperweight mode

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

****, I feel ya!! How do you think I felt when my customer says, "Do you want to drive it?" I was like HELL YEAH!! Give me the keys!

This guy Neme, he's real cool (and funny). He is out of Pasadena, and works for the Pasadena Police Deparment, and is @ your age. You'll like him.
We are gonna do teh clutch on Thursday now, and in teh next week or so, gonna do heads/intake/TB. He has a set of 243's that we had milled, sitting at his house, and gonna have them cleaned up/larger valves, LS2 intake, and the FRE 90MM TB....

I am just real surprised it is trapping that much MPH as it sits right now (111 MPH on motor) for stock untouched LS1 heads/TB/full weight car.