Jeff 97 Formula

A few weeks ago I took the car to the dealer for noises in the steering system. They diagnosed a few loose bolts but along the way, they say I have a weak transmission mount (auto tranny). I tell them to go ahead and replace it.

Now I get on it for the first time since, and notice a lot of popping noises (sounds like it is coming from the rear). This is the first time EVER that I experience this. Drivetrain acts normal when I drive normal. Any ideas? Please help!! Thanks!!!!

Jeff 97 Formula

Oops, sorry. I meant to post in the auto transmission forum. Please move it there (and delete this response).

TransAm11973

well is it coming from the trans tunnel area??...I know that the newer rubber trans mounts are softer then the original stock ones. Its a softer rubber over all and has more give...This is why I went to a energy suspension trans mount....has just enough cushion but its fairly sturdy so you wont get the trans hopping up and hitting the tunnel. I have been extremely happy with it.....if you decide to get a ES mount make sure you grind down the rubber bumps on it flat( when you get it you will understand) and do not use the pre load plate that comes with it. It can change your shaft angle for the worse....let e know if you need help installing if you get it.....it may not be the problem but it sure sounds like it

TransAm11973

also take that piece of **** stock mount back and get a refund

Jeff 97 Formula

Thanks TransAm11973, sounds pretty believable since I know for sure, not only did this not happen before they changed the transmission mount, but is isn't NORMAL! And yes it sounds like it is coming anywhere from the transmission tunnel to the rear axle (which was previously rebuilt).

I just looked underneath the car and did not notice any evidence of any parts colliding with each other (driveshaft is what I was mostly looking at since I have a driveshaft loop). Where else should I look?

Funny, I don't experience this if I punch it from a complete stop (the tires still spin pretty good). I also don't experience if I am cruising around 40-50 and punch it (downshift into second).

So in actuality, my stock mount they called "weak" was stronger than the new one I have now? I purposely went to the dealer thinking I was going to get exactly what was originally on the car.

Blackhawk777

How hard is a trans mount swap anyways? I have the energy suspension part and was curious how hard and how long it took. I'm fairly adept to tools, so that's not a concern.

Jeff 97 Formula

So, what should I do? Should I buy the Energy Suspnsion mounts and demand the dealer to install them and take the new stock mount back? I intend to call them tomorrow morning.

Blackhawk777

Well if the dealer in question is anything like the local ones here, they'll laugh at you for wanting that piece put in. You are probably better off doin it yourself, or having a buddy who's done those before help. I've "heard" it takes about a half hour tops to install one, so it's not a bad job. window motors are harder to do and I did one myself in about an hour.

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

Very easy, jackstands, a jack and some sockets and you can do it in the driveway. Here's a writeup:

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...y_mount_m6.htm

Jeff 97 Formula

Is this the same for an auto? My new rear tranny mount looks pretty similar (I have an auto).

TransAm11973

the new stock mounts are the same as the old ones as far as shape goes but yes it is a softer rubber and it move a lot more.....it may be real hard to see where the trans is hitting the tunnel....it will be on the very top and a small area of contact.....install is easy....get the front on ramps or jack stands.......support the tail end of the trans with a jack( you do not want the trans to drop down once you remove the crossmember bolts, you can really hurt yourself and damage your car), remove the center bolt that holds the mount to the crossmember....remove the crossmember,....remove the mount.....put the new mount on trans, bolt cross member back on, put the bolt that hold the mounts to the cross member back on. make sure you bolts are torqued to specs.......use the install univ. link, it has pictures. Its a good reference. let me knoe if you have more questions

TransAm11973

like i said before though if you get the ES mount...make sure you grind down the bumps on the top so its is flat agaisnt the bottom of the trans. and do not use the preload plate. this will change your drive shaft angle causing future issues

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

It should be the same, yes.

Jeff 97 Formula

Quick update:

I went to the dealer this afternoon to demonstrate the issue to the mechanic that worked on the car. He admits the tranny mount is NOT an OEM, but an aftermarket (he said it's supposed to be a good aftermarket replacement).

They agreed to get an exact OEM replacement and swap it out when it comes in.

I am also thinking, could it be the rear? I seem to experience this popping issue mostly when the rear wheels are breaking loose (although this has NEVER happened before replacing the tranny mount).

TransAm11973

if you took it to a pontiac dealer. they are going to install a gm part, no aftermarket...i have a hard time believing that dealer is installing aftermarket part... I am not saying you are bullshitting,....but I think they are....can we get a picture off the "aftermarket" one they put in?

Jeff 97 Formula

I'll try to get a picture.

I did get a quick update and was told if this doesn't correct, it could possibly be a u-joint (I assume driveshaft). Then again, as long as I drive normal, everything seems fine.

EDIT -- They say it is about a $50 difference between the OEM and the one that they installed (OEM is more).

TransAm11973

sure looks like a stock 97 trans mount to me. Also did you check you torque arm mount to see if that is bad?? I had the same issue you are describing, and replaced both and no more thumping. Have you checked your u joints? They are on the ends of the drive shaft

Jeff 97 Formula

I looked at my receipt and noticed part number EM2817, appears to be made by Westar.

Torque arm, not sure what to look for. It's still there, and is connected.

U-joints -- dealer said if the mount doesn't correct the issue, that's the next thing he's thinking.

http://frugalmechanic.com/auto-part/...ine-mount#fits

Jeff 97 Formula

Not sure how to inspect, but I did try jiggling the driveshaft up and down near the rear u-joint and it didn't seem to have any play in it.

Also, I had it on the highway at 55-60mph with no issues (afaik, this is the speed most f-body owners notice the effects from an unbalanced steel driveshaft). While going 55-60mph, I tried flooring it and it kicked back into 2nd gear, no issues there either.

TransAm11973

well even if the mount is made by and aftermarket company, but still made out of rubber and to the oem specs it could still be a problem. this is why many people use poly mounts